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post #1 of (permalink) Old 02-14-2001, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
 
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Cantilevered shocks (Pics)

A lot of people have been asking me about my shock set up and axle wrap set up. So while I was climbing out from under the engine compartment today for the umpteenth time, I noticed that with no drive train in place, it was a good time to get some good pics of the rear suspension.
So here ya go

Jeff
89 YJ
"Its Do or Dont Do, There is no Try"
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 02-14-2001, 10:39 PM
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Re: Cantilevered shocks (Pics)

H8, once again..........AMAZING
that looks awesome and surely it is just as functional.
thanx for sharing

83 CJ-7 TF-999, Original stock EVERYTHING when purchased. Now added leafs, shackles and shocks with new 33's. Still waiting for paint!!!
post #3 of (permalink) Old 02-14-2001, 10:52 PM
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Re: Cantilevered shocks (Pics)

I guy in our club did that too. It's a great way to get more shock travel.

Gary
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 02-14-2001, 11:35 PM
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Re: Cantilevered shocks (Pics)

H8 - looks kool - Now - tell me "How does that help with axke wrap"??? Looks like it would sure center it! What am I not getting here?

post #5 of (permalink) Old 02-15-2001, 12:19 AM
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Re: Cantilevered shocks (Pics)

I'v been thinking of doing this to but have been concerned about body roll with the shocks sitting that close together.
Do you have any problems with this at all?


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post #6 of (permalink) Old 02-15-2001, 12:48 AM
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Re: Cantilevered shocks (Pics)

BeaterCJ7, I don't think that this actually is designed to help with axle wrap. That is what the bar on the pic I attached does.

Now, tell me what ya'll think about this. A piece of C channel mounted upside down with a simple hole drilled though it and the upper edge of the shock mounted in the center of the "C".

If my understanding of a shock is correct then it works best when in a verticle position. So what you are doing here is creating and angle to increase the length of the shock that can be mounted under the rear axle. A small trade off in shock performance for an increase in travel. Right? Therefore you want to mount the upper end as high as possible and the lower end as low as possible. Now the lower mount is put in a bad position to be torn off. So it needs to be protected, if possible. With a SUA setup the mount could be protected by the spring(by placing the lower mount above the spring). In a SOA it will be more exposed.

Tell me what yall think.

Also, H8 what shocks are you using? If they are RS9000 what setting are you using? Do you ever have to adjust the valving or did you just set it and leave it? The reason that I am asking this is I was thinking of saving some money and just getting some RSX's or RS5000.




Jason

<font color=green>----------------</font color=green>
<font color=green>[]llll[] '90 YJ</font color=green>
<font color=green>"There are no shortcuts to any place worth going."-Anon.</font color=green>
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 02-15-2001, 01:10 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Cantilevered shocks (Pics)

That Ford bronco radius arm, is attached to the axle using the stock C brackets and C bushings. There is no way that the axle can rotate. I use Bronco rubber bushings, instead of polyurethane(and nutted very loose), at the front bracket to allow the springs to move back and forth a bit in their travel. This set up, completely eliminates axle wrap and only slightly hinders full articulation. I may redesign it a little to run more to the center of vehicle when I build the new skid plates.
The shocks are R9012 and if you look at the pic you can see the air hoses running to the adjuster valves, which are controlled in the cab. The 2 rear shocks are controllable individually side to side, so that I can dump the air on the uphill side of a steep side hill to squat the rear end down a bit. The air line are ran equal length so that one hit of the air button equallizes the 2 sides(since they are equall length, the air fills the low side hose to the pressure of the other side before both sides begin to increase). This makes it easy to ballance.
The cantilever set up is extremely stable on side hills, since the down hill shock tends to act more upright and the up hill shock tends to act more cantilevered, this allows the jeep to squat down on a side hill rather than lean away from the hill. I have made many a believer while playing in the rocks. Its also a simple, and very inexpensive mod, and gets the shocks up out of the way of rocks.
And yes it is very flexy

Jeff
89 YJ
"Its Do or Dont Do, There is no Try"
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 02-15-2001, 06:23 AM
 
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Re: Cantilevered shocks (Pics)

looks really good/functional, that is a good picture of your rear suspension/axle.

so, were did your drivetrain go?

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 02-15-2001, 07:43 AM
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Re: Cantilevered shocks (Pics)

<font color=blue>If my understanding of a shock is correct then it works best when in a verticle position. So what you are doing here is creating and angle to increase the length of the shock that can be mounted under the rear axle. A small trade off in shock performance for an increase in travel. Right? </font color=blue>

Ordinarily this is true, but with the RS9000's, you can adjust the shocks so you don't loose any performance. I typically run mine at the 1 setting off road, the 2-3 on road, and very rarely use the 4-5 settings. All this would do is cause you to increase a notch or so on the shocks, which would be nice with the in-cab controller.

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 02-15-2001, 10:19 AM
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Re: Cantilevered shocks (Pics)

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] Don't forget guys, that by having the shocks at an angle to the actual direction of axle movement, there is a loss of mechanical advantage to the shock, and a corresponding gain in useable shock travel. For each inch the axle moves, the shock moves only a fraction of an inch. Detroit has used this in many, many cars over the years, and in pickups as well. It was a way of getting shock travel, keeping the floor low, and yet not having the shock mounts dragging on the street. H8 has adapted this concept for rock crawling by going one step further and using INDIVIDUAL air-adjust shocks, which then helps to counteract the axle side thrust from extreme off-camber positions. So you have flexure, but with the benefit of holding the rig SIDEWAYS rather than adding to the vertical stress on the chassis corners that the crawl has already placed on it by the difference in where each wheel has to be to stay in contact with the rock. A very sensible and yet simple setup.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]

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