I have just had my 258 completely rebuilt from the crank to the head from the fan to the clutch. I was wondering after the initial break in period. could I switch to synthetic oil? I want this engine to last another 60,000 miles. And since this is it's second rebuild (whoever did the first one did a terrible job, only last 30,000 miles.)I want it to last as long as possible. I realize that I need to run conventional until the rings seat well and everything gets "broke in" but after that would synthetic oil help much? I'm just trying to make her last. Thanks.
corvettes, vipers, and porsches all come with mobil 1 from the factory, that is what i have read everywhere, but i have also read the opposite, that it won't let the engine break in. synthetic protects better than conventional but not that much better. i wouldn't let it worry me.
Foolproof breakin technique (this is right from the text of the former HOT ROD mag.) and I've used it for every car I've ever owned...I don't like to waste time. I've never had unfavorable results from doing this.
Warm motor.....find strech of road that you are pretty much alone on and can achieve around 50-60 mph. If you're in an automatic place in 2nd ....if in a stick place in 3rd. Accellerate at almost full throttle to the upper end of the rpm band....let off gas and coast to the lower end of the rpm band (for that gear) ....repeat as many times as practical. Rings seated.
The techique is called something like "shine 'em up and oil 'em down" which is apparently the action of the cycles of high acceleration on the way up and high vacuum on the coast.
IMHO - 2500 is more than enough miles of normal driving. ..about 10 using the above technique.
Now that I've quit smoking my doctor informs me that I'll die in much better health!!!
Depending on who's talking or which article that you read you will find that everyone has an opinion. However if you dig deep enough and through all of the crap that is out there you will find that after 5K of initial break in you can use synthetics. (Break-ins are usually done with a 5W-40 oil.) They are much better than conventional oils, last longer, have far less friction which is a direct cause of heat therefore running at lower temps. Regular oils are based from "crude" and with extreme heat will try to return to that "state". A "PURE" synthetic does not react in this manner. Lastly cost on one vs. another is almost the same over a 100,000K life span and most people worry about the oils but never think of the filter or filter system. A Wix filter is one of the best and is made by Wix. Before all of you start chiming in just remember that there are less oil filter manufacturers out there than you have fingers on 1 hand and they all buy them and have them stamped or printed with the various names. Filters are measured in Microns, so do your homework there as well. I was a former employee of the Texaco Oil Company so I would have to say that I would have some good overall general knowledge of this topic. Hope this helps you, Ben