I need something for the underneath of my tub and I can't decide whether to use herculiner, duplicolor or buy some undercoating. I'm using herculiner for the inside of the tub and the frame has been painted with hammerite. Any suggestions?
Has anybody bought the replacement floor panels? I've bought both front and rears for both sides, and I can't figure them out. Has anybody used these before with any success? Any hints?
/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif We bought the floor pans too, and I have to say that they bore little resemblence to the Jeep in some respects. We ended up replacing the floor in sections, and it worked OK. We made a lot of changes to the floor of the SNOJEEP, so it was not a big deal anyway.....like we changed the profile of the center, and added a level console riser and a different shape floor behind the seats. I can tell you that changine floorpans is not something that you and your buddy do after lunch on Saturday over a couple of beers, and it's all done by six thirty. I'm just glad I have a Millermatic 35 wire feed welder, and a lot of extra moonguys/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gifto help out./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif
CJDave
Quadra-Trac modified by the crack moonguy/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif transfer case team.
The rears don't look too bad but I'm wishing I would have bought some 18ga for the fronts! I had a buddy come over for a second look. I know I'll be picking up some more wire for sure, and probably some grinding wheels. I quess what I don't understand about them is that have all those lips and thier angled, I dont' know if thier supposed to fit over the existing metal or under? I left some metal and cut out the rust.
CJDave is correct...I got the JC Whitney version...sure didn't look like anything in my Jeep. Returned them and got some from Classic Enterprises that were stamped exectly like OEM. I gave the Jeep to a body shop friend of mine to work at his house...took him about 10 hrs over a few days. I can do a lot of things, but those floor pans are not something for the faint of heart to try over a weekend.
/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
JK
O|||O
78CJ5 360
/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif Yep....ours were from Classic as well./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif
CJDave
Quadra-Trac modified by the crack moonguy/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif transfer case team.
my buddy joop got some for his 79 cj and we couldnt weld them they were so thin so we had to pop rivet them they work great he got them from quadratech
Yea I got from quadratech but I imagine they are about the same thing as whitneys. I'll have to check classics out, but then again I burnt the boxes so I quess I'm stuck. They will eventually fit but for sure its not going to be a weekend project. It gives me hope that somebody has made them work! ken
I have replaced the ever so popular driver side floor board. After looking at it rusting away for about 2-3 years I decided it was bad enough. I priced them out at a few places, and even one place in Oregon I belive. JCWhitney had one for $20-30 so I ordered one. I can't believe how it didn't just fit right in, and secure it. I had to bend and pound with a sledge hammer to get it to fit the original Jeep. I secured it with rivets also, welding would have melted the floor or the insert. Just make sure you caulk around the insert, otherwise you will get H2o and rust right back.
Somebody could make a fortune by designing some that would slip in, matching the original contour. I think the little five pound hammer i have will come in handy on this one. I'm going calaulk around the edges and have some undercoating underneath, that should delay the rust a couple of years. ken
Got the floor panels in. Used a sawed off sledge, regular hammer and a ballpeen hammer. Had to use some 18ga to fill in some spots but they didn't come out to bad. Just tack welded as I went and bent to form. later ken
Mine went in piecemeal as well. I used 14 Ga (thick!) and patched here and there. It took me a long time and when I was done, I found the gas pedal didn't fit anymore, so I had to bend it to work. The contours aren't easy, and I had to fabricate most of the seat mounts as well. It's stout now though, been over 2 years of hard wheeling and no rust yet, I also coated them with Dupli-color. They're not pretty, but they won't rust out anytime soon, which is what I was after. Glad to hear yours are going well, mine took countless nights until 2AM, but chipping away at anything is bound to get finished in time.
Well...I took another look under the rubber floormats of my '74 Postal Jeep to see if I'd fall through anytime soon. Not quite yet...but a passenger sitting on the floor or that boat-seat bolted to a cut-to-fit egg crate might go through their side.... But to my relief I realize that the DJ's floors are simply a rectangular piece of sheetmetal with a single 45 degree bend up to the firewall. They weld to the top of a little body-frame member, and the tranny hump is just a box-like structure with all 90 degree bends. You all had me worried for a minute there! Finally- a Jeep I can work on myself! Well...it is still to be seen if I get get the ignition to work. I ordered a distributor for a 1980 258 to to the TFI conversion with. I did the HEI conversion on my 258 in the Wrangler with very positive results so I'm sure I can handle this one as well. BUT...its not 4-wheel-drive...yet
Just bought a DJ-5C! Sliding doors and right-hand drive are cool /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
Some of that woven fiberglass under Rhinolining is working fine on my CJ floorboards.
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