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post #1 of (permalink) Old 02-11-2001, 04:00 AM Thread Starter
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More High Steering Questions:)

Okay... So I need to get the steering knuckles off of a '77 or older chevy truck with a D44 up front, correct? Do I need to grind off the knuckle part from the axle tube? Then I need to mill the tops of both and drill and tap 3 holes? Then what? What do I use ontop of the knuckle to attach the steering linkage(BTW - what's that called, the tie rod or draglink?)... thanks...

"James and the Giant Jeep"
1993 Wrangler 4.0/5spd, Herculined Interior, D44s Soon
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 02-11-2001, 04:39 AM
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Re: More High Steering Questions:)

Jamgood,

The steering knuckles need to be 'flat top' knuckles. Usually one will already be milled and have three holes tapped. This is noramlly where the steering arm was bolted. The other knuckle needs to have the same casting shape. That is the one that gets milled (not grinded since you need a flat surface). Then three holes get drilled and tapped (the casting is thicker right where the three holes will go).

The knuckle isn't attached directly to the axle tube, but is attached on a pivot through ball joints. Check out mangler's site (I think he has defected to owning a wrangler and may go by Bostonwrangler) http://ct-web.unh.edu/yankeetoys/ksp...s_steering.htm for some pics.

You will then need to buy steering arms made for the flat top knuckles for approx $200-$300 for both including the studs and cone washers. The tie rod connects to these arms. A tie rod connects both knuckles together which in turn keeps both wheels parallel, or very close to parallel. The drag link on the high steering usually attaches to the tie rod. It is controlled by the steering gear connected to the pitman arm. Your jeep's draglink probably attaches to the knuckle itself. Go look at it and it will make sense.

There is a lot written up on this. There was a post the other day that had links to threads in the Pirate bbs (tons of info).



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post #3 of (permalink) Old 02-11-2001, 09:54 AM
 
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Re: More High Steering Questions:)

James there is no complicates cutting of the knuckles or anything like that.
You will simply remove the old Chevy knuckles at the Ball Joints and reattach them to your D44 with either new or existing Ball Joints. The Driver side aftermarket steering arm will bolt right up using the factory studs, cones, nuts, and washers. The passenger side, just need to be milled drilled and tapped to mirror match the factory driver side, and the new aftermarket steering arm attachment will also be the same, as then driver side once its prepped propperly. The cheapest place I have heard for the arms are $85 each, and the cheapest for prepping the passenger knuckle is $50. These prices are through Bob Roggy Enterprises, I have never used him, but he has a good reputation with the guys on the POR board. I will talk with him this comming up weekend at the Rock Crawling Event at the Hammers,(he is a contestant). Once you have the knuckles and arms all prepped, then you simply reinstall the knuckles with the arms, and fabricate some Tie Rod and Drag Link Steering Linkage. It really isnt a very tough project, once you get started.
Here is a pic of the knuckles.

Jeff
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 02-11-2001, 09:57 AM
 
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Re: More High Steering Questions:)

The arms simply attach to the top of the knuckles with the studs, cones, nuts and washers.
See the pic.

Jeff
89 YJ
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 02-11-2001, 10:08 AM
 
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Re: More High Steering Questions:)

The linkage is very simple. 2 length of 1 3/8 solid steel round stock. The ends are drilled and tapped to accept the tie rod ends(I used chromolloy 3/4" Nascar approved TRE's, with a supposed breaking strength of 28,000 lbs). So the machine shop, tapped one right hand and one left hand 3/4 x 16 threads on the Tie Rod and the Drag Link. then a flat spot is milled in the Tie Rod to accept the drag link. The thinner area of the flat spot could be bolstered with a gusset along the sides, but our structural engineer, didnt seem to think that it would break before the TRE's, when I had him run structural calcs on my design.
One last set of pics.

Jeff
89 YJ
There is no "TRY", Just "DO" or "DONT DO"
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