Replacing U-Joints On a Model 30......Help - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 06-05-2001, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
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Replacing U-Joints On a Model 30......Help

I am diving into my first Model 30 u-joint replacement. I am headed into un-chartered waters (a.k.a. newbie on this one) and I could really use your help. I have pulled of the original hubs, but that is far as I have gone. (1) What tools do I need other than the spindle nut socket to get both the drivers and passenger side axle shafts out? (2) What bearings and seals should I replace while I am into this Model 30 front axle? This is a 85 CJ. (3) What type of grease should I use to repack bearings? (4) Is there anyway to make the hubs turn easier? (5) How much grease goes inside just the hub & lockout? (6) Is there suppose to be a gasket between the hub and lockout? (7) Which non-greaseable u-joints are the best replacement for this stock axle? Thanks!

85 CJ8 Undergoing Frame-up Modifications w/4.0 standing by for transplant w/T176/Dana300 - Lookin for aluminum or chrome 15x8 spoke wheels to fit CJ.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 06-06-2001, 12:07 AM
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Re: Replacing U-Joints On a Model 30......Help

No special tools needed except the spindle nut socket. Which if i'm not mistaken, is 1 1/8". As far as what to replace, I would replace both wheel bearings with only timken bearings. Use a high quality grease. If you can get spicer ujoints, then that's the way I would go. There is no gasket between the hub and the lock, but I always put a bead of rtv gasket sealer between the two, just to keep some water out. And as far as how much grease to use, I use the simple principle of, the more grease, the less water that can get in. On bit advice, when trying to get the spindle off, I found that if you place a block of wood on it and start pounding, it will come off easier. You might also want to soak it in some kind of penetrating lube. Hope this helps

Keith

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 06-06-2001, 01:03 AM
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Re: Replacing U-Joints On a Model 30......Help

Actually that spindle nut socket is 2 3/32". Make sure that the grease you use is meant to be used with disc brakes. Don't use grease from a grease gun as most isn't meant for the high temps you see with discs. Like Keith said the spindles can be tricky to get off. Soaking the back face that contacts the knuckle with penetrating oil (not WD40) is a good idea. Also put some anti-sieze on that face when you re-install the spindles.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 06-06-2001, 01:14 AM
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Re: Replacing U-Joints On a Model 30......Help

What the hell was I thinking with that socket???? I think that's the size for the pinion nut. Major brain farts these days. LOL

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 06-06-2001, 06:48 AM
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Re: Replacing U-Joints On a Model 30......Help

2 3/32 are you sure? damn i haven't done that job yet but i know i don't have that big a socket!

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 06-06-2001, 07:07 AM
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Re: Replacing U-Joints On a Model 30......Help

OK, here goes.

1) Screwdrivers, hammers, block of wood, bearing packer, towels, torque wrench, seal puller if you're replacing seals, brass punch.

2) I would replace the bearings inside the hub (not the lockout hub, but the large hub over the spindle), and use a quality bearing and seal, like SKF or Timken.

3) Use only quality grease. I prefer Mobil-1 to anything else out there, it costs a little more, but won't break the bank and it's worth it. A bearing packer is invaluable. Get the plastic one (about $7) and not the metal one as the plastic will conform to the bearing better so you'll get a better (more even) pack. Don't overtighten though as I have seen the plastic ones break. I have both and would recommend the plastic one.

4) Yes, clean everything out well and see #5.

5) DO NOT overpack the hubs with grease. This is a common problem people run into when rebuilding hubs. There is no reason the hub must be filled with grease. If water is leaking in, put a little more RTV on it, but don't add more grease. The grease becomes old and cakes up, making the hub harder to turn, and will cause it not to return to the 2WD position as well. Use a light coating of grease, I use a little grease (just a light application), then put some ATF in there and put the hub in place. I have done this for 17 years with no problems on my D44 with over 235,000 miles on it. The ATF won't harden and the hubs will always turn freely and work properly. The ATF is a trick I got from an old mechanic, and is used primarily for cold climates that will render most greases to concrete (also another case for Mobil-1).

If you don't believe me on the grease, this is from M.R. 252, 1984-1986 Jeep Technical Service Manual, under "Front Axle - Lubrication".

<font color=blue>When servicing the front drive hubs, apply a light coating of chassis lubricant to the internal components. Do not pack the hubs full of lubricant; apply a light coating only.</font color=blue>

6) Yes, there is supposed to be a gasket that goes there, but I have used RTV for many years. Just apply a small bead. If you do decide to use a gasket, rub grease all over the gasket before you apply it. The grease will make the gasket compress uniformly when you install the hub and ensure you can take it off easy, in most cases it can be re-used as well, although it may not seal well after the first time.

7) The best U-joints out there are genuine Spicer, no doubt about it.

If you need any other info, let me know, I have the manual and a scanner.

And yes, it is 2 and 3/32" on the socket, they're about $10 from most stores, or you can often borrow one for free from them as well.

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 06-06-2001, 07:28 AM
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Re: Replacing U-Joints On a Model 30......Help

The only thing that i would recommend is use synthenic grease. I use vavoline syntec. Or ruyal purple grease. The royal purple is big dollars so i have been using the vavoline. With the synthenic you dont have to worry about it gunking up and turning hard. It also works it way into the pours of the metal and stay there. I have been using it on the cj since i bought it and when you take something apart it looks like the day it went in. Also replace the spindle bearing I dont remember anyone telling you that. They get really nasty. I stuff my hubs and lockouts with grease so water cant get in. I have never had water in the hubs and i dont seal the lockout to the hub. If your spindles havent been off in a long time you may need a puller. But try smacking with a piece of would and a hammer. Good luck

Can someone please bring me a hammer my 33's just ate my fender again. Damn i need more lift.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 06-06-2001, 08:27 AM
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Re: Replacing U-Joints On a Model 30......Help

You guy's covered everything execept ....the wounds. Buy a box of bandaids and some antiseptic.... and when you're done throw it in you're Jeep first aid kit.

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 06-06-2001, 08:52 AM
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Re: Replacing U-Joints On a Model 30......Help

Wounds?? Nah.... Working on Jeeps is a piece of cake.. Maybe the odd bruise... [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img] Hey, how about some good suntan lotion?

Hooch

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 06-06-2001, 12:51 PM
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Re: Replacing U-Joints On a Model 30......Help

An effective tool for breaking loose the front hub flange is a dead-blow hammer. If you don't know what it is, it has a soft face like a mallet, but it's hollow and has lead shot inside. When you use it, the lead shot keeps the hammer from bouncing off the struck surface. It's the most effective tool I've found for breaking loose that stubborn hub flange.

I bought mine at Harbor Freight tools for about $13. It's money well spent.

By the way, I use nothing but synthetic grease anywhere on my Jeep. I use a grease gun and pack the front hubs with as much as I can get in there. Unlike petroleum-based grease, synthetic will not mix with water and the hubs can't generate enough heat from friction to break it down.

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