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post #1 of (permalink) Old 05-13-2001, 10:25 AM
Frank360
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Studies on Oil filters...

I found good stuff about oil filters... A couple of studies by SAE..

"The Finnish car magazine "Tuulilasi" compared oil filters in its latest
issue. The filters tested were all for Toyota Corolla with A-series engine.

Results in short:

Champion C138 Very good
Clean DO 851 Very good (with size reservations)
Biltema 502077 Good (with size reservations)
Purolator Micronic Good
Teho OK 174 Good (with reservations)
Fram PH 4967 Satisfactory
Motorcraft EFL391 Satisfactory
Mann W68/80 Passable
M-Filter MH 3347 Passable
Toyota 90915-10001 Inferior
Vic C-110 Inferior

"Clean" filter was was wider than others, and "Biltema" longer.


What did they test?

1) Filtration

Filters were tested with a test equipment conforming to standard ISO 4572.
The test oil was recirculated through the filter, and dirt was continuously
added to it. The test dirt consisted of particles smaller than 200 micrometers.
I've picked the figures below from the graphs on the magazine. 15 mg of
dirt was added to each liter of oil passed through the system. Oil flow
rate was 25 liters per minute.

After 5 minutes, % of each particle size [micrometers] filtered:
40 30 20 10

Champion 98 91 64 19
Clean 99 91 66 16
Biltema 99 91 62 16
Purolator 97 86 60 11
Teho 96 89 61 17
Fram 98 87 55 9
Motorcraft 99 90 61 12
Mann 98 88 56 10
M-Filter 96 85 50 10
Toyota 88 77 31 0
Vic 87 71 39 4

After 10 minutes, % of each particle size [micrometers] filtered:
40 30 20 10

Champion 97 90 63 18
Clean 97 91 62 13
Biltema 95 88 56 11
Purolator 97 82 52 9
Teho 98 86 56 15
Fram 97 85 51 5
Motorcraft 97 92 62 16
Mann 96 83 50 7
M-Filter 94 80 47 9
Toyota 81 60 25 1
Vic 81 68 39 4


time until blocked (bypass valve opens):

Champion 16-18 min
Clean 21-23 min
Biltema 29-33 min
Purolator 22-26 min
Teho 16-18 min
Fram 22-26 min
Motorcraft 13-15 min
Mann 25-27 min
M-Filter 19-27 min
Toyota 16-23 min
Vic 20-20 min



2) Anti-drainback valve operation

All except Vic held the oil.

You can test this yourself, if you want. Find a bolt that fits on the
thread in the filter, fill the filter with oil, and with the bolt
screwed in, turn the filter to its side, like it is on the engine
block. Does it leak?

3) Bypass valve operation

Some filters leaked slightly through the bypass valve early before
the filter elements were blocked, but at worst only 22ml/min.
Compare that to the 25000ml/min total flow in the test, and you
see that it is totally insignificant.


Make your own conclusions. Before this I thought Toyota filters
would be the best one could get (even though I've used Teho myself
because it's 5 times cheaper)."



A Jeep is a Jeep..
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 05-13-2001, 10:28 AM
Frank360
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Re: Studies on Oil filters...

Second one..[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

SAE Document Number: J1858

Date Published: June, 1988

Title: Full Flow Lubricating Oil Filters

Multipass Method for evaluating filtration Performance

Issuing Committee: Filter Test Methods Standards Committee

Scope:

This standard establishes a multipass filtration performance test with continuous contaminant injection for lubricating oil filter elements. It also includes a procedure for determining the contaminant capacity, particulate removal characteristics, and pressure loss. It also includes a test currently applicable to lubricating oil filter elements which exhibit a 10 um filtration ratio of less than 75 and a rated flow between 4 and 600 L/min. This standard provides a test procedure which yields reproducible test data for evaluating the filtration performance of a lubricating oil filter element.

Here are the filters results:

Mobil 1: Single pass efficiency (SAE J806) of 98% vs. an 85% average for conventional filters. * Multiple pass efficiency (SAE J806) of 95% vs. an 80% average for conventional filters.

