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Jeep-Short Wheelbase All discussion of short wheelbase Jeeps: CJ, TJ, YJ and JK

 
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 01-08-2001, 08:38 PM
toyatic
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totally confused

OK, I hope you guys can shed some light on my situation. I've been currently shopping for a 91-95 wrangler. It is to replace my 94 toy 4x4. My truck has a 3in body lift, torsion bars, rs5000's, 33's, and exhaust. I few other things but mostly stock. I am hearing different views from every one on how to build the wrangler. I am trying to get everything going so when I find my good condition gem, it will be built right. To be honest with you I am not a true four wheeler by most of your oppiones. Most is due to the full time student/worker and my horrible location. I have never broken anything major on my truck besides mud flaps, and exhaust. I've heard everything from the dana 35 on the jeep will be fine with my wheeling, to I'll tear it out the first time I go wheeling. I am not building a serious wheeler but I do not want to cut any corners either. So in essence I need to know the best way to fit 33's for mostly daily driving, with the occassional light wheeling (which includes running rutted muddy trails, and beating our own path through the woods). My friends being my age and in situation are not very built either one has a 91 mazda with body lift and 32's, one has a near stock wrangler 31's, and one has a ranger with 32's. So as you can tell we are not built real hard core, but we do what we can. What is the best way to start of the wrangler to do it right the first time?? Thanks... sorry for the long post

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 01-08-2001, 09:08 PM
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Re: totally confused

Do like most of us have done, drive the stock stuff until it breaks, then upgrade. If it never breaks, don't bother upgrading. From what you've described, the stock stuff may be fine. I've run some pretty tough stuff in the wife's stock TJ with 31's, on it, most of the drivetrain has held up fine. The Scrambler help up fine for awhile, but broken parts necessitated upgrading it. If I hadn't broken them (held up fine for a year), I'd probably still be running them.

<font color=blue>To be honest with you I am not a true four wheeler by most of your oppiones. </font color=blue>

Who cares what our opinions are about "true" wheelers, the fact that you go out at all makes you a wheeler in my book, no matter what you drive or on what trails. Try to get a '95 Wrangler though, they have the stronger front U-joints.

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 01-09-2001, 01:25 AM
**DONOTDELETE**
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Re: totally confused

Don't apologize because you are younger in 4 wheeling than some of us. Don't EVER apologize for it.

You are in for a lot of good fun as I am sure you know from wheeling your truck. I have used a '94 YJ for 6-1/2 years and have kept up with the big dogs on many an occasion. I have the Sahara model with 4.0 and auto and I have NEVER broken an axle or spring or driveshaft or axle u-joint or whatever. Since you are a poor student, I would recommend getting a 2.5L since it has the 4.10 axles stock. That will help you do a better job on the light 4 wheeling work you are doing, it will cost substantially less than the 4.0 and will be less likely to break things on you, also. Keep them cool and with fresh fluids and filters and they will run forever. Not a lot of power on the freeway at high speeds, but the fun of the Jeep has never been high speed stuff and I don't think that's what you have in mind, anyway. Don't fall for the idea that the big stuff is what you need when in fact you already have done some thinking for yourself: light wheeling, mostly street driving, some trail running, etc.
As far as modifiying it: the most important improvement to make is the addition of the front swaybar disconnects. Nothing else you will do will make as much difference as that one single $100. I would recommend 31 inch all terrains since they won't require a regearing for you and won't grip so well that they will break parts.
Try those two simple mods on the suggested rig and you will still be able to be a student and have some Jeep fun! After that, Jeepn is right - drive it till it breaks. Then upgrade. But that doesn't mean drive it to break it. Those are two different things.

sln

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 01-09-2001, 03:26 AM
toyatic
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Re: totally confused

To give a decent example my buddies 94 wrangler she pounds on it as hard as I do, if not harder with her 31's and she has never broke a thing.. I am wanting to try and relate this to 33's. If she has had excellent luck with the 31's, I am figuring I should be ok for a while atleast with the 33's. If not, would it be real difficult to try and install a dana 44 from a cherokee, after I do my lift.. What lift do you recommend? I do have my heart set on the 4.0 though.. I have lived to long with 33's and a 4cly. I plan to keep this jeep and build on it after I finish college (hopefully after this semester), so I have no problem doing things right, and spending the money I have.

post #5 of (permalink) Old 01-09-2001, 06:56 AM
 
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Re: totally confused

Ok... if you want to run 33's you need to get a little clearance. This can be done in a couple of ways. a 4" lift will accomplish this for mild wheeling with 8" wheels. 10's may get you in the fender and cut down your turning radius. The other way is to use a 2.5" lift and 2" body lift. Ive been running this way for several years and the ride is much better than a 4" lift, less stuff to have to work on afterwards,, ( vibration and steering geometry). another thing to consider is the 33's will take all the power from your stock set up. you will need to get at least 410 gearing to get back in the power band on the engine. All this can be done with the stock axles, (keep in mind my set up does not have the "c" clip axles) But this can be left alone till if and when it breaks. You can get a lot of wheeling done in the stock mode and with just a few mods. get a whole lot more wheeling in. All us guys on here do from extreme wheeling to mild wheeling and all types in between, mud and sand have a different way of attacking drive trains than rocks, so the build up is a little different from one to the other. One keeps the drive train turning at higher rpms than the other so things break more often (mud and sand) the other relies on torque and slow rpms, (rocks) but then you have to contend with the torque and weight ratio's cause things can break here as well. But you should be able to do a lot of wheeling while you make your mods and have fun doing it.
GP
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