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post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-24-2000, 09:18 PM
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Hard wireing my 8274

I just got a 8274. The prob is that the pos. and neg. leads are to short to wire directly to the battery

What I ws thinking was that I could ground the winch to one of the motor mount bolts that enters the block.

The pos is another problem. Could I join 2 cables to gether to make it to the battery?
I would have the one from the winch (the end is a flat spade with the hole) joined to the other cable with a bolt/nut combo, and on to the side term of my Optima
It sound s a lil pieced together, I was wondering if this would be OK
Would rather not take it apart and give it a longer lead if possible
What would you suggest



Chu
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YJ-7
HEI, 32/36, Centerforce,
Rear Scout 44, Front 30 geared and locked
Warn axles, 8274, T-18, 35 MT/Rs, York set-up, ect...


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post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-24-2000, 10:08 PM
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Re: Hard wireing my 8274

In my opinion, I really don't see why your method of extending the cables wouldn't work as long as you covered the exposed connections to avoid shorting something out among other things. I'm not too familiar with the 8274, so don't really know how the cables hook into the winch itself, but if it's possible, I'd seriously look into replacing the shorter cables with longer ones to hook directly to the battery for obviously better conections all around. However, that may not be the case with this particular winch.

Another recommendation I have is to hook the cable(s) going to the batter to the TOP posts and not the SIDE posts. The reasoning behind this is during some winching situations, the winch is used continously for a lengthy period of time. Therefore, this extended use can cause heat to build up, and from what I've seen before, those side posts on batteries aren't as durable as the top posts. In the end, the heat can destroy the side posts easier, thus ruining your battery. Just something to think about...

--Digger--


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post #3 of (permalink) Old 12-24-2000, 10:23 PM
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Re: Hard wireing my 8274

Do what I did with my winch, I've had it this way for 15 years. Just run the pos. to the starter solenoid on the fender. Hook it up to the same terminal as the lead from the battery to the solenoid.


Brad
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 12-24-2000, 11:27 PM
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Re: Hard wireing my 8274

Thats a great idea
I just wasnt sure if that would be OK
Will finish that tomorrow

Chu
[email protected]
YJ-7
HEI, 32/36, Centerforce,
Rear Scout 44, Front 30 geared and locked
Warn axles, 8274, T-18, 35 MT/Rs, York set-up, ect...


post #5 of (permalink) Old 12-25-2000, 03:17 PM
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Re: Hard wireing my 8274

Pros: It costs less money to use 2 cables rather than one.
Cons: It costs less money to use one cable rather than two.

Now those statements may sound Oxymoronish, but let's look at it in another way...over the life of the winch while it's on the Jeep.

If you use two cables, and the engine block ground, you've just introduced electrical connections. These connections aren't pristene, nor will they stay that way. Voltage drops will develop. It's not a question of if, or how, but when.

It takes due dilligance keeping a Jeep's electrical system intact so why build in any problems?

The system you propose might never let you down, but dollars to donuts, it will. You've elected to drop all the winch current over a minium of three more connections rather than run a good, individual, ground and hot lead. The chances of winch failure or electrical cable failure and ground connection failure have just risen expotenially.

If you want maximum current delivered from the battery to the winch, run individual cables. Run the biggest diameter wire you can afford to buy. Making up your own cables is not a hard job, nor does it all all that much more epense rather than buying manufactured cables. Go to your local welding supply shop, buy the connectors and the wiring by the foot... and follow the countermans guidelines. Pick his brain a little, after all they deal with electrical arc welders day in and day out. They know what does and does not work in the real world.

Do yourself a favor, do it right the first time. You'll be money, time and frustration ahead over the life of the install. I don't think you'll regret the decision.

Happy Holidays and Safe Jeepin'

Larry
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 12-25-2000, 10:32 PM
 
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Re: Hard wireing my 8274

I'm glad to see the Welding supply store has caught on!
This will save more problems than nearly anyone knows!!
------------------------------------

Here is your problem...
All manufacturers do NOT want to hear from you again until you are ready to buy a new what-ever.
They certainly don't want to hear from you when you have problems.
To keep the number of warranty claims, tech and complaint calls to a minimum, they say things like, "Connect directly to battery"....
And then only put as long of wire on the device they want you to use...