Pure One: Single Pass Test efficiency for the PureONE filter is 99.7%. Pure One captures 96% of all contaminants as measured by the Society of Automotive Engineers' (SAE) #J806 Multiple Pass Test. *

An article that I read in Grassroots Motorsports several years ago stated that the Wix filter had ~495 sq. in. of filter media, the regular Purolator had ~ 450 sq. in. and the Fram had ~200 sq. in. Needless to say, I haven't used a Fram on anything since. They're cheap, but you get what you pay for. I used Wix and Purolator for a long time but now use Pure One filters on all my vehicles. The filter number on my 1500 is PL10017, if you're interested

Here's an update on filter numbers for the Spit that was posted on 7/23/99 by Peter S

AC-Delco PF-53 (will work on all models of Spit.), PF-13 - requires an adapter
Carquest 85084 (said to be a Wix product)
Castrol PH922A (all Fram numbers should be same on Castrol filters)
Champion D102 (though not recommended)
Crossland 573, 595
Fram PH2825, PH922A, PH966B, PH16 -may be too large for later 1500's w/air pump
Fram PH8A (large can) using the oil filter adapter from MkI 1147 engines, (or non airpump 1500's?)
Motorcraft FL-2005, FL-1 (large- non-Air pump Spits only)
NAPA 551312 , Gold-1521, Gold 1374
Purolator #L10017, PER-1
UNIPART GFE150, GFE119
WIX 51084




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post #3 of (permalink) Old 05-13-2001, 11:13 AM
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Re: Studies on Oil filters...

Because a filter may filter smaller particles does not make it better for your engine. What size particles and other corrosives in your oil is damaging to the engine is more important.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 05-13-2001, 12:01 PM
Frank360
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Re: Studies on Oil filters...

Here's a nice piece on oil specs..

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 05-13-2001, 02:22 PM
Frank360
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Re: Studies on Oil filters...

A piece I caught on FRAM filters..

"Russell,
I obtained great satisfaction from reading your oil filter survey.

I worked for two years as the oil-filter production line engineer in
an Allied-Signal FRAM facility and I can confirm every bad thing you
have said about FRAM automotive filters. That's from the horse's
mouth, as it were.

I'm also a quality engineer and can confirm that FRAM applies no
quality control whatsoever to any of the characteristics for which we
buy oil filters. I frequently saw filter designs which were barely
capable of meeting J806. Many of FRAM's designs will block and go to
bypass after trying to filter very little contamination. There were
often leakage paths at the paper end discs when these were not
properly centered on the elements. Some designs had the pleats so
tightly packed against the center tube that they would block off in no
time. I had discovered that the FRAM HP1 that I had been buying for
about $20 Cdn was EXACTLY the same as a PH8 inside - the only
difference being a heavier can - no advantages in flow capacity. The
paper filtration media was of apparently poor quality and the process
of curing the paper resin was very inconsistent - elements would range
from visibly burnt to white. FRAM's marketers admitted that there was
just about no way the public could ever prove that an oil filter
contributed, or did not prevent, engine damage. The only thing FRAM
tested for was can burst strength. Another problem that they have from
time to time is in threading the filter base - often there are strands
of metal left behind on a poorly formed thread.

I have not used a FRAM filter since I started working there. Their
claims are entirely and completely marketing bull****.

If people really want to protect their engines, a good air filter is
vital (which excludes FRAM from that list as well) and a combination
of one depth and one full-flow hydraulic filter, together in parallel,
will do the job of filtration to perfection.

Thanks for doing a great job in trying to get the truth out! You can
quote me anytime. "


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post #6 of (permalink) Old 09-10-2009, 09:15 PM
ema
 
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I always thought mann oil filters performs best among those brands.It seems that Clean Oil Filter led this test.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 09-11-2009, 09:34 AM
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What! They didn't test the oil filters I use... SuperTech from Wal*Mart? For shame. In over 2,000,000 miles of use on varied vehicles... no oil/filter related problems. Why buy expensive when Wal*Mart will do? But then I change oil/filters ever 2K miles.

Last edited by LEVE; 09-11-2009 at 09:39 AM.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2009, 10:48 AM
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Great advice from LEVE, since they are made by Champion, so I read.
Unfortunately, that would mean I would have to visit Walmart.

"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy."

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2009, 01:48 PM
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An other case of "Holy Old Post, Batman!"

I was the lead Fuel and Lube Filter engineer for Caterpillar before I got laid off in Feb....I worked with the lab and ran those same exact tests on the big diesel engine's filters (both Cat brand filters, and all the major will-fit competitors)

We used to joke around the Filter group that "Fram is a great marketing company"....implying that thats about the only thing they do well

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 09-15-2009, 11:41 PM
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Thumbs up Oil Filter Analysis

Great Post Guys!!!. I used to have a 91 Honda Accord and I always used the fram oil filter; never had a problem!!. Bought it with about 112,528 or so miles and sold it when it had 300,249 miles on the OEM engine....that sucker ran strong and never had a problem with it (never rebuilt it). The fram oil filter seemed to do a fine job in my application, the oil was changed regularly and always did the tune up when it was needed, I also used Valvoline engine oil the entire time I had the vehicle. Regardless, I had always thought Fram had some decent products, but after reading this I guess I was wrong!!!. Now I have a 1986 Chevy S10 Blazer with the 2.8 V6, 700R4 automatic, what oil filter should I use on this rig, which one would you all recommend?. Thanks in advance!!.
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