Any one have any good suggestions for removing rusted brake lines? I am replacing the master cylinder and the flare nuts (I think thats what they are called) broke loose. Problem is that they are rusted to the line, so I cant loosen they all the way without twisting the lines.
I guess the other question is should I replace the brake lines. I am on a budget and dont want to spring for them if I dont have to. I realize this is no area to be playing around with, but I just need some info.
Finally, if I do replace the lines, should I buy preformed or bend my own.
Bill I would replace those lines. If buy straight lines and bend them yourself, it shouldn't cost you more then $10-$15 bucks for the two lines. Might be alot cheaper if the place you get them has them with the correct flare nuts on and you don't have to buy any adapters.
BTW: I am going through the same problem, the lines from the MC to the prop valve on my CJ7 did the same thing.
sounds like more than rust holding it on ....try some brake parts cleaner od this stuff called.... rust blaster... I think?
Let it soak in good ...use a spanner wrench on the lines ...use some emery cloth or sand paper to clean up the line where it is binding...
if you can get one line off and the other is loose then try turning the master cylinder the rest of the way off....DRAIN IT FIRST...Don't try to force the nut off if it dont come off with reasonable force keep on spraying it or find out what is binding it the line may be crimped just behind the nut.
if you need to replace the lines ...I personally would get pre bent ones if possible ..it don't look like much fun bending them ...small lines tend to crimp real easy...
I believe the new master cylinder has to be bench bleed before installing it read the directions ...sometimes a hand vacume pump is available from ...Auto Zone or Pep Boys ...or wherever..they are real handy to bleed the system if an assistant dosen't seem to be around.
never try to force brake lines ...that may be why they call them "brake" lines cause thats what they do.
Learn to let go of what does not serve you ,but forces you to serve it
I always had good luck using a propane torch. Just heat the flange nuts until they break loose from the master cylinder. Then work the nuts back and forth while they are still hot, and they should break free from the line.
One word of caution: Break fluid and most penetrants are flammible. But not like gasoline...
Second piece of advice: if you must bend your own lines, use a bender. If no bender is available, try using a small pulley or wheel.
Yeah, I found out about the size thing at the parts store. I went with the adapters, cuz I have no patience. Any one think there will be a problem with this?? Any one actually have experience with these?
By the way, I bent the tubing around the axle nut. They actually came out Sweet, except for the adapters, looks almost stock.