Re: Anyone in NYC area that can help Install Weber
Not in NYC to help, but wanted to pass on that you can probably do this yourself. I have less experience in things like that (definitely not a mechanic) than you describe yourself as having, but I was able to do it myself. Granted, I spent many hours BEFORE the swap researching in my Haynes and Chilton manuals to be sure I knew what EVERYTHING connected to the BBD was for, to see if I would need it with the Weber (highly recommend doing that). There are a lot of electrical connections just hanging loose now, since the Weber isn't computer controlled.
Mine's a '90 so you have pretty much the same set-up I think. First, be sure to replace your fuel filter. Also, I didn't have to drain any coolant out of the system, as it says to do in step 3. Not sure why it says to. Removing the old carb is pretty straightforward. Then, dry-fit all the new parts (no sealant) and make sure you know where they all go before sealing anything. I did the dry-fit twice - once on my livingroom floor, and once on the engine. I set the whole thing up dry, including linkages and everything, and only when I was comfortable, I took everything apart again to seal it with gasket sealer.
Here's the things that remained connected to my Weber: the automatic choke wire, the fuel line, the carb float vent tube, and the PCV hose (from the valve). The PCV filtered air tube, and the pulse air tubes are hooked into the new K&N filter that came with the kit.
Your vacuum advance tube (from distributor) does not connect to the carb, though there is a port for that on it. On the '83 - '88 (and my '90 apparently) the instructions say to leave it connected to the manifold vacuum port that it uses already (ie no change). Just cap off that vacuum source on the carb (brass tube located under the choke housing) with the supplied cap.
You can remove all the vacuum lines and sensors that were associated with the air pan, and the one to the EGR valve. There's also one left over that used to run from the BBD to a connection on the firewall above the rear of your engine block. Remove that and cap the connection. Also remove the vac line that went to the BBD sole-vac unit, and plug off where it connected. The only thing left connected to the CTO valve is the hose to the charcoal filter canister under the washer fluid bottle. Cap off the other CTO valve connections.
Pulse Air Tubes: Have to drill holes in the lid of the air filter if you want to connect them. That's what I did, but sounds like many people just connect them to their own separate filter, or remove them entirely. Hindsight tells me I should have given them their own filter because they can blow back nasty stuff right down the throat of your carb if the reed valves fail.
PCV clean air source: air filter has a hole for a connection, but on the far side. Had to run a hose a circuitous route from rear of engine to front side of carb mounting plate. Works, but looks cluttered. Also splatters oil into air filter housing. I put a small piece of foam filter in the screw cap to keep oil out. Seems to work OK, but would rather have had a separate filter for that, too.
- I found I needed more vacuum caps than came with the kit. Buy a set or two.
- The Weber throttle linkage is towards the back, while the old bracket for the throttle return spring was on the front. Just move the bracket from the front EGR valve bolt that it currently shares, and move it to the rear one facing rearward. Trim a piece of it off so it doesn't interfere with the throttle linkage. Work all this out during the dry-fit. Buy a new spring at the parts store (they should have provided one in the kit). Mine was old and rusty.
- Also, you'll have to switch the fuel inlet stem so it points towards the passenger side - that's easy. Just swap it and the brass plug.
I hope I didn't scare you! This really is pretty simple, just educate yourself first. You should have seen the look on my face when that sucker fired up on the first try! I even did a little dance I was so proud of myself (my wife found that amusing). If you have any specific questions let me know. This carb is the best thing I ever did for my Jeep, you'll love it too.
90 YJ, 258 I6. Weber 32/36, the rest is stock Sahara.