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post #1 of (permalink) Old 03-12-2001, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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Using Dana 30 outers on Dana 44

The easiest thing I can do when going to my Dana 44 front is to use the Dana 30 outers- now I know I can use the GM setup, but I was wondering what the total gain is by doing this - I know you can get a high-strength Dana 30 outer axle for about $90 for the pair, I was wondering what was everyone's take on this subject & if anyone has problems with backspacing in regard to using the GM setup on the outers.

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Mel

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 03-12-2001, 10:59 PM
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Re: Using Dana 30 outers on Dana 44

I have the same questions since I will buying a currie unit soon. I have never seen or heard of anyone breaking a D30 knuckle or spindle but i am sure it has happened. I think the weak point of the D30 is the axle u-joints and R&P.
since you are eliminating those weak points, the D44 with D30 outers should make a very strong unit. I have compared D44 outers to D30 outers and the size difference is noticable but doesnt seem like much of an advantage by any stretch of the imagination.
Mizu

post #3 of (permalink) Old 03-13-2001, 05:16 AM
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Re: Using Dana 30 outers on Dana 44

the gm setup.. has much stronger hubs... bigger calipers... larger outer shafts..

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 03-13-2001, 07:09 AM
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Re: Using Dana 30 outers on Dana 44

Mel;

I know someone doing the exact OPPOSITE thing, putting 44 outers on a 30 ......

I went with the waggy d44 on advice from knowledgable net people who said the knuckles are stronger than the 30 and the smaller 44s (scout 44s) - they had seen the 30 knuckles come apart under the weight of large tires (swampers). Obviously not as strong as a 60, but a noticable strength improvement than a 30. You're going to need all the strength you can get as the knuckles take a lot of abuse in ARCA due to the vertical climbs you have to power up.

If it were me, and having done it, I would find a matching set of front and rear axles out of the same vehicle and slam them both in there. This will be much much much easier than trying to cut apart either axle (ie: changing knuckles or shortening the axles), and you can probably make up any width differences with wheel offset. And you won't have to start worrying about redrilling axle shafts to match the bolt pattern, and what brakes parts to mix and match, and is the track width different front and rear, etc etc etc.

Just my 2c.

Chad Lloyd 95 YJ 4.0 NP435 EBD20 woodies D44s 4.88 detroits SOA revolvers 35 X 15.5 SXs 8274
post #5 of (permalink) Old 03-13-2001, 08:16 AM
 
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Re: Using Dana 30 outers on Dana 44

you'd be able to keep your D30 disc breaks too, if you have them. One more thing to think about.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 03-13-2001, 11:10 AM
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Re: Using Dana 30 outers on Dana 44

Thats the beauty of using D30 outers. You use your old rotors and calipers. But with 35" tires my current brake system is marginal on steep inclines or declines.
There are aftermarket slotted rotors available that will augment stopping power but they are sort of pricey.

Mizu

post #7 of (permalink) Old 03-13-2001, 12:22 PM
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Re: Using Dana 30 outers on Dana 44

Why not buy a complete 44 and just put it under there ? If it's a full size pick-up axle, just cut the the inners to scout length and you're done.
I'd stay from any bastardizing of components. You want to be able to buy anything you need from a junkyard or donor vehicle.
I don't understand the backspacing question. I hope we arn't expecting to keep the tires under the fenders, won't happen, standard backspace with reasonable tire width, is the best you can get, anything else will interfere with the springs when turning. imho

post #8 of (permalink) Old 03-13-2001, 02:41 PM
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Re: Using Dana 30 outers on Dana 44

If you buy a pre made unit, the option is there to use your old D30 outers and save 1000.00 bucks. Most of the guys who are upgrading to the D44 already have the D30 outers and aren't going to enter in any rock crawling championships any time soon. Even if you are, the D30 outer are very strong and I personally have tested mine through the Rubicon and others.
If you want a pre made D44 with all D44 parts and brakes, the price goes up to 2500.00 through Currie.

Some folks aren't comfortable with cutting their own axle tubes and would rather pay the 1500.00 than have to worry about whether or not they used the right rod or whether or not they got enough penetration etc, etc.

It is definitely a convenience issue and in some cases a safety issue.

Some of you guys know what brakes etc. will fit the junkyard D44 but most of us don't.

If you have the money, get a Currie unit. If you are a glutton for punishment and want to say that you built your jeep from the ground up, build your own axle housings.

Personally, I don't have the time to cut and weld my own housings, send out the axles to get splined, dig through the junk yard for brakes that you hope will fit, and then put it all together and pray that the camber angles, weld penetration, pinion angles, welding rod type, and anything else that I can't think of right now, is the correct type or correctly done.

No offense but sizing your own axle housings and putting it all together is not as easy of a job as some folks make it sound.

Mizu


post #9 of (permalink) Old 03-13-2001, 02:52 PM
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Re: Using Dana 30 outers on Dana 44

I guess I don't value "convenience" as highly as some, What is this "brake issue" ?... just use the ones that came on the axle. If you find a narrowtrack or scout axle you won't need to do anything uncomforting...


post #10 of (permalink) Old 03-13-2001, 05:15 PM
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Re: Using Dana 30 outers on Dana 44

I agree. If you get both axles, you just source the brakes and everything from what originally came with that vehicle. I used waggy axles. When I want brake parts I just to go the parts store and ask them for brake pads for a 1987 wagoneer. Works every time. I got disks, drums, shoes, pads, and calipers this same way. The only time you have to worry about swapping parts is when YOU mix and match between the axles. That is why using a set of matched junk yard axles works so well - there's no breaking them down and trying to mix and match to build them up again. The easiest/cheapest way to get stronger axles under your rig is to get a matched set of used axles and use the whole thing.

Chad Lloyd 95 YJ 4.0 NP435 EBD20 woodies D44s 4.88 detroits SOA revolvers 35 X 15.5 SXs 8274
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