Narrowing a D44 REAR? - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
Jeep-Short Wheelbase All discussion of short wheelbase Jeeps: CJ, TJ, YJ and JK

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-20-2000, 10:55 AM
**DONOTDELETE**
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Narrowing a D44 REAR?

I've seen tons of info on narrowing D44 fronts, but have any of you narrowed a Rear D44? I've got a Waggy rear that I want to narrow it 5" on one side only. Is it possible to reuse the ends/bearing housings? Do they slip in the tube, over the tube or are they butt-welded, from the factory? I've seen alittle on the D60 and racers have a source for brand new ends, I'm wondering if something similar is available for D44's?
Thanks, Devin

Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-20-2000, 02:45 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Posts: 586
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Narrowing a D44 REAR?

When narrowing front 44's you can simply cut the end off, cut the tube and weld it back together. (I know there is more involved) On rear 44's the tubing flairs out towards the end to fit the bearings/seals/etc. When shorten rears the tube must be removed at the pumpkin area and cut down, inserted and rewelded so you won't be doing anything to the other end. Then have the shaft cut down and resplined.
Now 5 inches is a good bit of tube to remove on one side. Are you sure your pinnion will end up behind the transfercase?

Pigpen
Pigpen is offline  
post #3 of (permalink) Old 12-20-2000, 02:57 PM
**DONOTDELETE**
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Narrowing a D44 REAR?

Pigpen,
I didn't know you could get the tubes out of the diff housing? Must be messy getting a press on the inside of the housing! As far as the pinion distance goes, the waggie rear that I'm dealing with is 60" wide and has a pretty good off-set now. By cutting all 5" off the drivers side, I still end up with the pinion 3" off-set on the passenger side and thats with a rear that's 2" narrower than my front.
I would prefer to get a Scout rear, but they are difficult to find around here. It seems that around here, anybody that has a Scout, is still driving it.
Thanks for your response,
Devin

Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of (permalink) Old 12-20-2000, 03:10 PM
**DONOTDELETE**
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Narrowing a D44 REAR?

It sounds like you got a Waggie axle that was run with a Quadratrac t-case. Since the Scout 44's are hard to find, would it be easier to find a Waggie rear that has a centered pinion?

'75 CJ5,258 w/Howell EFI,T18a,4.27's,33's,On-board air,Warn 8274
post #5 of (permalink) Old 12-20-2000, 03:24 PM
**DONOTDELETE**
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Narrowing a D44 REAR?

I call it a waggie, but it's actually a '76 cherokee, with a T-18 and a Dana 20 transfer case. There is a small amount of un-natural offset in the rear driveshaft, but not much. I didn't look for offset, when I bought it, I'd never heard anyone mention that anything other than centered was out there. So Yes I would like to find something else, but I really don't have a big budget. I figured I'd either narrow this one to accomodate some flatty in need of offset, then sell/trade it, or just make due with an un-natural offset in my rig. One way or the other, I need to narrow it to get any worth out of it. As far as finding a centered waggie rear, believe me I'm going to be looking around to see if I got a weird one or what...
Thanks for your post,
Devin

post #6 of (permalink) Old 12-21-2000, 07:20 AM
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Posts: 586
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Narrowing a D44 REAR?

As for pulling the axle tube It's not that difficult. The pumpkin has two quarter size divits on each side by the tubes. When the tubes inserted the divits are filled with weld and then the tubes are welded around the outside of the housing. Shops will just torch out the old weld and bang out the tube.

Pigpen
Pigpen is offline  
post #7 of (permalink) Old 12-22-2000, 02:42 AM
Nickmil
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Narrowing a D44 REAR?

On the dana 44's there are about 5 or 6 rosette welds on each tube that hold the tube in place in the pumpkin. you can torch out the welds no problem. Most professionals carbon arc the welds out but for the diy'er torch works ok if going to cut the tubes. You will need a large press with the appropriate sized puck to press out the tube. I've even used a 3/4" drive socket with a bunch of extensions to press the tube out. If you bang on the flange you will bend the end as these tubes are pressed in tight from the factory. I've seen centersections break from pressing if all the weld is not cut out. After you cut the tube you will have to machine them with a slight interference fit to fit the centersection properly. If this isn't done you chance breaking the centersecton when the tubes are pressed in. At least measure them and see how much interference you have. I recommend no more than 4 thousandths but that's just my opinion. If you look, you will see many dana tubes are machined from the factory to fit the centersections due to variances in manufacturing and castings. Much the same way you bore a block to fit the pistons when rebuilding an engine. Much of this can be done at home if you have some of the basic tools. I don't want to discourage you, just let you know what to expect up front. When I did my first axle about 8 years ago it was a real eye opener. Good luck.
Nickmil.

post #8 of (permalink) Old 12-22-2000, 08:54 AM
Keyboard Implanted
 
dave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Vancouver, Washingon
Posts: 2,346
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Narrowing a D44 REAR?

I'm just a little curious about a 76 Cherokee rear Dana 44. I think the Cherokee Chief (2 door) would be the "Wide Track Version" for the full sized Jeeps. I might not be 100% correct about the Cherokee Chief, but I am 100% correct about some full sized Jeeps having a "Wide Track Version" axle width wider than most full sized Jeeps.

I've had a 76 Jeep Cherokee axle narrowed to CJ5 narrow track width. I admit I had Dutchman Motorsports http://www.dutchmanms.com in Portland Oregon do the narrowing. I actually used two different Dana 44's for my axle. I started with a Scout II Dana 44 that had both the tubes damaged by loose U-Bolts and a 76 Cherokee rear Dana 44. I salvaged the axles, brakes, 3.73 gears and Dutchmans cut outer ends from the Scout II rear end. The Scout II outer ends were then welded by Dutchmans onto the 76 Cherokee tubes that had been measured and cut to CJ5 narrow track widths.

The salvaged parts from the Scout II rear Dana 44 allowed me to have 5 on 5 1/2 bolt pattern. The Scout II axles are long enough to be cut and re-splined to CJ narrow track width. Having the Scout II outer axle tube ends welded onto the narrowed Cherokee Dana 44 allows me to use Scout II rear brakes and outer wheel bearings. For all practial purposes I've converted the Cherokee rear Dana 44 to a narrowed Scout II rear end for parts purposes. So if I need any parts for my narrowed rear end, I just use the make, model and year of the Scout II.

I'm not an expert on narrowing Dana 44 rear ends, but Dutchmans is. I'm sure that there method of welding ends on cut housing tubes is safe and strong. Dutchmans has been in business for many years and has welded housing tubes by the thousands by now. The total cost for having the Scout II rear axles cut and re-splinded along with the Dana 44 housing cutting and welding work was less than $200. I live close to Dutchmans, so I did not have to pay frieght.
dave

dave is offline  
post #9 of (permalink) Old 12-22-2000, 12:39 PM
Nickmil
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Narrowing a D44 REAR?

Your right Dave,
Dutchman does do fine work. Nothing wrong with doing it the way you describe, just takes lots of specialized equipment like machined lineup bars and centering pucks. A diy'er can do most of it himself if he wants to. We are fortunate to live close to shops that do this work (I live in Milwaukie, just south of Portland). Problem is a lot of these people have to pay shipping and on a complete (or almost complete rear axle) that is expensive. I shipped a pair of completed diffs to Florida this summer and it cost over $500 in freight. OUCH! That can easily double the cost of a project like this. Happy Holidays and hope to see you on the trail If I haven't already! Nickmil.

Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome