Nodular 9" - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 10-15-2000, 10:06 AM
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Nodular 9\"

I just picked up a Nodular Iron 9" housing for old jeep and I was wondering, What welding rod should be used to weld on a Nodular Iron 9" housing?

The current spring purches are welded on so I am sure that it can be done.

Also can the housing be shortened?

Thanks
Mizu
www.trailhed.com

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 10-15-2000, 10:43 AM
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Re: Nodular 9\"

Nodular Iron refers only to the third member (pig, pumkin, dropout, etc.) A nodular housing is identified by an "N" cast into the webing above the pinion. The axle housing is an alloy steel that is easily weldable with MIG TIG or stick, if stick welding I would recommend a low hydrogen 70 series rod to minimize cracking at the spring perch.

good luck, jjc

post #3 of (permalink) Old 10-15-2000, 10:47 AM
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Re: Nodular 9\"

to anserw the second question, yes the housing can be shortened, there are several aftermarket outer bearing housings available to make the housing stronger when shortened.

good luck, jjc

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 10-15-2000, 12:19 PM
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Re: Nodular 9\"

I guess I was confused about the Nodular thing.

The 9" housing that I have is one piece. It has a welded seam from one end to the other.

Some 9" rear ends have welded in axle tubes and others are one piece?
Which is best?

The 9 I have is already shortened to 53.75 inches from flange to flange.

Should I have it shortened to the size of my current model 20?

Any suggestions will be much appreciated!

Here are three pictures of the 9
Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic 3

Thanks
Mizu


post #5 of (permalink) Old 10-15-2000, 12:26 PM
 
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Re: Nodular 9\"

Nodular, or 'N' case rear ends do refer to the third member, or the 'Hogs Head' (always hated that term)...
It will have an extra reenforcing web, and have a large (about 2" tall) 'N' cast into the iron housing right above the pinion bearing boss.

There is such a thing as a 'disguised N case', it has the extra webs, but it isn't nodular iron, so it doesn't have the 'N' cast into it at the foundry.
The 'N' on a real N case is raised, like most mold marks in cast iron. There were some guys counterfeiting 'N' case rear ends by grinding the 'N' into the housing, but that is easily spotted...

Remember, if it's real, it's raised.
-----------------------------

jjc is correct about the welding with low hydrogen, high nickel rods.
Do short welds, as not to warp the axle housing.

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 10-15-2000, 12:55 PM
 
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Re: Nodular 9\"

what was teh original application?
the truck rearends usually have a center section that is squared off where it joins the tubes, and has the bigger wheel bearings.

some car versions have a different 3rd member, where the tubes join it isnt as reinforced, and they use the smaller wheel bearings.

I looked at your first pic, but it was too dark for me to be able to tell anything from it.



OzarkJeep

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 10-15-2000, 01:01 PM
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Re: Nodular 9\"

If given the choice on housings, I would use the F100/E100 9 inch housings, the truck housing is much stonger, has bigger wheel bearings, the axles have 5 x 5 1/2 lug pattern, and plenty of length for shortening.

good luck, jjc

post #8 of (permalink) Old 10-15-2000, 01:21 PM
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Re: Nodular 9\"

I found in a 1950'ish car that some one was making into a hot rod. The rear end was not original and was cut to fit the car.
Here are some better pictures.
pic4
pic5
pic6
pic7
pic8
Mizu


post #9 of (permalink) Old 10-15-2000, 01:39 PM
 
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Re: Nodular 9\"

that doesnt look like any 9" Ford ive ever seen?

are you sure it isnt an old GM or Chrysler rear end?
they both made drop out 3rd member housings in that time period.


OzarkJeep

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 10-15-2000, 02:20 PM
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Re: Nodular 9\"

Ozark you are right, it is a GM rear end or in other words, just another f**king boat anchor.

I found the letters "GM" stamped right on the ring gear. Oh well it was free.

I am striking out with rear ends lately, I think I will have to make "Currie" a little richer and buy a 9" that is assembled from brake drum to friggin brake drum. Maybe then I will get it right!

Any help you guys can give me to help identify a 9 will be much appreciated.

Thanks for the help
Mizu


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