Does anyone know what I can expect as far as driveability going from 2.72 to 4.10 gears. I have a T-176 which is a four speed transmission. I don't think there is that much of a difference my fourth gear and the fifth gear of other Jeeps. I thought I had 3. something gears... I run 33x12.50 BFG's Will I be able to go 65 with these gears???
Hey John,
I just did this. I went from 2.72 to 4.10 with a T-176. I run 32" BFG MT's. I am able to go 65-70 without any problems. You will actually be able to go a little faster because of the 33"s.
I have read about 20 pages of posts and can't seem to find the answer. I am changing gears as previously stated 2.72-->4.10 . I got the gears used from a pretty good used parts place. My question is all the shims and bearings etc. Now is all that important if you are not using new gears, but used gears and all related parts out of a Jeep previously? My new (to me) gears came with the bearings that the guy told me were still good, and the shims, and the crush sleive, in addition to all the same carriers that the gears were used with before. With that said, can't I just put them in my Jeep the same as they were taken out without all the calculations??
FIRST.... take what you got.. REPLACE the bearings.. and crush sleeve.. get some shims.. the old ones will work.. but you MUST shim this.. and it is VERY important.. and no you just cant put these in.. they must be set up.. all gears are different.. and so are all housings.. and carriers.. so they need to be set up and check their tolerances.. this is NOT something you want to do half ass.. my advice to you is to have them proffesionally set up.. should only be like a 100 bucks or so.. and when you call around.. ask about a warranty.. i know the guy at the 4x4 shop here garranties his work.. for 5 years.. so that is something to look at also..
You should expect to pay at least a couple hundred per axle for gear setup. BTW, those 4.10s are going to require a different
carrier, the 2.73s use their own carrier, everything over that uses a different one. If you aren't sure about what you are doing,
just DON'T do it then. Go to Randy's Ring and Pinion web site and read some of Randy's tech articles, you are probably in over
your head.
You should expect to pay at least a couple hundred per axle for gear setup. BTW, those 4.10s are going to require a different
carrier, the 2.73s use their own carrier, everything over that uses a different one. If you aren't sure about what you are doing,
just DON'T do it then. Go to Randy's Ring and Pinion web site and read some of Randy's tech articles, you are probably in over
your head. http://www.ring-pinion.com
The gears came complete with carriers and everything. They are just as you would see them if you unbolted the whole thing are removed it. Like I said they came with everthing, so all I have to do is bolt them in. I was quoted a price of about $300 per axle in CO. I just want to do it since it is not a daily driver. I like to know how things work, that way I can fix them.
Now let me see if I understand the overall process of the shims. The shims on the pinion enable the pinion to contact the ring gear at a specified point right? Therefore you install the pinion (without the yoke I guess) and bolt in the gears to see where they contact each other right? There is some king of gear marker that you put on the rings gear to make a pattern on the pinion to rign gear engagement, and is that how you know whether to add or subtract shims? Like I said all I have to do to install the 4.10 gears is install the pinion and then bolt in the gear, I am not taking the ring gear off or putting it on. It's already attached. Let me know if this is right, I have been reading all of the links, and think I have it figured out... Lastly what do you measure on the pinion gear that uses the dial gauge? Is it how much play the pinion has or what??
you were just plain WRONG if you thought changing gears was easy to do. there are people that make very good money by setting up gears because it is an ART. Every time i set up a set, i do it at least 5 times and it takes at least a day each. then i worry about them, then i break them in... then i hammer them.. i havent had a set break that i put in, but i really take my time setting them up.. if you change the axle housing, you will have to change the shims, get a book on it, and read up. keep reading on the search pages about setting up gears
*READ and MEMORIZE* all instructions, ask questions, etc. or you will be sorry.
I just finished my first swap on my AMC20 and everything went well. Yet it involved meticulous accuracy and *lots* of patience.
I doubt you can just throw the used carrier and pinion into another housing and everything will be fine. Do you even recall exactly where the old shims go? You will need a dial indicator and gear compound and a reference to check your gear patterns.
TAKE YOUR TIME if you're going to do this yourself.
Check around some more, it's also $100 per axle up here in Maine.
DON'T do this unless you're committed to doing a good job, which takes a lot of time, some money for tools, and patience. It's easy enough to pay someone else up here, and after watching them set up the gears, I know I'd be in over my head trying it. The answer to your question is no, you can't just swap everything from one axle to another. No 2 axles are the same, each has tiny variances that must be accounted for, hence the dial indicator and gear compound. An improperly set up axle will chew itself in just a few hundred miles, a properly set axle will last for a long time (235,000 miles on my Scout II D44's with VERY little wear). BTW, the ring gear can be removed from the carrier, I had to remove mine to put the lockright in (common on 4.10's), since it bolts back in to the same spot, it won't screw up the alignment.
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