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post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-13-2000, 05:27 PM
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do I need the spindles for this swap?

I am wanting to swap the front disc brakes from a Dana 30 over to my my front Dana 30 with drum brakes. I was just curious if I would need the spindles to perform this swap.
THANX in Advance


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post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-13-2000, 05:39 PM
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Re: do I need the spindles for this swap?

The inner wheel bearing is different for the discs, so the answer is yes, change the spindles. If you go with the 77-78 6 bolt caliper style they will bolt on, but you may need to grind the knuckle and caliper a bit for clearance. If you choose the newer 2 bolt style you'll need to swap knuckles as well. Good luck.

76 CJ5,2.5" lift/Rancho 9000's,258/T-177/D300,HEI,Offy,Locked F&R
post #3 of (permalink) Old 12-13-2000, 06:54 PM
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Re: do I need the spindles for this swap?

The discs are from a friend of mines 1979 CJ-5. This is all I know about the rig. How can I tell if they are the two or six bolt calipers? I can overhaul my drums in about 25 minutes per wheel but I have not dealt with Disc brakes, ever.
THANX for your help

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 12-13-2000, 07:07 PM
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Re: do I need the spindles for this swap?

The 79 should have 2 bolt calipers. A service manual pic would clarify, but I'll explain briefly: The 2 bolt calipers operate from caliper brackets that bolt to the steering knuckle, unlike the 6 bolt, that as the name might imply fasten right over the "6" spindle bolts. You'll need the knuckles to make your 79 stuff work. The upside is that the 79 should have the desireable 6 bolt hubs (not to be confusing-not related to the brakes) This would be the ideal time to renew balljoints. Let me know if more info is needed.

76 CJ5,2.5" lift/Rancho 9000's,258/T-177/D300,HEI,Offy,Locked F&R
post #5 of (permalink) Old 12-15-2000, 02:21 PM
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Re: do I need the spindles for this swap?

How difficult are the knuckles to remove?

post #6 of (permalink) Old 12-15-2000, 02:36 PM
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Re: do I need the spindles for this swap?

Not as bad as you might think. The bores they bolt through are slightly oblong, so with a liberal application of penetrating oil remove the cotter pins and castle nuts, then wedge your ball joint separator (big pickle fork) and start pounding both sides the axle with 2 large hammers at the same time, this should make the bolt bores more round and release the ball joint bolts.(did that make any sense?)

76 CJ5 258 w/Clifford/Holley/HEI, 2.5"Lift/Rancho 9000s,T-177/Dana300
post #7 of (permalink) Old 12-15-2000, 03:50 PM
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Re: do I need the spindles for this swap?

Look up what the parts look like in a diagram, remove all the bolts attached to said part, and beat the $hit out of said part until it comes off. How did I do on the description of what to do?

post #8 of (permalink) Old 12-15-2000, 04:03 PM
 
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Re: do I need the spindles for this swap?

>>>>beat the $hit out of said part until it comes off. <<<<

That's pretty much it. Soaking with penetrating oil helped me a lot (used PB Blaster). Don't hit on the knuckle or on the ball. Hit all around the yoke ears and they will pop off.

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 12-15-2000, 06:40 PM
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Re: do I need the spindles for this swap?

Sorry for the excessive use of delicate language. I teach high school for a living, and despite all the attendant self restraint, I still managed to call one of my lovely cherubs a "F***ing Retard!!!!" as he nearly destroyed my beloved Powermatic vertical mill last week. Good luck with the BFH's.

76 CJ5,2.5" lift/Rancho 9000's,258/T-177/D300,HEI,Offy,Locked F&R
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