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post #1 of (permalink) Old 01-22-2001, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
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Front Driveshaft talk...caster, pinion angle, etc.

Okay, I'm still unclear on a few things. For the rear driveshaft, with an SOA, the best setup is rotating the pinion up and running a CV driveshaft. But for the front, I'm a bit lost I've had a few things told to me as to what to do. I'd really love some clearing up! I had someone tell me that I can just leave the front end alone(no rotating of the pinion) and run a longer driveshaft. Will this worK? I've had someone tell me to rotate the pinion a little and still keep positive caster, but what type of driveshaft do I run? Will this work? I've also been told to grind the welds and rotate the knuckles to adjust the caster after pointing the pinion at the T/C. I know this will solve my problems, but what type of work is it going to take to get the pinion pointed right at the T/C and to get the knuckles identical to each other? For that matter, how hard will it be to get the rear pinion pointed directly at the T/C? Hope I can get these answered. I know this subject has probably been gone over many times, but I can't seem to find the answers on the old posts for this board. I read the info on Tom Wood's site, and got some good insight. But still don't know about some things.

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 01-23-2001, 08:04 AM
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Re: Front Driveshaft talk...caster, pinion angle, etc.

well to rotate the rearend.. you will need to grind off the spring perches.. you then rotate the axle so the pinion is pointing at the transfer case yoke.. keep in mind you dont want to drastic of an anlge or it will be hard to get good lubrication on your pinion bearing.. but most times you dont have to worry about this.. then you reweld the spring perches.. but do this after you bolt up the axle with the weight of the jeep on it..
for the front.. you have to rotate the knuckles on SCOUT d44's cause they come from the factory with like 0 degrees caster.. there necessitating the need for rotating them.. where as the wagoneer axle comes with positive caster.. enough so you do not have to cut the knuckles off.. you do need 0 degrees or positive caster for the steering to center itself.. 6 degrees is like perfect.. but just anything positive will work good.. i have 1 degrees on mine and its fine..
for the front i just pointed the pinion at the yoke.. then measured caster.. then brought the pinion down alittle.. measured caster again.. you need to have a compromise.. i believe my front pinion angle is somewhere in the neighbor hood of 12 degrees.. its been awhile... so im not 100% on that.. you dont really have to set it up as strictly as the rear.. since you only run it in 4 wheel drive.. and most of that time you are going slow.. now.. if you plan on mud bog racing.. well you might want to consider being more strict.. for the front driveshaft.. i just took my old one.. and cut the long side ends off.. got some tubing the same size.. but longer.. and welded it together.. once again.. i didnt balance it or anything.. "I" only use this in 4 wheel drive.. and 99% of that time im super slow.. ... now with that being said.. my driveshaft works.. but it does so because i am running shocks.. just some stock ones for a 4" lift.. they do limit my articulation.. so my driveshaft doesnt seperate.. but if you want this to work to its full potential.. then you will have to run longer shocks.. and get a custom long slip driveshaft.. i will be going this route next month..

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 01-23-2001, 10:50 AM
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Re: Front Driveshaft talk...caster, pinion angle, etc.

First of all there is absolutely no need for pointing the front pinion at the transfer case output. You don't need a CV joint in the front and using a CV joint is the only time you point the pinion directly at the output. Like jeepgod said the only time that the front driveshaft is turning is when you are in 4WD. Like jeepgod, when I am in 4wd I am going slow and the driveshaft isn't spinning fast enough to create vibrations which are noticed to any degree. The angles are also not going to be extreme enough to warrant any worry about wearing out u-joints prematurely. Vibration from harmonic imbalances and wear on u-joints are the biggest reasons why people rotate pinions and change to CV shafts. With most slow going Jeeps neither of these conditions exist for the front shaft when in 4WD (the only time the shaft is turning). If it were mine I would make my new springpads parallel to the existing springpads and not even worry about what the pinion angle is. This is what the majority of the GW 44 swaps into YJ's that I have seen published on the net have done. I have not seen in one of those webpages where the author has said that they wish they had rotated the pinion. From that I assume that the stock angles on the GW work well when used in a YJ. Your conclusions may vary. BTW, grinding and rotating the knuckles is a major pain in the a$$. The type of driveshaft that you need will be dictated by how much flex your suspension has. You will need one long enough to keep the slip joint engaged while fully extended.

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