Re: TeamRush- Yet another duraspark ??
As for timing the distributor gear...
Any distributor gear that has an odd number of teeth, (almost all) will have a front and back.
The only way I know of to get the distributor gear back correctly is to:
Assemble and install the distributor,
Cut a hole in an old distributor cap over the #1 plug wire terminal,
Time the engine, with the vacuum advance disconnected,
Shine the timing light on the rotor, and rev the engine to see if the rotor is way before or way past the #1 terminal and/ or getting farther away...
(If it sweeps from before to past the terminal, your rotor phasing is correct.)
If the rotor starts on and moves away from the #1 terminal, or starts after the #1 terminal and moves away from the #1 terminal, your rotor phasing is incorrect.
Turning the distributor gear around 180 degrees may help with correction up to 22.5 degrees.
Also, removing the tab from the cap base or slot from the cap, and turning it a bit can help.
I also grind and move the rotor alignment tab, (up in the rotor) but that is REAL hard...
You will almost never get the correct alignment, but get it as close as you can to keeping the rotor sweep in phase with the tower it's supposed to be firing...
Remember, disconnect the vacuum advance, and plug the line during the first part of the tests.
Hook it back up and pull vacuum to see what it's doing when your vacuum advance comes in...
See attachment for a pic of the test cap I use...
Bob, I don't recommend going down through the top because;
1. Most of the time the wire clip that is under the oil felt is usually destroyed by beginners.
If you decide to do it that way, and take the reluctor and advance (pickup coil and floor plate) off,
-- the clip SPREADS open,-- It does not pinch to open it... Don't try to spread it and then pull it out... You will probably only bend it up pretty good.
Spread the clip ends, and pull the entire centrifugal advance head up...
Small distinction, but usually leads to disaster if you don't know it. That clip is virtually impossible to replace anywhere but the Factory Dealership or salvaging one from an old distributor.
2. The tools to remove and replace the clips and reluctor are not in the normal Joe's tool kits. Knowledge of disassembly and reassembly is not common.
3. Prying on the reluctor is unacceptable.
If you do 'pry' on the reluctor, make sure you do it down on the base circle, and not out on the 'fins'. If you move the 'fins' any at all, cylinder timing will be off...
If you use a gear puller to take the reluctor off, make sure the jaws get a hold of the base circle, and not the 'fins'.
The 'fins' bend VERY easy...
(Cheep tool tip: A battery terminal puller with a screw action will double as a low buck reluctor puller on Ford and Chrysler... Just use wire under the reluctor to the puller jaw hooks)
4. That's a lot more disassembly and reassembly of very small and delicate parts than dropping the drive gear and vacuum advance, and pulling two screws.
Removing and reinstalling the distributor has been covered here several times.
Almost everyone can do it, and once you get comfortable with pulling the distributor, it's much faster.
5. Pulling the entire distributor shaft keeps the correct timing on everything except the distributor gear.
6. If you pull the distributor, you can work on it ON YOUR WORK BENCH!
A HUGE plus in my book!
I'm fat & lazy, and I don't like leaning over the radiator or finder to work on anything anymore...
I think either way will work, I just don't like taking the chance of loosing small parts in the field. I'd rather yank the distributor and take it to the work bench.
I always hone the inside of the reluctor so it slip fits the advance head rotor shaft, and Rely on the roll pin to hold it in place.
I have never seen one fail like this, and they are a damned sight easier to remove the next time...
Don't forget to use a good quality Synthetic grease on all the wear surfaces before reassembly.
I haven't committed a crime. What I did was fail to comply with the law...