Queston on TR Delco Alternator wiring diagram - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-03-2000, 11:02 PM
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Queston on TR Delco Alternator wiring diagram

Quick question to see if I did everything right. I just put a spanking new Delco alternator and a new battery in the CJ7 (304). My Question is this....I'm only getting 12.26 volts off the back of the alternator and I'm wondering if it because of how I wired the voltage regulator or if I have a brenc new bad alternator.

On TR's Delco wiring diagram it shows a wire coming from the Run accessory power (switched 12v source), going through an idiot light and then on to terminal A (aka terminal 1). It then shows a wire coming from the hot side of the horn relay to terminal B (aka terminal 2).

On some written instructions of TRs' (thanks TR for all the info by the way!) it states: "Find a wire that is only hot in the run position. (switched 12v source) Connect that wire with 2 leads. The first travels through the idiot light and then to terminal #1. The second travels from the switched source to the #2 terminal.

The way I understood the written instructions was to splice 2 wires into a switched 12v source. (I used the original wire in the painless harness that ran to terminal 1. It's a switched 12v source) Run one wire though an idiot light to terminal 1 and the second wire to terminal 2. (THIS IS HOW I HOOKED MINE UP)

The diagram shows two seperate sources for the terminals. Anybody know if the way I have it hooked up is causing the 12.25v output? I could go try it the other way but it's too cold out right now.

Thanks for all the help,
Jeff

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-05-2000, 09:40 PM
 
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Re: Queston on TR Delco Alternator wiring diagram

OK...
I've been asked this before, and I finally have the answer.

You have the wiring diagram from one install (Generic, the one you should be using), and the written instructions for a specific install for someone.
I know on at least one occasion I confused the issue by posting them together, and it may have happened more than once.
Sorry. My fault.

Follow the directions on the diagram I'm posting now.
It's real clear, and the #2 wire should go to the Horn Relay 'Hot' wire, or an equivalent.
This will give the regulator a proper reading of system voltage requirements.

I know this is confusing to some people, and even more so sense I got the wrong instructions out at one point, so , again, you have my apologies.

MAKE SURE YOUR 'IDIOT' LIGHT ISN'T GROUNDING THROUGH IT'S BRACKET!!
This is the #1 reason most installs don't work the first time.
You must get a light bulb socket that has two wires, and has a controlled ground.
If it can ground through it's bracket, it's useless.

For alternator testing, you can hook battery power up to the 'BATT' terminal, and then connect the #2 terminal to it.
THIS IS FOR TESTING ONLY! Do NOT run your alternator this way other than for testing.

You may not be getting enough resistance from your 'Idiot' light.
It takes about 150 Ohms min. to do the job. You may want to put a 1 watt- 150 ohm resistor inline with your idiot light to make sure.
The resistor can work just fine as a replacement for your light too, if you don't want to use the light, or can't find the correct light right now...

A resistor or light is also good for a test wire if you put one between the #1 terminal and the 'Batt' terminal.
DO NOT RUN YOUR ALTERNATOR THIS WAY EXCEPT FOR TESTING.

"I Have The Body Of A God... Buddha"
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