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Jeep-Short Wheelbase All discussion of short wheelbase Jeeps: CJ, TJ, YJ and JK

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post #1 of (permalink) Old 04-27-2000, 05:15 PM
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Two posts in one

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img] I was wondering if anyone knew if someone other than Mickey Thompson, Cepek, or Interco made a 33x14.50R15 I am looking for some cheap 33x14.50, as cheap as they come. I have owned SS, Mickey, etc and I do not see justifying another 1200 for tires that are going to see mostly on street driving in my daily driver.
Secondly, what are some of the causes of a mushy brake pedal. The pedal feels as though it is not putting the pressure to the brakes. I checked the master cylinder and the rear reservoir is cloudy and dark, bad I know. I have new wheel cylinders on all wheels. The MC is new, and the booster is from an 85 CJ. I have 2 drums out of spec, I will order new ones within the next few weeks. I am going to Midas for a free inspection tomorrow. I think that maybe a brake line is going bad, the rubber ones. If so who makes the BEST extended brake lines, Stainless preferably. I would like some input as to what would cause the cloudy fluid. The fluid is also new, about 6 months old, fully synthetic.
THANX

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img] 1976 CJ-7,CHEVY 350, 33'S, 3" LIFT, THAT COVERS MOST OF THE MAJOR STUFF [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img]
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 04-27-2000, 06:06 PM
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1/2 an answer in two

Well I'll try to help you on both points.
Here are the tires in that size and their price. I'm taking all of these from 4 wheel parts wholesalers.
Interco SSR-197.95
Interco Radial TSL (33x15.5)-177.95
MT Baja Belted HP-195.95
MT Baja Belted-195.95
That's about it and none are very cheap.

About the brakes, if it is the lines, ProComps are pretty good. My friend has him on his Toyota and they firmed up his pedal a bit. I have never seen any, but It looks like Skyajacker's are pretty good. I think they're coated in epoxy or something.

Ed

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 04-27-2000, 06:11 PM
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Re: Two posts in one

mmm... you probably shouldnt have gone with synthectic.. you cant mix that and the old stuff.. any little bit of the old fluid left.. well.. will collect water like its cool.. and your synthectic is useless.. should stick with dot 4,
dot 5 is for like race or something that is not going to see alot of driving.. meaning it will get stored alot.. and you dont want any water in there. but before just putting in dot 5 you need to completely clean and dry you old system.. or go all new.. lines and all.
as for the tires i dont know of any besides them that make them much cheaper.. and they will never last long anyways.. they are bias ply.. soft rubber.. you want something that will last then you need a radial tire.. swampers come in that, but are really big bucks.. but they will last atleast twice as long as the others.. like the old saying goes.. you get what you pay for..


~~Elusive~~
it's sort of still a cj thingy....
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 04-27-2000, 06:36 PM
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Re: Two posts in one

Dick Cypek is in Bankruptcy so forget getting tires from him.

As for the MC....you will most likely have to do a complete flush of your system. Brake fluid absorbs any moisture...so everytime you poped the lid on the MC, it sucked up any moisture in the air. Your jeep is 26 years old....I would imagine there is a lot of rust in the lines....the metal lines themselves should be ok....and so should the rubber unless you can see cracking in the rubber. The soft peddle is either air in the system or fluid leaking past one of the seals. If it is a leak the break peddle will slowly go down. It would take a really bad rubber break line to make it feel mushy. Purge your system, refill and then bleed them real well.

John......southern CA
84CJ7, 3"lift, 32"BFG, 4.10's, ARB Locker, Solid Axle's, Durabak
post #5 of (permalink) Old 04-28-2000, 02:19 AM
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Re: Two posts in one

Did not know that Cepek is filing chapter 11?! Huh.
When I changed the fluid I bled the master cylinder dry. I drained each wheel and then put new fluid in. I drained the fluid out until I saw none of the old fluid in the lines. The old fluid was darker than the new fluid. I used about 8-10 of the normal size brake fluid bottles, at least. It is only the rear reservoir, spelling, that is cloudy. It might have some of the old fluid left in the system, do not know. I just know that I tried my hardest to empty the whole thing out. It took me a few days of bleeding the system to get the fluid back into the lines. I will pay someone to do it the next time. I guess that I will know what is going on tomorrow when I have it checked out at Midas. THANX for all your help

