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Jeep-Short Wheelbase All discussion of short wheelbase Jeeps: CJ, TJ, YJ and JK

 
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 06-04-2001, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
 
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It\'s official...I screwed up.

I should have listened to you guys...I figured with the lift and the shortening of the cradle I wouldn't have clearance problems with my engine swap. I was WRONG. My front pinion is about 2" from the cradle and now I have to reverse engineer it and try to make it fit. So it's off to the welder and Hopefully this thing will fire soon.

Oh H8...Your slave cylinder is off of what year truck(my headers don't clear the 86 slave cylinder by much and it's plastic so I dont want to melt it). Also where does you y-pipe come together(under motor,behind transfer or what)?

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 06-04-2001, 01:14 PM
 
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Re: It\'s official...I screwed up.

86 F150 was the one I went with. It is close to the headers, but have not had a problem with it. The hydraulic hose though, was a different story. I melted it down, on my first 80 mph run down the highway on a 100 degree day, went to get off the highway and my clutch pedal just went the floor. I had to use some clutchles shifting to get home, which is no easy task with a fresh NP435. I braised the hydraulic ends to steel AN4 fittings(I used a 90 degree end at the slave to allow it to get away from the header without a sweeping turn) and ran a braided stainless line between the master and slave. I used heat shielding at the lower portion where it ran next to the headers. I have had no problems since.
Here is a pic of the upper fitting, and master cylinder.
.
Here is a pic from the bottomm looking up at the slave cylinder. You can see the headers and collector, location in this photo, and also the 90 degree fitting that I braised to attach the braided stailess hose.


Jeff
89 YJ
Wow, you can get a nice tan on your arms, from welding with no shirt on.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 06-04-2001, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: It\'s official...I screwed up.

So I guess I'm gonna have to call Z&M and get the adapter you used to move my slave closer to the bell(Yours apears to be in front of the bell while mine is to the side). The braided line was a given, I just had to get around to picking up some line.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 06-04-2001, 01:36 PM
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Re: It\'s official...I screwed up.

What cradle are you speaking of, if its the one the motor sit in mine was close, but my 4" lift springs are real stiff and it doesn't move much I left it right there. I just finished a 5.0L swap, I didn't have the room for a "y" pipe I stuffed dual exhaust up under there between the frame rails, 2-six cylinder mufflers and with the cats welded right to the inlet side on the mufflers, have tailpipes that exit in each rear corner of my rig, only been roadable for a week, everyone that has seen it, swears its a factory install, or by some super custom shop, nope, its a birdman one of a kind install, hooked all the smog stuff backup too, probably pass in all 50 states, cant' post pic's no camera and or scanner, one thing tho, it sure runs sweet in front of the NV4500/atlas combo. Still been taking it thru some tests, Tom woods made my shafts, gave me a good deal too, my rear shaft is only 19" long, fit, and ride are real smooth. You'll get there, take your time, been fooling with mine since last august, only thing left to check is fuel pressure and I have to make my skid plate, otherwise its a done deal and I'm extremely happy with the results. Hope this helps out.

Jeff,
I had my headers jet-coated that cuts down on the underhood heat and they coat them inside and out for better flow, they also have a lifetime guarantee against corrosion and they will not turn blue, pretty trick set-up they have, fast turnaround too. Hope this helps out.


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post #5 of (permalink) Old 06-04-2001, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: It\'s official...I screwed up.

The rear shaft on mine worked out to 22.5" running lenght with the T18/NP205 which was great. I have 4.5" of lift but 1" is body and 1" is shackle so my 2.5" OME springs flex a lot. The other thing is I set the motor kind of far forward in the jeep(don't know if my AA cradle is the same as the one you used)for driveshafts sake. I looked the mounts over and figured I can reinforce them so I don't need the center part and I can just cut it out. My main concern is the clutch right now since I figured I might have to go to dual exhaust. Duals on my truck might not be as simple though since I have the odd ball optional 20 gallon tank. It takes up quite a bit of room under the back of the jeep. If my rig were as built as H8s I would probably just go with a fuel cell for clearance, but I have no TopTruck dreams yet. Thanks for the opinions and suggestions, hopefully it will fire up this weekend(got my fingers crossed).


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post #6 of (permalink) Old 06-04-2001, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: It\'s official...I screwed up.

Allright...I just got off of the phone with Z&M and they said $125 for the adapter and $5 for the longer rod I also called the local exhaust shop and got a price of $300(I gotta supply the cats for that price) for duals and they guaranty that they can run then up tight to the floor. All that will be left is making this [email protected] cradle work.

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 06-04-2001, 08:25 PM
 
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Re: It\'s official...I screwed up.

Thanks Bird,
I am planning on installing some BBK Ceramic Coated Headers. The temperature of the engine never get above 200, but the under hood temps get pretty hot. Im planning on installing a scoop and some louvers and vents.
Jimmy,
I am installing a 36 gallon fuel cell as soon as i get to my next job site. I need the fuel cell, to clear my new rear suspension which will push my rear axle back another 6", for a 102" wheel base. It will be a very simple, but sweet set up, but its top secret right now.

Jeff
89 YJ
Wow, you can get a nice tan on your arms, from welding with no shirt on.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 06-04-2001, 09:46 PM
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Re: It\'s official...I screwed up.

Just wanted to mention, that HEDMAN is now selling "shorty" style headers for Falcon/Comet applications. These would have been sweet if they were available when I was doing my swap. I'm not sure they will fit, but I tried everything else when I was doing my swap. Ended up using F100 manifolds. I think they would clear your slave cylinder a lot better. I guess I'll size them up when my exhaust rusts out.

DREW
IN2DEEP <font color=red>78 CJ5</font color=red> <font color=blue>302 FORD </font color=blue> [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] <font color=red> T176/D300 REAR ARB 35" BFGS </font color=red>
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