12 degree shim after lift! - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
Jeep-Short Wheelbase All discussion of short wheelbase Jeeps: CJ, TJ, YJ and JK

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of (permalink) Old 03-06-2001, 06:56 AM
sas87yj
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
12 degree shim after lift!

after talking with tom wood last night, he came up with me needing a 12 degree shim to fix rear shaft angle after 4.5" RE lift. i couldn't install lift without dropping shaft and the shaft will not go on now due to the extreme angle. granted i DID NOT lower the transcase with the 1" pucks but DID install the 2.5 degree shims. laid the shaft in there best i could with yoke almost fully extended and u-joint barely on diff yoke to measure the shaft angle with a protractor on bottom of shaft. measured 40 degrees from the verticle. diff measured 8 degrees from the verticle. tom couldn't believe the 40 degree, not with only a 4.5" lift. to get a better measurement i measured from the ground up to center of tail shaft and from ground to center of diff yoke. 23" and 13" respectively. slope distance from rear seal of transcase to center diff yoke = 18.5". this equates to 32 degrees (opposite/hypotenuse = sin). tom liking that measurement better did a calc of his own and figures a 12 degree shim along with the SYE and CV shaft should work. any opinions from you driveline experts out there? what about the diff being shimed that much-will it lube itself correctly?
thanks,steve

Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of (permalink) Old 03-06-2001, 07:59 AM
Can't Get Enough
 
RickB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Erie, Pa
Posts: 1,125
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: 12 degree shim after lift!

I'm not a expert by any means, but I've never heard of anyone using that much of a shim. I'm thinking that relocating the spring pads would be better.

RickB is offline  
post #3 of (permalink) Old 03-06-2001, 08:18 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 785
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: 12 degree shim after lift!

as far a lubrication goes, i would recommend a product called "Lucas Oil Stabilizer". the display at the autoparts stores shows two different sets of five plastic gears that are stacked vertically. one set has only motor oil in it and the other has 20% Lucas and 80% motor oil (manufacturer recommended percentages). top gear runs dry in the set with oil only. the Lucas makes the oil "sticky" and lubricates the top gear. it is also good for your seals. i have had very good success using it in manual transmissions that were noisy or hard to shift and noisy transfer cases. i also run it in my differentials at the recommended 20% Lucas to 80% gear lube. it is usually $8 a quart from NAPA, CarQuest, and some truck stops carry it. hope this helps! may want to do an internet search for more info. matt

jeepnmatt is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of (permalink) Old 03-06-2001, 11:26 AM
Enthusiast
 
dennisuello's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Reno, Nevada
Posts: 321
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: 12 degree shim after lift!

my RE 4.5 should be here pretty soon, so I'm getting ready to install it, however I can't get sye right away. is it at all drivable without sye, or i need to get it before i put the lift on?

Denis <><
'92 YJ i6, 32x11.5x15 bfg ATs, 4.5 RE lift is coming soon
http://dennisuello.tripod.com/
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=1570804&f=0
dennisuello is offline  
post #5 of (permalink) Old 03-06-2001, 06:03 PM
sas87yj
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: 12 degree shim after lift!

dennis-
i would be a good guinea pig for your future project! fire away any questions and i will tell you some things up front![img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
1)spray -wd40 or equal all shackle and u-bolts ahead of time and you can even try to break loose all if time permits.
2) i believe you will notice that the top 2 shackle bolts at rear will not be able to pull out because gas tank is in way. these will have to be cut off.
3) watch out for the vacuum lines to the 4wd unit on front axle when installing front springs. they will need some slack.
4) also same with the emergency cables, especially pass. side when doing rear springs.
5) good luck removing pitman arm! get a good quality USA puller.6) will need a pickle fork for taking pitman arm off tie rod.
7) need 4 jack stands, couple bottle jacks, floor jack and timber.
i did not drop transcase the 1" as kit comes with. i did install the little 2.5 degree shims on rear. i had to drop rear shaft to install springs-was binding. with lift complete, rear shaft will not connect to yoke at diff. angle too extreme and even if it did go together the yoke is almost out of transcase. i can't believe even if i lowered the transcase it would be any better-well a little but i don't see how it would be wise to drive. i am curious how your lift goes! i forgot to pre-measure height of frame before so i could see if 4.5" was close. see if you can remember![img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img] good luck! steve

Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome