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post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-14-2000, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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TR do you have to have condensor?

My radio (stereo and CB) doesn't make any noise. Do I neer the condensor @ all? Does it serve a real purpose?
Just wondering. You the man in the know![img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]


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post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-15-2000, 01:08 AM
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Re: TR do you have to have condensor?

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Dear Dog-That-Is-Dirty: I THINK a condensor is like that little air chamber that plumbers make by turning up a pipe and capping it so when you shut off the faucet real quick you don't get water hammer. A condensor helps keep the current from overrunning the switch points as they open, and acts as a buffer, a place for the current to go momentarily.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 12-15-2000, 06:04 AM
 
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Re: TR do you have to have condensor?

CJ Dave is correct with his plumbing analogy...

The capacitor just helps buffer the violent ON/OFF cycle of the ignition coil when it fires.
If it didn't, you hear the RF and magnetic interference in your radio.

If you don't hear it in your radio now, don't worry about it.
It's a curtesy part for creature comforts like radios and such, not a critical function part.

If you had a computer controlled fuel injection system, I'd say to put one on, but with just a carb, don't sweat it.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 12-15-2000, 07:42 AM
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Re: TR do you have to have condensor?

is that a remedy for homes that have an existing hammer problem, or something installed normally on day one. I have never seen that or even installed one! Insteresting though.

post #5 of (permalink) Old 12-15-2000, 08:07 AM
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Re: TR do you have to have condensor?

What condensor are you talking about?

Condensor are mere capacitors...they resist a change in voltage. When used correcty with a coil one can make a "Trap" for a certian frequency, or set of frequencies. So, the spark plugs or the alternator,or the coil are all emitting EMI, electro-magnetic interferrence (Sometiemes also called RFI, radio Frequency Interfrence). It's the job of the filter to trap the frequency(ies) and send the signal to ground while passing all the good stuff on to where it needs to be.

Now if you're taling about the "condensor" on the side of a points distributor... does the system need a condensor?
Well, yes and no...

A points system will work without a condensor, just not for very long. The points are nothing but a pair of contacts that open and close. This "pulses" the coil with some pretty high current, in a loose kinda way, and the coil then sparks the plugs. Now, the purpose of the condensor is to mitigate the effect of the high voltage passing through the set of points contacts. It's kind of like a current bypass, to allow the changing current (flux) to dissiapte without haveing to go throgh the points. Without the condensor the points rapidly burn out as the current destroys them, arc by arc by arc.

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Re: TR do you have to have condensor?

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Normally, good plumbers can anticipate where hammer is likely to occur and provide air chamber risers. You can, however, install a "Squish Chamber" after-the-fact on just about any plumbing system by being a little creative. For example, if the washer fill valves hammer like crazy, you can make up a tee arrangement and put it right at the valve or even as a drop-in section where the hose connects. If the dishwasher hammers, you can put a riser under the sink by adding a street tee to the wall cock. Water hammer is enhanced by velocity and long straight runs of pipe. Water is like a freight train, it doesn't like to stop against a deadwall; needs a little squish area.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]There is a bladder tank that is made specifically for keeping water systems hydro-pneumatic over time. Since water will gradually absorb air at the air-water interface and make the squish chamber inneffective, the self-contained air bladder helps to prevent that.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 12-15-2000, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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Re: TR do you have to have condensor?

Hey thanks. That what I thought, but now I know.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]


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post #8 of (permalink) Old 12-15-2000, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Re: TR do you have to have condensor?

Hey CJDave, I wash.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img]
(sniff,sniff)Maybe I will go take a shower.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/blush.gif[/img][img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]


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post #9 of (permalink) Old 12-15-2000, 01:20 PM
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Re: TR do you have to have condensor?

I do get a crackle in my radio that goes up and down with the engine RPM. Would a condensor on the coil help and if it would where do I go about getting one. I tried some parts stores one time with no luck. Only thing they had was a condensor looking thing that goes on the alternator and it did nothing. 79 CJ7 304

post #10 of (permalink) Old 12-16-2000, 04:05 PM
 
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Re: TR do you have to have condensor?

*topfuel7* asked,

*I do get a crackle in my radio that goes up and down with the engine RPM. Would a condenser
on the coil help*

OK, Here is the rub, bub...
If you get radio noise in both the AM and FM band, but not the Tape Player or CD, it's probably ignition noise. (Radio Frequency Interference- RF or RFI for short)
The AM Band in particular will amplify air gap RFI.

RF is created when an electrical charge is emitted to open air, like when the spark energy has to jump from the carboned up rotor nose to the corroded up sparkplug terminals inside the distributor cap, that has no shielding.
Bad plug wires or bad plug wire connections will do the same thing.
Spark plugs gone bad outside of the heads will do it too.

(Correctly working spark plugs DON'T do it because they are encased in a solid iron engine block, and the RF can't penetrate the 'Ground' field)

Try putting a little dab of dielectric grease on the rotor nose, and if that doesn't help, get a good set of plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, because you have an open in the field somewhere...
---------------------------

If you can hear the noise when the Tape Deck or CD is playing (like the blank spot at the end of an album, or between tracks, it's a power circuit.
When high draw things like the ignition coil switches on and off real fast, it will cause a noise in the electrical system that can be heard through your speakers.

A capacitor will help this condition by buffering the On/Off cycling noise from the electrical devices.
-----------------------------

*and if it would where do I go about getting one. I tried some parts stores one time
with no luck. Only thing they had was a condenser looking thing that goes on the alternator and it did nothing.*

Go to the parts store, and ask for the condenser that goes on the ignition coil for say, a '92 Ford Tarus, and see what they come up with...
The Ford dealership, or the junk yard may be a source if you can't find one anywhere else.
-----------------------------

Some other tips...

Twist your wiring from the distributor pick-up, and keep it close to the engine block if at all possible.
Keep the Pick-up wiring away from the spark plug wiring and the coil and coil wire.

Keep your spark plug wires away from each other, and any ground. If at all possible, keep them separated by at least 3/4".

Keep the plug wire boots greased with a good dielectric grease ('Tune Up' Grease).

Don't use metal wire looms to separate your spark plug wires.
Use the plastic type with plastic risers.
If it is metal, it's a ground, and too close to the plug wires.

Make sure your distributor cap and plug connections 'Snap' into place.
If you don't get the 'Snap', then you bought too cheap a set of plug wires, or you didn't install them correctly.

Never bend a spark plug wire at 90 degrees or more, and never kink a spark plug wire.
You will break or damage the inner conductor.
Bends should be done at a 3" radius if possible (but not always possible).

Never pull or stretch a plug wire for the same reason, always pull on the boots.
If it slides up the wire, pull on the connector, but never pull on the wire.

Never allow your plug wires to touch the exhaust manifold.
(or anything else metal or hot)


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