Just need some facts on Wranglers - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-13-2000, 10:21 AM
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Just need some facts on Wranglers

I'm looking at getting a Wrangler and just wanted to know what the biggest tires are I can fit on one w/o putting on a kit, and what the biggest tires are that I could run after a lift w/o wreaking havoc on the drivetrain. I'm not looking at changing differentials just yet. And, of course, lift kits. The factory specs. say the Wrangler sits @ 10" of clearance. I would like to get that number to about 16"-20". Is this possible for under $500? I'd like a do-it-yourself suspension kit (spring over, new springs, and/or shackle mod.), that won't tweak everything too far from factory specs. (except of course the clearance). FInally, how much difference in power is there between the 4banger the V-6 for the Wranglers. Factory specs. say about 70hp, but I'm would like an opinion from someone who has driven both. Also, anything else I should be aware of when getting a used Jeep? I'm going to be search for one w/ 3.7 factory gears and a trac-lock, but wanted to know if there are any factory goodies I should be aware of. Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-13-2000, 11:04 AM
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Re: Just need some facts on Wranglers

Starting with the obvious you're never going to get two feet of clearance with 35" tires. Halfway up the tire is the center of the axleshaft at 17.5". Add the diameter of the axle housing and the center pumpkin and you're around 12" of clearance. Even Hummers with their portal axles and 37's don't have two feet of clearance. The lowest gearset offered in a stock Wrangler is 4.10 and is only found with four-cylinders. The '97 and up Wranglers were available with the Dana 44 which will handle 35's if you aren't too abusive with the stupid pedal. The Dana 35 which is found in most will break with 31's if you aren't super careful. If you want a Wrangler with leaf springs (95 and older) you are stuck with the Dana 35. As far as lifts go, there is only one spring over kit available (Rubicon Express) and it does require welding. There is no such thing as a spring over kit which does not require welding. Spring over if done right will cost you much more than $500 even if you do it yourself and will require fabrication on your part. Finally, I personally don't know the HP and torque differences between the 6 cylinder (which is an inline 6 not a V6) and the 4 cylinder. One thing I do know is that I have never heard anyone swapping a six for a four if you get my drift.

'75 CJ5,258 w/Howell EFI,T18a,4.27's,33's,On-board air,Warn 8274
post #3 of (permalink) Old 12-13-2000, 11:18 AM
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Re: Just need some facts on Wranglers


Thanks for great tips. That's too bad about the axles. Just so you know, I did look up some of the factory specs. at the Jeep website and changed my original post a bit (although I don't know if the data applies to older Wranglers). Also, I realize the pumpkin only sits as high as the tires allow. I guess I'm more concerned with frame clearance for going over humps.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 12-13-2000, 11:21 AM
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Re: Just need some facts on Wranglers

This site might answer all your questions . . .
Wrangler info

I have driven both engines. I would definately go 4.0. You get basically the same gas mileage with almost twice the horse power. If you must go with the 2.5 it will work just fine, but if you want power at high speeds (passing ect) go 4.0. If you plan on getting bigger tires and travel on hills, winds, towing ect. will need the 4.0.

See Jayme ASAP
<font color=blue>C</font color=blue><font color=red>hase</font color=red><font color=blue>J</font color=blue><font color=red>eep</font color=red><font color=white>7</font color=white>
post #5 of (permalink) Old 12-13-2000, 12:10 PM
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Re: Just need some facts on Wranglers

It seems like when it comes to Jeeps they seem to get hung up on the transfer case skidplate. The rocker panels also take some hits if you're into rockcrawling. Luckily they are pretty light and it doesn't take much to push them off an obstacle. Just make sure that you have some sort of armor to avoid body damage. Going with 35's is a really good compromise of not being too top heavy and having enough clearance for most big obstacles. It is a bummer about Wranglers having weak axles. That and the rear slip yoke are the only real weaknesses though. They have great frames, better bodies than the CJ's (galvanized), and if you get one that's newer than 1990 it has the fuel injected six instead of a carburetor. Good luck with your search.

'75 CJ5,258 w/Howell EFI,T18a,4.27's,33's,On-board air,Warn 8274
post #6 of (permalink) Old 12-13-2000, 02:55 PM
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Re: Just need some facts on Wranglers

Get a 97 or newer wrangler. Get a 6 cylinder. Get a hard top, get air conditioning. You won't regret it and you will love it every time you drive it. I had an 83 scrambler for the past 3 years and sold it 3-4 weeks ago and got a 97 wrangler sahara. What a breath of fresh air. For the first time in 3 years I can think of something other than how I was going to get more power. Makes most of the posts on this board moot. I took it on some pretty steep trails over T-Day and it did everything I asked of it very well. Later

97 Wrangler
90 Bronco
post #7 of (permalink) Old 12-13-2000, 03:42 PM
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Re: Just need some facts on Wranglers

thats true bakes, but to proerly lift a tj to run 35's will cost MUCH more than $500.. and if thats a concern right off the bat, a tj, 4.0, hardtop....will run a lot of $$$..even used..

tj-7..tellico tested, uwharrie safaried..watch for improvements soon[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]..see it at http://www.jeepgod.net
oh yeah, and a 2000 tj, 4.0, dana 44, nv3550
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