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Winshield Replacement - Rust!

996 views 9 replies 4 participants last post by  gregcs 
G
#1 ·
Hello Folks,

My 89 YJ Wrangler has been leaking around the Windshield so I took it by a Automotive glass dealer and he informed me that I had rust in several large spost in the window frame where the water had been leaking. He said he could remove the windshield, then I could get the body work done, and then he would put a new windshield in. My Question is concering how to repair the rusted areas.

So far it looks like it is mostly surface rust, but it will take some sanding to get it to clean metal. What is the best way to handle this. I am not repainting the whold Jeep by no means so I need to be able to fix this and leave it as unnoticable as possible.

What should I use to clean the rust down to metal? I don't think sand blasting will work without messing everything else up.
Once it get the grooves all cleaned out and the outside lip of the window frame how should I treat/prime/paint those areas?

Thanks in advance!!!! Any opinions or thoughts appreciated.

 
#2 ·
I am sure there are several ways to attack this situation and there will be other posts with ideas since the words Rust and Jeep are married.

You'd want to take a shaving brush style of steel wire rotary brush on a drill to the really bad under gasket areas to knock off as much scale as possable.
Next step is to "kill" the remaining rust using an acid based solution.
There are metal prep solutions for this at any good auto paint store.
Then use a spray can of primer and/or paint that is adveritzed to be able to adhere to existing rust. Por-15, Hammerite and Rustoliem [sp] come to mind.
Actually, with a good prep, the rust should all killed or gone but this is added protection.
With careful masking at the beginning and during the process you will probably be able to seal these hidden rusty spots. Giving the frame a good waxing before you have the glass installed will also help a little to prevent the rust's return.

JAF
http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep
 
#3 ·
My windshield was rusted so bad I folded it down and the hinges stayed where they were /wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif. I found another, but it too had rust holes under the glass, and not wanting to spend $300 for a new one (glass, gasket, frame), I repaired the rust holes. They were rusted through, so I had to weld new metal on and grind it down. When I brought the frame to the shop, the guy looked at me with amazement, it was obvious I had repaired it. I did just like Jaffer mentioned, and it's still holding over 2 years later. No leaks and I've even got a big dent on one side (can't imagine how the glass didn't break). The gasket and sealant (not silicone) will hide a lot of the imperfections, so you won't need to get it exactly perfect. Good luck.

JEEPN
'81 CJ-8 Scrambled!
GM151/SM465/NP205 twinstick/7"Lift/33"TSL's/IHC D44's 4.10's Lock'd
 
G
#4 ·
I'm in the same boat you are in. My windshield frame is rusted through in a few spots. When it rains, the dash of my Jeep is like Niagra Falls. I don't know what your budget is like, but I'm planning on getting a completely new frame (circa $150.00 tax) and having a local bodyshop paint it for me, then I'll replace the winshield w/a new gasket and throw on a new body gasket. I hoping the entire operation will come in for around $300.00. It might not be the cheapest way, but I feel that this is the best possible way to resolve this problem.

Email me if you are interested in some links to order the frame.

Good Luck
ds
93' YJ mods

 
G
#6 ·
Well, If you're the do-it-yourselfer, I'd agree with Jaffer. I would suggest using a primer before ANY paint, though -- not just Rustoleum alone. Rustoleum has a 2 year guarantee for preventing rust -- trust me -- after two years you will be doing the same thing all over again!
A great acid prep is muriatic acid and it's dirt cheap! Always go with a good primer. With paints, you pay for what you get.

 
#8 ·
Muriatic does eat rust quickly.
Unfortunately it must be rinsed off and rust will flash onto the metal almost immediately. So if you use it be sure to have an air hose handy to blow dry the metal as quickly as possable.
I found that using a good paint resperator will trap muratic fumes and I would recommed highly that one is used in addition to the heavy rubber gloves.
For the reasons above, NEVER use muriatic in an enclosed garage.
Not only will it try to kill you with it's fumes, the fumes will attack ANY AND ALL exposed metal in the entire area. If you do this and think you had a rust problem then, you will really have a bad rust problem afterward.
When I use muratic on some rust flashes caused by rain on by newly sandblasted frame, the ensuing rust flash from rinsing the acid off was worse than what the rain did. Plus, the fumes attacked several exposed body panels over the next few days due to the garage being closed up afterwards.
A silver smith once spilled a small bottle of acid based oxidizer in an enclosed area in my shop. Two days later, every steel tool in the room was RED!
My personal favoite metal prep is the one Por-15 makes.
I buy it by the gallon.
My second favorite is the one 3M makes which is commonly available in auto paint stores.
If they are used sparingly they do not need a water rinse and if the area does need rinsing, they have a little zinc in them to help prevent rust flash over.

JAF
http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep
 
G
#9 ·
A number of fellows have offered suggestions how to get down to bare metal. Once your ready to fill the hole(s) in your windshield, I'd like to suggest a filler to use called "Fiber-Strand" which is sold by NAPA. That, along with a "hardner" named "CUZ" also sold by NAPA . It will harden with bonding strength that should impress you. Depending on how much "hardner" you add, will determine the amount of time it takes to set up, so mix accordingly. There is a number of similar products out there. One other thing, sand this stuff before it totally sets up; or you easliy double, if not triple the amount time you'll spend sanding this stuff if you don't.

DrummondCJ
 
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