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post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-07-2000, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Brake questions..hopefully last one

I still can not get my pedal to stop. It goes all the way to the floor(well almost).The jeep does stop, but I feel I need a little stiffer pedal.I bled the lines, and think I got the air out of the M/C.I did get longer front brake lines and I feel that this may be one of the culprits. My question is to see if there is a larger reservoir or master cylinder to fit my stock power brake booster..Or, what possibly am I doing wrong???
As always this help is much appreciated. Thanks in advance, Ricky...seeya...

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-07-2000, 08:49 PM
 
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Re: Brake questions..hopefully last one

how were your brakes before you changed the brake lines?
how does your emergency brake work? does it hold? go to the floor?
last one, how did you bleed the brakes, all 4, which ones 1st, just front 2? etc.....

i just don't want to make a guess on brakes [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 12-07-2000, 09:42 PM
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Re: Brake questions..hopefully last one

You didn't change the master cylinder did you? I mean, the way I read your post, it just went dry, but you didn't remove it. I'm assuming that the master cylinder and booster are stock set up, and that nothing has changed in that.
I'm not sure what you are talking about your proportioning valve. That should be mounted on your frame, I don't know why you'd remove/change that.
When you are bleeding the system, are you hearing/seeing any air coming out? When you are bleeding the brakes make sure you bleed the brake farthest away from the master cylinder than work your way back to the master cylinder.
Are your rear shoes adjusted all the way out? If you have them set too far in, the wheel cylinder will function, but not have enough travel to allow the brakes to really do you any good. That will cause you pedal to be low too...

Good luck.

DREW
IN2DEEP <font color=red>78 CJ5</font color=red> <font color=blue>302 FORD </font color=blue> [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] <font color=red> T176/D300 REAR ARB 35" BFGS </font color=red>
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 12-08-2000, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Brake questions..hopefully last one

Thanks for the replies. I have not changed anything as fas as the M/C or proportioning valve. They are stock. I bled the brakes as follows..Right rear, left rear,right front then left front. I think all of the air is out of the M/C. I did this by cracking each line one at a time, then applied pressure to the pedal. When the air quit and fluid came out I tightened it. I re-did this 2x.Then I went back and re-bled the lines again.
The rear brake adjustment was set so that there is a drag on the drums as the wheel rolls. The e-brake goes 3/4 down and holds well. I think I did this correctly, but there is still a problem. Is it that my new front lines are too long? I am going to try to drive my jeep this weekend in the 'hood then re-re-bleed the lines. Maybe there is some air still trapped somewhere???? Any speculation or help is appreciated. Thanks, Ricky...seeya...

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 12-08-2000, 08:16 AM
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Re: Brake questions..hopefully last one

The length of the front lines has no bearing on your problem. Once the lines are full of fluid, you are just moving the same amount of fluid into the calipers and back out. I'm guessing you have air trapped somewhere, because it seems like you are doing everything else right. Cracking the lines at the master cylinder works, but I've had better luck with the little hoses that come with a new master cylinder. I'd suggest doing this again if your problems continue,.... but I'm really running out of suggestions.

Good luck.

DREW
IN2DEEP <font color=red>78 CJ5</font color=red> <font color=blue>302 FORD </font color=blue> [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] <font color=red> T176/D300 REAR ARB 35" BFGS </font color=red>
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 12-08-2000, 08:17 AM
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Re: Brake questions..hopefully last one

Ricky, you said you bled the brakes..I am assuming you had someone help you right. It is a two person job unless your using a vacuum pump. The key is to have someone pump the brakes and hold to the floor while you crack open the bleeder screw. You can't let up on the pedal until the bleeder screw has been tightened again. If you did this correctly, then there is probably just more air in the lines that hasn't worked it's way down toward the bleeder screw yet. Since you let the master cylinder run dry, you will have a ton of air in those lines. Don't forget to add more brake fluid as you go, you don't want that cylinder to run dry again.

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 12-08-2000, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Brake questions..hopefully last one

Tommy, yes I did have help. Po boy like me ain't got no bleeder. I got a new jug of fluid, so I plan to do some major purgin'...Thanks for the input, Ricky...seeya...

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 12-08-2000, 09:37 AM
 
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Re: Brake questions..hopefully last one

Try this technique on your MC .....

1. Get a helper to jump in the Jeep and work the petal.
2. Back off the brake lines one turn (both of them).
3. Have your helper push the brake pedal to the floor.
4. Tighten both brake lines and have the helper release the brake.
Repeat 2-4 until the fluid streams out of both ports without "sputtering".


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post #9 of (permalink) Old 12-08-2000, 01:48 PM
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Re: Brake questions..hopefully last one

you might have ruined the seals on master cylinder when it was low on fluid.new one expensive but gotta have brakes.

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 12-08-2000, 11:42 PM
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Re: Brake questions..hopefully last one

I would put money on this: Your seals in you m/c are leaking fluid past them. Still holding enough to give press. to stop but making the pedal go to the floor. so in other words, your master cylender is just sloshing around fluid. They only cost about 30 dollars for new ones... thats what i paid. Just make sure you bench bleed it first. hope this helps you out a little.

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