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steel TO glass, what to look out for?

372 views 7 replies 4 participants last post by  ducmon900 
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#1 ·
81scrambler, switching from steel tub to glass in my garage,what should i look out for and be aware of so i dont completely make this a chinese fire drill. is there any thing that should be done while i have the tub off? frame stuff? you tell me...thanks.

keepin' it real
 
#3 ·
I just installed a glass tub on a 79 cj-5. Here are a few things to do. I picked up a ground block from home depot. ran a ground from the neg battery to this block which is bolted under the dash. Now i just ran every ground from the dash to this block. Also, check your mounting points. Mine were all rotted away, and I ended up welding new plates on them. If you were playing with the notion of someday doing a body lift, do it now. I used hockey pucks as a 1" lift. Worked out great. Install all new body bushings. Make sure you bolt the fenders on before assembling the heater under the dash. I made this mistake, and had to take it out again to reach the bolts. And just remember, the glass tub is alot thicker than steel, so you will have to go and buy longer bolts for alot of things. Hope this helps

Keith

ITS GOOD ENOUGH /wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif
 
#4 ·
get a large hunk of cardboard and make a template of the whole firewall.. then tape it to the glass one and cut the holes. you'll notice that on the cj-8 the rear bolt that holds the drivers seat in can go all the way through and double as a body mount bushing. nows a good time to replace the clutch.(with the body off) grounding everything is soo easy..run a braided ground cable from the neg. post of the battery to the ignition control module, to the bolt that holds the alternator on, then to the lower nut on the engine mount...also run one from the neg. post to a bolt you run through the firewall.. then ground everything in the dash to that bolt, and everything to the dash. run a ground from the front grill to the braided line by the ignition control module and from the front grill to the frame..

~~Elusive~~
it's sort of still a cj thingy....see it at http://www.jeepgod.net
 
#5 ·
Well, we are changing to a glass tube on our CJ7 RIGHT NOW, we have a 4wd hardware tub. We found you have to grind a little of the piece of the air duct control mechanism to get it to fit in on the passenger side. Also, might as well change to that GM heater blower motor while you got the dam% thing off & are making your own holes (see Off-road tech section). We found that if you measured the tailight/gas tank filler holes from the bottom in the rear vs. origianal, you need to raise it 3/8" on the glass tub 'cause its a bit deeper (check it out, you have a CJ8, we have a CJ7). My best advice is to first measure your original jeep & measure the new glass tub in the same area to see if there are any slight differences. Good luck, it is going well for us so far with our '7.


 
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#6 ·
It's a good time to take a look at all of the brake lines, fuel lines, and wiring harness. Look at the frame and spring hangers real close. If the frame is rusty at all then sand blast it and re-paint it. Check and re-check all measurements especially the clutch, steering, and tranny/x-fer holes. On my tub the thicker fiberglass as well as the body lift changed some of the angles of the steering and clutch linkages. Also, the original metal "hump" cover for the tranny wouldn't fit due to the difference in angle between the floor and firewall. Also a good time to do a tranny or x-fer swap if you are considering it. I swapped in a T-18 about 6 months after swapping the tub and it was a PITA!

The Grim Jeeper!
 
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#7 ·
thanks for the insight. i was in the process of putting in a body lift when i realized that there were only 3 bolts holding my tub on! i am already in the process of welding new plates on. scary thought that is! the more info the better. thanks again!

keepin' it real
 
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