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post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-23-2000, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
 
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convert to hydraulic clutch-websites?writeups?

My clutch linkage pulled apart twice on our last run. The bellcrank is separating from the pivot point mounted on the transmission bellhousing. I suspected a motor mount, and found the driver's side slightly separated. Upgraded to MORE Bombproof mounts, installed this morning. Warmed jeep up, hopped in to take a ride, pushed clutch pedal in and it happened again. URGH!

Linkage was upgraded six months ago, using I believe 4plus stuff (new bellcrank and pushrod, with heim joints). I want to junk the whole setup and convert to hydraulic. References and advice would be welcomed. What is needed? I believe different pedal assembly, master and slave cylinders? Is that it?

Max

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-23-2000, 02:02 PM
 
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Re: convert to hydraulic clutch-websites?writeups?

You will find that a hydraulic slave cylinder is really no better, but I see it praised here a lot.

When we do one around here, we use a hydraulic throw out bearing.
With large lines, it's fast, reliable, easy to install, and other than checking the master cylinder fluid level, it's virtually maintenance free.
You will find a write up on this very subject in "Mustang & Fords" magazine, due out on shelves in about a month.
Look for the Feb. 2000 issue, and starts on page 64. It has sources and instructions for the basic install.
Mustangs & Fords magazine is an EMAP-USA publication.

(Good articles on upholstery and VIN coding on fords in it too.)

No more linkage, fork, misalignment, or uneven wear problems.


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post #3 of (permalink) Old 12-23-2000, 02:22 PM
 
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Re: convert to hydraulic clutch-websites?writeups?

jaffer has a good sight showing hot to do it, its monsterslayer.com I think.

does any one know where to get rebuild kits for the master and slave cylinders used in 80-81 Cjs?

I found the stuff in a junkyard, I bout them as cores, but I was thinking I could rebuild if they are like most kits $5-8 range.

the components are made by Girling, so parts should be avaiulable, I can get rebuild stuff for my MGB Girling hydraulic stuff for under $5.


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post #4 of (permalink) Old 12-23-2000, 03:24 PM
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Re: convert to hydraulic clutch-websites?writeups?

Link to John Foutz (Jaffer) page:
http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep

Brad
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 12-25-2000, 09:09 PM
 
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Re: convert to hydraulic clutch-websites?writeups?

See what I mean about the slave cylinder set up?
If you use a hydraulic throw out bearing, you eliminate all of the mechanical linkage that can be damaged by off roading.
It's usually a one hose set up, it's easy to install, and tough as nails.

The hydraulic throw outs are used in all sorts of industrial applications, so if you want to get the price down over the pre assembled 'kits', you can pick out the parts from say, a Tri-State bearing catalog, or even Granger.
Many of the car factories use hydraulic throw out's, so finding a factory unit that will work is very possible... Maybe even a junkyard special, if someone finds out what will work....

The hydraulic throw out bearing's hydraulic cylinder pushes more evenly on the throw out bearing, and the bearing lasts MUCH longer.
So do the pilot bushing, front transmission bearings and seals, and the clutch and pressure plates themselves, and much more precise control over the clutch.
Not to mention the vibration that a misaligned 'clutch' fork causes that you DON'T have in the system anymore.... And all clutch forks are misaligned, that's how they work....
Make no mistake about it, clutch forks are early 1700's technology....

No bent or separated forks, no more worn forks, no more clutch adjustments, no more broken linkage, no more pivot ball problems, no more 'Gorilla Leg' from holding back a crappy old clutch.
You can throw the biggest, meanest clutch you can find in there, and your 10 year old daughter can hold the clutch pedal in.

Circle track and road racing is happy with them, no more linkage problems, even when the car takes a lick or gets twisted up.
(Like that is never going to happen while off-roading!)
If you use large enough line and fittings (like the drag racing guys do) the engage/ release times are incredible.

To me, using a slave cylinder on a mechanical fork and throw out bearing is just doing half the job....
Why leave all those moving parts in that have to be adjusted and maintained, and all of them are wear parts...

Just my $0.02 worth....
And it's worth exactly what you paid for it!!

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