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post #1 of (permalink) Old 11-29-2000, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
I Might Just Know What I'm Talking About
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What I\'m STILL learning about my heater

You can't replace a 21 year old heater switch with a 22 year old switch off your parts jeep and expect it to last more than lets say, oh...1 DAY! After much bragging about my heater upgrade, thats how long it lasted in the deer woods. Good thing it was not too cold up there that week. Makes me wonder if the blazer motor might be more than the stock switch can handle. Naw, I'm sure it was that old rusty switch . When it went out, speeds 1&2, nothing. Turn it on high and it popped the fuses. Both switchs did the same thing.

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 11-30-2000, 09:23 AM
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Re: What I\'m STILL learning about my heater

I'm having the exact same problem. I've been through multiple fuses and my original and spare used heater switch. Gee... I wonder what's wrong here? Is it really the switch? Or does the new motor pull too much juice?

post #3 of (permalink) Old 11-30-2000, 11:29 AM
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Re: What I\'m STILL learning about my heater

I'm finishing up my fiberglass body swap and was concerned with the blower motor ground... the GM blower motor pulls a more current. I've run the GM blower on my Steel body CJ 4 years without a problem.

But yesterday I was thinking about the problem and took the switches from a 78 and a 83 CJ apart. The switches are EXACTLY the same. I would suggest you look at the spring inside the switch. It pushes the rotational contact ring against the contacts. IF the spring is rusted... it's compromised. If there has ever been water pouring over the dash... chances are it's rusted. It will weaken and cause the switch contacts to have resistance. The result is the contacts will become destroyed and so goes the switch.

I took my switch apart and found the spring was "OK", but the contacts were a little rough. I burnished them and packed the switch assembly with Spark Plug boot Dielectric grease, full to the gunnels and re-assembled it.

When finished, I did an Ohm's check on the switch and made sure the rotarty portion worked fine. That spring rests on a plastic piece that attaches to the knob shaft. If the spring ever starts to ground it heats up, and then melts the resting ponts... completing the ground. Then you have all the makings of a melt down. Look at the top of the new swtich assemmbly, there should be a hole in it. Use the hole to and fill the new switch with the grease. The switch is now much more moisture proof, will smothly glide over detents and contacts will not corrode.

I's suspect the biggest problem is in the ground return. I welded a 1/4" bolt to the blower motor housing. This acts as a grounding lug. Then I run a 16 ga. wire from the lug to the common ground. Works great.

Happy Holidays and Safe Jeepin'

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