MSD does it, we do it, and everybody else does it....
------------------------------------

If the unit will pull X amount of amperage at Y amount of voltage, through cables that are size Z, then you only put cables on your device that won't starve your device.
Any longer cables, and your device will be starved for current, so they simply figure out how long the average wires need to be, use a cable large enough to feed the device at that 'average' distance, and whack them off there.
(Average Distance = One Size Fits Nothing...)
-------------------------------------

Your problem is you are not the typical install length.
-----------------------------------


(electrical engineers in the crowd, back me up on this one....)

If you add the same size cable, or smaller cable to what's on the device, you will starve it for current.
If you add the same size cable, only longer, you will starve the device for current, so rewiring it (even though it's the 'Tim Allen' thing to do), isn't the answer..
.............................................

If you need to extend your reach, then here is the ONLY acceptable way to do it.

Carry the voltage with sufficient amperage potential to the device.
Use larger, say, two American Wire Gauge (AWG) sizes Larger (smaller number) than what the device has, connect that wire to the battery, and run it within a comfortable distance of the device. (Smaller the number, the bigger the wire)

By running the 'fat' wire to the device, and shortening the factory wire, you are going to do better than if you used the entire wire supplied with the device, because you have lessened the resistance of the smaller wire...
This will kill two birds with one stone.
You get your power supply to the device, and you lessen the stress on the device by shortening the factory small gauge cable.

If you use two sizes larger wire than what came on the device, you should have no problems.
Use good solid copper connectors, crimp them, then silver solder them.
NEVER USE ACID CORE SOLDER ON ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS.
Use heat shrink tubing on the electrical joint to weather proof it, and you have a bullet-proof connection.

A word about the joints...
Don't settle for less than solid copper connections. Some times they are lead, tin or zinc plated to stop corrosion, but use solid copper connectors.
Crimp your connections. Most parts supply or welding supply stores will custom crimp your connections.
A crimp is a mechanical connection, and keeps the wire from pulling out of the connectors.

Silver solder your connections.
This makes a proper electrical connection out of a mechanical joint.
Using silver solder will keep more of the corrosion out of your joints, and silver solder will connect almost anything.

Use heat shrink tubing.
Use the industrial type if you can find it. It has a 'Glue' in it that seals out moisture, and is much more abrasion resistant.
Here is a tip, if you have a place on the wire that is going to rub hard on something, slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the spot, even though there is no break in the insulation, and shrink it. You can also slip a piece of tin or aluminum around the wire before you use the heat shrink for even more protection.
-----------------

A word about the wiring...
Most wiring and cable is sized with the American Wire Gauge (AWG) system.
The larger the number, the smaller the wire.

If you use welding cable, instead of 'battery' cable, you will do much better....
Welding cables are required to handle heavy amp loads, so they are fine strand wire, and can conduct amperage much better.
Welding cables are dragged across every kind of sharp edges, hot surfaces, frozen, dragged on concrete floors, run over on a regular basis and everything else you can think of, so they have much better oil, abrasion, and heat resistance.

Use welding cable when you can, it's just far superior to anything one the 'consumer' market, and every area in the country has a welding supply store locally. Check the yellow pages.
They won't break it off in you for price either, and usually carry the connectors and other things you will need.

A word about the ground wire...
DON'T SHORT CHANGE YOUR WIRING!
What ever you use for the positive, use for the negitive.
If the power gets in, it has to get out, so don't short change your ground wires!

SO....................

If you have 10 AWG wire on the winch (Common), use a set of 6 AWG wires from the battery to within a foot or so of the winch (or where ever it's comfortable) and connect the winch to the larger power leads you had made up.
(American Wire Gauge sizes jump two at a time in most common cases.)
Remember, with high amperage wiring, the larger the wire (Smaller the number) the better off you will be.
If you remove some of the small factory wiring from your winch, you will be doing it (and yourself) a favor.




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post #7 of (permalink) Old 12-26-2000, 12:01 PM
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Re: Hard wireing my 8274

Just replace the cables. The only part that has to be removed is the plastic solenoid cover. Three screws and you have access to the winch end of the power cables. Less work than splicing wires together.

'75 CJ5,258 w/Howell EFI,T18a,4.27's,33's,On-board air,Warn 8274
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