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post #1 of (permalink) Old 10-11-2000, 08:54 AM
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Starter noise on 258-6 cyl

When I start my 87 Wrangler the starter makes a terrible loud noise. I'm on my 2nd starter and have replaced the flywheel gear. Still have the noise.
I read about shimming the starter, but it seems if I shim it would only move the gears FURTHER away from each other.
Can someone help me understand how th do this to cure the noise thing?

Lowrange
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87 Wrangler, 4.2L, HEI, BA-10/5 (but not for long), Procomp lift, Procomp 3000's, Superwinch
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 10-11-2000, 09:13 AM
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Re: Starter noise on 258-6 cyl

If anyone has any ideas other than shimming...my ears are open. I just want to get this solved!!

Lowrange
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87 Wrangler, 4.2L, HEI, BA-10/5 (but not for long), Procomp lift, Procomp 3000's, Superwinch
post #3 of (permalink) Old 10-11-2000, 10:24 AM
 
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Re: Starter noise on 258-6 cyl

I hear your pain. My friend's CJ-7 did the same thing. He tried 2 different ring gears, and went through 2 starters. We even had to hot swap mine into his once when it finally gave up deep in the woods! He finally went with a Mean Green and hasn't had a problem since. Expensive solution but...
I suspect you have a cheap, rebuilt starter from Serv-U or Autozone..Try to exchange it for another one(should have a lifetime warrenty) or go with a new, not rebuld one.
This is a wierd problem that Jeeps have sometimes, and when people say to shim it, they obviously have never seen a jeep starter, since there is no way to adjust it as you have noted.
Bob in MA

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 10-11-2000, 11:37 AM
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Re: Starter noise on 258-6 cyl

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Sometimes you have a "tolerance buildup".....that is where you have a bellhousing that is .0025" closer to the crank, and the engine block crank hole is .001 closer to the starter, and the starter housing is .0025 off in the same direction. So that is .006 thousanths of an inch CLOSER OVERALL than design calls for. You see, INDIVIDUALLY, the parts are within tolerance....like they call for plus or minus .0015 on the prints.....but COLLECTIVELY they CAN go too far off if it just happens to turn out that way. Factories have ways of sorting the parts on a "tolerance basis" such that the short block goes with the long bellhousing and cancel each other out, but it can still occur as parts are replaced as they wear out. I suspect that you could try several different starters and one would be smooth as silk.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img]

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 10-11-2000, 02:32 PM
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Re: Starter noise on 258-6 cyl

Hey, thanks Bob & CJDave! I think I have figured out part of the puzzle and CJDave has the answer tp the rest. I went to a NAPA store today and asked about shims. He said GM & Chrysler use shims but I have a Ford starter. He thinks Jeep/AMC used both Ford or Chevy starters through the years.
I have a warranty on the starter so I'll take it back today and give it a try.
Thanks again.

Lowrange
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87 Wrangler, 4.2L, HEI, BA-10/5 (but not for long), Procomp lift, Procomp 3000's, Superwinch
post #6 of (permalink) Old 10-11-2000, 02:39 PM
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Re: Starter noise on 258-6 cyl

I have heard of shimming the starter on an AMC 6, but only on my buddy's old Rambler. [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]

Any chance that your ring gear or flexplate is on backwards? I don't recall if the ring gear is symmetric to the flexplate - mounting it one way or the other (if that's even possible) could put the ring gear further away from the starter.

I suspect your problem is more in the starter itself. The 87+ YJ used a mitsubishi starter, and it ain't cheap. [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] I've replaced mine, so I know. When mud and goop and crap and other swamp-type goodies enter your starter, they totally play havoc with all of the seriously heavy-duty plastic parts [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] That's been the problem with mine and guys I wheel with anyway, and we've had to take 'em apart and clean 'em out to get 'em to work again. You say you're on your second one though, so that's probably not it.

My guess is that the starter IS energizing enough to make the switch to let it turn over, but it IS NOT energizing enough axially (in the direction of the flywheel). I would take the starter out, clamp it in a vise, and actuate it with a battery and some jumper cables, and see if it energizes all the way when the gear pops out. BE CAREFUL. If it does, it's a block/ring gear/flexplate issue. If it don't, it's a starter issue. The linkages and stuff inside the starter that energize the gear are all plastic - it's pretty scary. [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]

Maybe you got a bad rebuild house and they made some errors.

I've even had starter problems because my motor was a grease-ball (before I rebuilt it, it leaked a lot of oil out the breather at the top due to blow-by). The oil would leak down the side of the block, and onto the starter. This wasn't a problem until winter came, when the oil in the starter got cold, and the starter wouldn't turn. [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] Of course, things only don't start when it gets cold [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img][img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] and you have to lay on the ground to remove the starter.

Just my opinion. Dave's tolerance issue could still be the thing too, but did it always do this? If not, then something has changed.

Good luck
Pete

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