We have run the 31x10.5 BFG AT with great success. Air them down to about 12 psi, and disconnect the swaybar. We also have the Trac-Lok, and can feel it working on the corners.
There are 2 ways to wheel on snow, depending on the conditions.
1) If the snow is under a foot, like about 10", power and speed are needed to get around. Lose momentum and you're having a hard time getting around, especially with only a 4 cyl. Smaller and taller tires are preferred for this.
2) DEEP snow is low and slow. First gear idiling is preferred, and as soon
as forward movement ceases, back up and try forward again. Sometimes it's taken us hours to go 1/2 mile across a large field. Now, once a trail is broken, it's easier to follow (duh!), but the more it's run, the faster you can take it. Wider tires are preferred in this, because they do "float" ontop of the snow.
I'd also like to note, that lockers and lots of hp can hurt. I have seen people tweak the throttle and dig to China. Then they hit the throttle even more thinking it'll get them out, and sink even further. I have 2 pictures, one with a guy in a Built CJ-7 (Big Dogg, modified 360, NV4500, 4.56'd 9" axles with ARB's), he's stuck, and all of the rim is exposed. The next shot is the rim completely missing, buried under the snow, but the jeep never moved.
This first pic was of a trail with about 1.5' of snow on it, TJ kept up with the larger CJ's very easily.
This one is wheeling at Sunday River (near the ski resort), lots of fun, and some hairy water and river crossings as well.
This last one is of Kimball's mountain. We had to hit the hill in 4th gear, low range, with as much speed as possible just to make it up. The top was blown clear of snow, it was all on the side!
Winter Harbor, Maine
'81 CJ-8 Scrambled!
It's a Jeep, Chevy, IHC kinda thing!