Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: In the Ozarks of Missouri
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Re: Looking For TEAM RUSH AMC V8 oiler
Vinny and the rest -
I have that upgrade cataloged on disk. I am using it in my 360 rebuild. There are two versions: The "TR" version, which is internal, and the "CJDave" version, which is external. There are advantages and disadvantages to both. The internal one is very well protected, but it is not clearable should it plug up without removing the timing cover. You also only drill out an oil gallery plug - so if you screw your first one up, it isn't deadly on the pocket book. The external one is easily clearable - something to consider when you are talking about an opening of only 0.025"! Also, the external can be done to an engine that is already built without tearing it down. Dave's doesn't actually appear here on the BBS. He has a print version he produced at his house. I changed it into a PDF format for him, but he has never sent me the corrections to the text, a materials list, and a tools list for it. I will remind him of it when he returns. The idea Dave had was actually from PartsMike. Dave modified it a little bit from his version. I was going to do Dave's version, but I decided to switch over and go internal since I am doing a complete rebuild.
Remember that while this was a post on the BBS, I put it on disk so it may be modified or changed from the original post!
Here is TR's 'short version' post:
<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr>
When I started tearing into the AMC V-8's, this very thing was a major concern for me.
The timing chains stretched out a mile, and the teeth wore out on the timing gears were my big clue, But the fuel pump eccentric having a groove worn in it was the clincher that something needed to be done desperately.
CJ Dave came up with an external oiler that could be done by anyone that didn't want to tear the front off the engine.
I came up with a way to modify the oil gallery plug to get oil to the dry stuff. I figured that drilling the plug would make people a lot less nervous that trying to drill the block it's self.
The front gallery plug, a drill and bit, a tap, and 0.025" MiG welder tip is all that is required for my internal oiler.
Just put the plug in with thread sealer, (NOT TAPE) and when it's tight in the hole, use a straight edge to figure your angle to the fuel pump eccentric, and mark the plug for drilling.
Take the plug back out, and drill and tap it for the MIG welder tip.
Reinstall the plug in the gallery so that your angle will be correct. Don't forget to use thread sealer.
Screw in the MIG welder tip. Use thread locker.
Make sure your cam gear won’t hit it, and if it doesn't, you are done.
When the oil pressure feeds the lifter galleries, The MIG tip will allow oil to be sprayed on the fuel pump eccentric, the timing chain, and the distributor drive gear.
I also received the "explained" version from TR via email some time back (this has probably been edited also):
<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr>
You will need:
1 ea. Allen head front oil gallery plug. ($1.) I prefer brass.
1 ea. Allen wrench for the oil gallery plug.
1 ea. 0.024" or 0.025" MIG welding contact tip, usually 5 or 6 MM threads. ($1.50)
1. Drill bit of the correct size for your tap.
1 Tap the same size as the MIG tip.
Some 'Red' thread locker. (Lock Tite)
About 30 minutes.
Put your cam drive gear on and put your fuel pump eccentric and distributor gear on. Take a look at the front gallery plug just behind the gear to the left or the right. This is the oil gallery that supplies the lifter galleries.
Use an allen head plug, this is important.
With your gallery plug screwed in tight, figure the angle to your distributor gear or oil pump eccentric. Mark your plug and the block so you know where to stop when you put it back in. Take the crap off the cam so you can get to the plug. If you are really confident and paper & tape off all the front of the engine, you can use a hand drill to start the hole in the plug... BUT DON'T DRILL THROUGH! If you drill through, you stand a good chance of letting metal get into the oil gallery.
Take the plug out, and screw it into a fitting or something so it's held tight without damaging the threads. Drill the hole through.
From here, tap the hole, and check to make sure the MIG welder tip screws in. After checking for cuttings, reinstall the Allen head gallery plug so the angle you drilled in is correct.
Install the MIG welder tip and make sure that the alignment is correct to spray oil on the accessory drives. Also make sure the MIG welder tip isn't too long and going to interfere with anything. If it is, just grind it off shorter.
If the angle is correct, Clean the threads with MEK or De-Natured alcohol then use thread locker on everything.
(I've been known to use JB Weld on everything to make sure it stays in place.)
THE BIG IDEA OF THE UPGRADE...
About half of the cam drive gear is open. (It has holes in it) When the holes in the cam drive gear come around, the oil sprays through and onto the accessory drives. When the spokes of the drive gear block the spray, the oil is slung out to lube the timing chain.
It's a win/win situation.
Don't ask me too many questions about this! I am not the pro here - I am just regurgitating his knowledge. I know Aaron would not mind me putting his info on here, but I would never try to assume his role and further explain this stuff. So be warned! Anything I tell you from here is from a rank amateur - and not from the desk of TeamRush!
When you come to the end of your road, get out and lock the hubs in . . .