As far as Bias Ply vs. Radial, I had, still have, a set of MT Baja Belted HP tires with 50,000 miles on them and they still have 14/32 tread depth. Most miles were on pavement. My new SSR tires, same size/same vehicle, started wearing BAD after only 700 miles. I learned that you get what you pay for. I bought the stickiest new set of rubber on the market and their more "streetable" design just plain sucks for the street. Look good, wear awful.
That is why I will not pay $212 mounted for another set of Swampers ever again. Once the jeep is a weekend warrior I might, but not if there is more than 10% on street driving.
I also do not think that the extra 2 months of service I might squeeze out of a BFG MT vs. a General MT is worth another $25 per tire. Sure you might get another 5000 miles out of them, but is it really worth another $125. I can buy another General MT for $125 installed!
Now think about the mileage you get out of a Swamper, any swamper, that sees on road driving. That I would say is highly unjustified.
How many times do you go to a trail and see someone doing something amazing in a nearly stock Jeep with some P.O.S. tires.
Now, ask yourself what they have that you don't have. I think that a tire can only make up for so much, the driver must do all the work, not the tire. I am not saying that anyone on this web-site can not drive circles around me. I am just saying that the driver is the key to success, not a tire. The driver, in this case, is also the keeper of the Wallet, and he is a stingy S.O.B.
Good Night and Happy Wheelin

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img] 1976 CJ-7,CHEVY 350, 33'S, 3" LIFT, THAT COVERS MOST OF THE MAJOR STUFF [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img]
post #6 of (permalink) Old 04-28-2000, 10:18 AM
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Re: Two posts in one

BF Goodrich makes an all-terrain in LT325/60R-15, it's a little smaller than 33X14.50 but might work for you.

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 04-28-2000, 10:53 AM
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Re: Two posts in one-tires

To each his own, but I have to dissagree with you about the tires making a difference. Sure the driver is the key, in any vehicle, but the type of tires DO make a difference as to what you can grip when on the trail! It's a combination of man and machine. And there's many a time I pulled out a similar Jeep with lesser tires (than my BFG MT's) that had nothing to do with the driver, just a matter of traction.

Keep on Jeepin'
Scott
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 04-28-2000, 01:03 PM
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Re: Two posts in one

<font color=purple>325/60R15 is basically a 31X12.50.</font color=purple>

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 04-28-2000, 01:03 PM
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Re: Two posts in one

<font color=purple>325/60R15 is basically a 31X12.50.</font color=purple>

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 04-28-2000, 01:34 PM
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Re: Two posts in one-tires

<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr>

To each his own, but I have to dissagree with you about the tires making a difference. Sure the driver is the key, in any vehicle, but the type of tires DO make a difference as to what you can grip when on the trail! It's a combination of man and machine. And there's many a time I pulled out a similar Jeep with lesser tires (than my BFG MT's) that had nothing to do with the driver, just a matter of traction.

Keep on Jeepin'
Scott


<hr></blockquote>

How true! The president of our jeep club came down to the midcoast once and left his Swampers at home due to the 100 mile journey. He slapped on a set of 33's (same size), but they were a no-name tire with OK traction, more designed for road than off-road. He aired down as usual and commenced the trail. Boy did it suck. He was swearing the whole day at his tires, and you could see what a bad time he was having. He was locked front and rear, and I was able to go more places with my Swampers and open diffs. He's a much better driver than I am, or probably ever will be, so that day the tires made all the difference.

We also have a friend that switched from 33" Mud Kings to 33" BFG Mud Terrains (similar looking tread and both made by BFG) and what a difference. He figured he'd save a few $$ and buy the cheaper tire, but he was so disappointed he got rid of them. Won't run anything else now.

I run 31" Riken Raiders (bought them cheap and 1/2 worn) on the road to get to the wheeling spots. I keep the 33" Swampers in the bed and change them at the site (along with dropping the top and doors). I know Swampers don't wear well on the road, especially locked, so I compromise. Sure, it might take me a little more time, but since I have the room, what the heck.

For the TJ we use BFG Muds. They're a great all around tire, good traction off-road and on-road, and wearbility as well. The BFG AT's are OK, but not nearly as good off-road. I think the AT's do better in the snow though. For a tire that does everything, the BFG Mud is the only tire to get, IMHO of course!

You get what you pay for in a tire. I've learned my lesson the hard way more than once thinking I was smarter than I really was. Each tire also has a specific purpose. I've seen 33" Boggers worn bald at 5K due to road use ("But they look cool, man"), and new Firestone's suck off-road, resulting in the ice-skating effect ("but they say Mud and Snow on them"). Tires are definitly not a place to skimp.

JEEPN
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GM151/SM465/NP205 twinstick/7"Lift/33"TSL's/IHC D44's 4.10's Lock'd
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