Re: Hard wireing my 8274
I'm glad to see the Welding supply store has caught on!
This will save more problems than nearly anyone knows!!
Here is your problem...
All manufacturers do NOT want to hear from you again until you are ready to buy a new what-ever.
They certainly don't want to hear from you when you have problems.
To keep the number of warranty claims, tech and complaint calls to a minimum, they say things like, "Connect directly to battery"....
And then only put as long of wire on the device they want you to use...
MSD does it, we do it, and everybody else does it....
If the unit will pull X amount of amperage at Y amount of voltage, through cables that are size Z, then you only put cables on your device that won't starve your device.
Any longer cables, and your device will be starved for current, so they simply figure out how long the average wires need to be, use a cable large enough to feed the device at that 'average' distance, and whack them off there.
(Average Distance = One Size Fits Nothing...)
Your problem is you are not the typical install length.
(electrical engineers in the crowd, back me up on this one....)
If you add the same size cable, or smaller cable to what's on the device, you will starve it for current.
If you add the same size cable, only longer, you will starve the device for current, so rewiring it (even though it's the 'Tim Allen' thing to do), isn't the answer..
If you need to extend your reach, then here is the ONLY acceptable way to do it.
Carry the voltage with sufficient amperage potential to the device.
Use larger, say, two American Wire Gauge (AWG) sizes Larger (smaller number) than what the device has, connect that wire to the battery, and run it within a comfortable distance of the device. (Smaller the number, the bigger the wire)
By running the 'fat' wire to the device, and shortening the factory wire, you are going to do better than if you used the entire wire supplied with the device, because you have lessened the resistance of the smaller wire...
This will kill two birds with one stone.
You get your power supply to the device, and you lessen the stress on the device by shortening the factory small gauge cable.
If you use two sizes larger wire than what came on the device, you should have no problems.
Use good solid copper connectors, crimp them, then silver solder them.
NEVER USE ACID CORE SOLDER ON ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS.
Use heat shrink tubing on the electrical joint to weather proof it, and you have a bullet-proof connection.
A word about the joints...
Don't settle for less than solid copper connections. Some times they are lead, tin or zinc plated to stop corrosion, but use solid copper connectors.
Crimp your connections. Most parts supply or welding supply stores will custom crimp your connections.
A crimp is a mechanical connection, and keeps the wire from pulling out of the connectors.
Silver solder your connections.
This makes a proper electrical connection out of a mechanical joint.
Using silver solder will keep more of the corrosion out of your joints, and silver solder will connect almost anything.
Use heat shrink tubing.
Use the industrial type if you can find it. It has a 'Glue' in it that seals out moisture, and is much more abrasion resistant.
Here is a tip, if you have a place on the wire that is going to rub hard on something, slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the spot, even though there is no break in the insulation, and shrink it. You can also slip a piece of tin or aluminum around the wire before you use the heat shrink for even more protection.
A word about the wiring...
Most wiring and cable is sized with the American Wire Gauge (AWG) system.
The larger the number, the smaller the wire.
If you use welding cable, instead of 'battery' cable, you will do much better....
Welding cables are required to handle heavy amp loads, so they are fine strand wire, and can conduct amperage much better.
Welding cables are dragged across every kind of sharp edges, hot surfaces, frozen, dragged on concrete floors, run over on a regular basis and everything else you can think of, so they have much better oil, abrasion, and heat resistance.
Use welding cable when you can, it's just far superior to anything one the 'consumer' market, and every area in the country has a welding supply store locally. Check the yellow pages.
They won't break it off in you for price either, and usually carry the connectors and other things you will need.
A word about the ground wire...
DON'T SHORT CHANGE YOUR WIRING!
What ever you use for the positive, use for the negitive.
If the power gets in, it has to get out, so don't short change your ground wires!
If you have 10 AWG wire on the winch (Common), use a set of 6 AWG wires from the battery to within a foot or so of the winch (or where ever it's comfortable) and connect the winch to the larger power leads you had made up.
(American Wire Gauge sizes jump two at a time in most common cases.)
Remember, with high amperage wiring, the larger the wire (Smaller the number) the better off you will be.
If you remove some of the small factory wiring from your winch, you will be doing it (and yourself) a favor.
"I Have The Body Of A God... Buddha"