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post #1 of (permalink) Old 05-16-2001, 05:43 PM
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lifter adjustment

i need to adjust my lifters, what is the correct way to get it right. thanks again

77 cj5 sorta, V8, 4"lift, 33's, lotsa miss'n metal
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 05-16-2001, 05:48 PM
sas87yj
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Re: lifter adjustment

if they are hydraulic lifters i don't think you can adjust them like solid lifters. do you have a noisy lifter?

steve

post #3 of (permalink) Old 05-16-2001, 06:05 PM
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Re: lifter adjustment

Here is how I remember adjusting the lifters on a small block chevy. It has been a few years, so if anyone see's a mistake, point it out. I have a small block valve cover with the top cut out so I can get to the nuts, but they do make a clip that attaches to the rocker arm to limit the oil spray. The engine has to be running. Back the nut off until you start to hear a tap, and then run it back down until it is quiet, and give it one half turn more. Go through one rocker at a time until you are all the way through. I am not sure on the 1/2 turn for an AMC, but as I recall that is what it is for a small block Chevy. Have extra oil on hand (since it will be everywhere), and it also helps if you have someone handy with a rag to limit the amount of oil on the exhaust manifolds. This is for hydraulic lifters only. If you have solid lifters you have to set a clearance between the rocker and the top of the valve. The clearances will vary depending on the model of engine and modifications.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 05-17-2001, 12:19 AM
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Re: lifter adjustment

i have a noisy lifter for sure. i am not sure if i have hyd. or solid lifters. i am a novice mechanic, but i want to do all the work myself- only one way to learn.
how will i tell what style lifters i have. my manual doesnt say a bit. thankfull for the help.

77 cj5 sorta, V8, 4"lift, 33's, lotsa miss'n metal
post #5 of (permalink) Old 05-17-2001, 06:36 AM
 
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Re: lifter adjustment

if its a stock amcV8 no lifter adjumstment, only tihten to spec during a rebuild.

its noisy its collapsed or the rocker/pushrod has loostened or come apart.


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post #6 of (permalink) Old 05-17-2001, 12:29 PM
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Re: lifter adjustment

ok, it is the 304, but has been rebuilt. what should i be looking for to correctly diagnose the noise, it isn't horribly loud but it is a definite-tap, tap, tap, tap....
i have been told by a few "mechanics" that it is my lifters??? and one said that the valves needed to be adjusted to sooth the beast??
i am bad (or good) about questioning peoples "ears for a motor". i know a few really good mechanics that can definitely give me posotive feedback, but of course they are extremely busy people.

77 cj5 sorta, V8, 4"lift, 33's, lotsa miss'n metal
post #7 of (permalink) Old 05-17-2001, 01:31 PM
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Re: lifter adjustment

If you really want to see if it is lifter noise, pull a valve cover while it is running and listen to the lifters. I have a low tech stethescope[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif[/img] (long screwdriver) that I will put the end of onto suspect parts and listen with my ear on the end of the handle. Just be sure not to let the screwdriver slip onto the rocker arm while it is against your ear[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]. You can also get cheap mechanics stethescopes from Harbor Freigt and such places (slightly more high tech than the screwdriver). I am sure there are better ways to diagnose lifters, but that is the way I have always done it.

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 05-17-2001, 03:29 PM
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Re: lifter adjustment

thanks ,
onel ast thing, well 2 really. I have read a lot of your posts on "bad oiling" in the amc motors. the "noisy lifters" are on the passenger side of the motor. could the "loud side" be due to the pour oiling?
(how do you know if you have solid or hydr. lifters?)

77 cj5 sorta, V8, 4"lift, 33's, lotsa miss'n metal
post #9 of (permalink) Old 05-17-2001, 03:54 PM
 
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Re: lifter adjustment

Make sure your not hearing a slight exhaust leak, ive more than a few of those misdiagnosed as lifter problems, go up and down each valve cover ( over each rocker arm) with a brook stick held to your ear while the engine is running/tapping, and you SHOULD be able to pin down which is the culprit.

when you have found teh offender, pull the valve cover off and see if the rocker arm to pushrod mate up is good, then check the nut to make sire its torqued properly

if thats no help and it isnt an exhaust leak then its time to try some voodoo to free up teh sticky lifter, MAYBE you can get it to work again withgout having to replace them



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post #10 of (permalink) Old 05-17-2001, 04:59 PM
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Re: lifter adjustment

Hi,
Most of the vehicles I have owned have had hydraulic lifters, and most of them have made noise at one time or another, and my voodoo has always worked.

Step 1:
Get a pint or quart of ATF (Automatic transmission fluid), drain that much oil out of the crankcase and add the ATF, and drive around for at least 10 miles, the faster the better. The detergent in the ATF really loosens things up well. It works for stuck oil rings sometimes, too.

Step 1a:
Get the best quality oil filter you can find. This can make all the differance. Good oil filters flow better and you will have a few pounds better oil pressure to the lifters. That is good.

Step 2:
Change the oil and use the good stuff. Some brands will make less noise than others. I like to use Valvoline Syntec in my Miata. It is a 4 valve per cylinder DOHC engine with hydraulic lifters and is famous for being noisy when it is cold or dirty because the engine has a 7k redline and the lifters have to stay pumped up. That means the oil passages are small. I use a Purolator filter that is for a Mazda 626. It is bigger but fits the same base.

Use the oil weight recommended for your engine, since that is what the lifters were designed for. Heavy oil will make the lifters noisy.

Step 3:
Change the oil when it gets dirty. This could be anywhere from 100 miles to 5000 miles depending on what kind of driving you do. Take a paper towel and put a dab of oil on it with the dipstick. Let it soak in for a while. Put a dab of new oil on another paper towel. After a few minutes, look at the pattern. There will be some concentric rings of differant shades. Compare the used oil with the new oil. You will see a fair amount of crud on the used oil side. If the differance is big between the used oil and new oil, change it. It's hard to describe exactly what you are looking for, but you will see black sludge on the towel in the used oil, and when there is a lot of it that is bad.

Step 4:
I run the ATF through about every 15k miles. 131k miles on my Miata, and nary a problem. I got 212k out of a Ford Ranger I had and 141k out of another Ranger that I sold with no problems.
Regards,
Josiah

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