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post #1 of (permalink) Old 01-19-2001, 03:02 PM Thread Starter
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brake bleeding

my jeep pulls right when you first hit the brakes, but seems to pull less, the harder you push them. it used to pull left (b/c the right front didn't work) but when i replaced the right front caliper, it started pulling right. so i replaced the left front caliper too (what the heck it was only $13), but still no luck. my question is with the proportioning valve - in chilton's it says that you need to use a special tool on the prop. valve when bleeding the brakes. since i have no tool, i used no tool. could that be the problem?

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shawn

"Fear causes hesitation and hesitation causes your worst fears to come true"
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 01-19-2001, 03:37 PM
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Re: brake bleeding

nah you dont need that tool. I think that tool is to hold down the brake light switch to tell you, you have no fluid. You can use a C clamp but just light pressure will do. Sounds like you have a blockage. How old are your rubber brake lines. if they are too old they could be the problem. If that doesnt do it clean the steel lines and make sure nothing is in there.

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 01-19-2001, 05:07 PM
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Re: brake bleeding

I agree. Look at your rubber flex hoses. If they are swelled, leaking or cracked replace them. They are cheap. I had an XJ with a split line and it pulled to the other side like nobodys buisness till I replaced it.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 01-19-2001, 06:08 PM
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Re: brake bleeding

Unless you modified your proportioning valve, it will differentiate between the front and rear,
not from left to right.
Don't overlook the possibility that you could have one of your rear brake drums that could
have a stuck adjustor and therefore be engaging one side before the other. This would explain
the symptom of if pulling....
"right when you first hit the brakes, but seems to pull less, the harder you push them."
Good luck.
-Gus-


90YJ 4.2L NV4500 456:1 33's Twin ARB's
post #5 of (permalink) Old 01-19-2001, 10:09 PM
 
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Re: Porportioning Valve FAQ

The portortioning valve has a sliding cylinder with seals on both ends.
The opposite ends are exposed to the front and rear brake lines.
There is a notch at the top middle of this cylinder and a brake warning light switch is on the top of the valve with it's probe in this notch. Both the emergency brake switch and this P valve switch is connected to the brake lamp in the speedo in a CJ. The line through the lamp is hot and the switches ground the circuit.
If either of these are grounded the lamp will glow.
If you were to have a leak or serious pressure difference between the front and the rear hydraulic brake lines the cylinder in the P valve would move over and the switches probe would be pushed up, grounding the circuit and activating the brake lamp as a warning of brake system failure.
The reason the manual sez to hold the cylinder's notch with a tool is so the cylinder won't slide during bleeding.
Van, the brake man sez "don't worry about it" because once the pressure is equal the cylinder usually pops to center anyway.
It is advisable to bleed the fronts occasionally while doing extensive rear (the first in order) bleeding as this will help keep equal pressure in the fore and aft lines which will then in turn help prevent the P valves cylinder from sliding off center.
And that's about all I know about that ...[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 01-20-2001, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Porportioning Valve FAQ

maybe this is basic, but should i go back and bleed all the brakes again since i changed the front ones? i did go back and re-bleed the front right and got a bunch of air bubbles out.

thanks all
shawn

"Fear causes hesitation and hesitation causes your worst fears to come true"
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 01-20-2001, 09:43 PM
 
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Re: Porportioning Valve FAQ

The back ones should be fine if you didn't opent them.
If you do not have a very firm petal after all is said and done,
go back and bleed them all again untill you do.
A little fresh fluid is good for em!

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