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post #1 of (permalink) Old 05-11-2001, 03:37 AM Thread Starter
 
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No juice (electric kind)

Alrighty then, I'm no electrician but I figured that if I grounded my dash I'd have no problems with the glass body. To be on the overkill side I used some 4awg welding cable a buddy had laying around and went from the head to one of the dash bolts with a splice in between going to a fender bolt. I'm getting no power to anything. I get 12.8 volts when I go from the batt. to anything (dash,fender,grill,frame,motor,steering column,even the key for cry'n out loud) with a multimeter, even the heater box bolts which I haven't even grounded yet. Sorry so long. TIA

'78 CJ7,304,T18 w/ 6.32,locked 30,open 20,4" Skyjacker,33" TSL,4WDHardware glass body,Matkins frame, almost done.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 05-11-2001, 01:21 PM
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Re: No juice (electric kind)

1. Fill out the Profile.. it's nice to have a real name associated with you... not just the Jeep.
2. Check continuity between the batter negagive post, to the engine block, to the splice to the dash.
3. Check to make sure the supply voltage is to the firewall. Check using the battery ground as the refrence. That will check the 12volt postive to the battery.

If that checks OK... let us know and we'll go from there.

This ain't rocket science, and I'm pretty good at these kind of problems... so since two heads are better than one (especially when one's mine) it should't take too long to get this figured out.

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 05-12-2001, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: No juice (electric kind)

Ok, #1 was easy got that fixed and didn't get dirty or shocked. As for continuity in the ground it checked ok. I'm not sure what you mean supply voltage, but I'm not getting any voltage past the solenoid. Does the fuse block need to be grounded? Even if it does I would say it is because the column is and there is a steel plate in the firewall that all the bolts are running through. Thanks for the help so far. MAN I CAN"T WAIT TO GET THIS THING DONE

'78 CJ7,304,T18 w/ 6.32,locked 30,open 20,4" Skyjacker,33" TSL,4WDHardware glass body,Matkins frame, almost done.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 05-12-2001, 01:13 AM
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Re: No juice (electric kind)

Here's what I'd do...

You're going to need a volt meter... if you don't have one... buy one at Radio Shack!

1. Make up two 10 foot wire cables (16 gage wire is fine).
a. Ond red colored insulation.
b. One black colored isulation.
On each end of the wire solder an allagator clip (you can get them at Radio Shack).
2. Take the black Jumper wire and run it from the negative battery post to the metal dash.

Did the Dash awaken?

If so, then the ground cable is bad.
If not... then let's look elsewhere for the problem

3. Connect the red wire to the positive battery post. Now be careful, you're holding all the battery's power in your hand!

4. By looking at the schematic (it's CJ Gauges...) find the splices those are 12 volt feed lines... see the fuses? Well they feed 12 volts to the gauges... put the other end of that jumper cable on the end of those fuses that feed the gauges.

Did the gauge wake up?

Let me know...



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post #5 of (permalink) Old 05-12-2001, 02:44 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: No juice (electric kind)

Well I couldn't quite make out the pic. but I think I did what you said. I grounded the dash = no change. I touched the + wire to the fuse marked ins. cluster and the emergency drive light came on, no life in fuel, temp., or volt gages. I wouldn't expect the fuel gage to move 'cause 1. no gas in there & 2. no sendiing unit hooky up yet (still making the rear wiring harness, the old one was getting to cut up to use). Should I just wait 'till I have the rest of the wiring in place? I'm also waiting on the dash lights (ie. wiper, fan, def.). I've got to say you're the man, I didn't expect to get a response 'till sat. evening. Oh and Yes I have a multimeter.
So what do you think?

'78 CJ7,304,T18 w/ 6.32,locked 30,open 20,4" Skyjacker,33" TSL,4WDHardware glass body,Matkins frame, almost done.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 05-12-2001, 03:07 AM
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Re: No juice (electric kind)

Ok, it seems you've proven that the ground is working. It seems like one of a few problems:

1. Miswire in the main harness distribution from the Battery positive post to the to the fuse block. This could be in the engine compartment.
2. Miswire from the fuse block to the distribution points under the dash. I doubt this becasuse there are multiple distribution points that should have 12 volts and they don't seem to have 12 volts at any point.
3. Tarnished connections on the connectors in the fuse block.
4. A bad fuseable link in the wiring harness comming off the lug on the starter solenoid that distributs power to the inside of the tub.

Here's the next step...

1. Do you have a schematic?
2. Seperate the fuse block assembly.
3. Find the 12volt feed points on the inside of the fuse block that sits in the engine compartment.
4. Measure those points to see if you've got 12 volts.

Let me know... I'm up all night at work!

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 05-12-2001, 10:44 PM
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Re: No juice (electric kind)

LEVE
Right now, my money is on #4. I bet he's got a(some) bad fusible link(s).

glasscj
Try peircing the insulation of the hot wire(s) going to the fuse block with a needle (as a temp terminal for the multimeter probe) to see where you STOP getting 12V.

Steve 83 Bronco 4.9L
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 05-13-2001, 04:24 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: No juice (electric kind)

LEVE- Did the message go through? It had an error on my end when I sent it. I forgot to add,Yes I have a schematic in the Haynes manual.

Steve- Thanks for the input, I probably won't get to it 'till sun. evening.

'78 CJ7,304,T18 w/ 6.32,locked 30,open 20,4" Skyjacker,33" TSL,4WDHardware glass body,Matkins frame, almost done.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 05-13-2001, 05:01 AM
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Re: No juice (electric kind)

Yep, I got the message and replied...

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