Ford 8.8- Attn H8MONDAY, et al. - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-30-2000, 02:59 PM
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Ford 8.8- Attn H8MONDAY, et al.

Hello guys (and girls),
Just received my Ford 8.8 from a 95 Explorer (15K miles) with 3.73 and a trak-lok. My concern is that a few of the attachments on the axle are in pretty rough shape (purchased it from out-of-state BUT was "assured" it was in great working condition) from a front-hit Explorer.

The axle tubing and pumpkin itself look as if they're in decent shape but here are my concerns:

1. The backing plates are bent up (either from getting dragged around in the salvage yard OR (but hopefully not) from a rear hit or roll over.

2. The calipers are missing entirely.

3. The rotors are pretty rusty.

4. The axle tubing may or may not be bent (due to a possible roll, dragging, rear-hit, etc.)

5. The brake lines and ?breather hose? are pretty chewed up.

I just pried the backing plates straight and removed the diff cover. The axles spin fine-- there is some sand in the pass. side tube. Where is the C-clip on the 8.8 so I can back the axle out and inspect it? What's the best way to clean out the inside of the diff? I don't want to pull all the gears and screw something up and be force to pay more money to reinstall the same gears. Also, the axle is supposed to have a trak-lok yet both axles spin in the same direction when I spin them. That's not normal is it? I know that the 8.8 has no carrier break so I'm a bit confused as to what to look for inside the pumpkin itself.

1. Is there anything that I should inspect particularly closely to ensure that the axle is in solid working condition?
2. Besides free spinning the axles is there any other test that I could perform to figure out if the tubing and housing are bent?
3. Anything else that I should be aware of when inspecting the axle?


I've read all the previous posts concerning the 8.8s but would like to address my concerns specifically about my application.

Thanks for the help,
Warren

------------------
94 4.0 YJ
2" Rusty's AALs, 1 1/4" JKS BL, 32-11.50 BFG MTs, Gibson cat-back, CB, hi-lift & assorted recovery stuff... and a Ford 8.8 waiting to be installed
"Mediocre driving makes any trail (sidewalks included) a challenge!"


94 YJ 4.0
32s, typical "stuff" and an 8.8 waiting to be installed
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-30-2000, 10:41 PM
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Re: Ford 8.8- Attn H8MONDAY, et al.

as far as all the stuff that is either missing or bent, the only thing to really be concened about is the housing and the shafts. they are the heart and soal of your 8.8 and everything else can be obtained fairly easily. you said the shafts turned freely well when you turn the shafts pay close attn to the flanges on both axle shafts and watch them as you spin it to make sure that they run true and are not warped. you said the backing plates were bent. well i personally recomend scrapping the backing plates (dust shields) on disc brakes because they hold mud in them if and when you get into it. i run front and rear discs and i don't run them on either. calipers are no problem except that you might need a core when you go to purchase new ones. the rotors should be turned before you get it all going and install the new brakes. the 8.8 is not a c-clip axle so you don't need to remove one to remove a shaft. just undo the bolts at the ends of the housings to remove the shaft. they don't like to come out easily so they mught take a few love taps from the ol' hammer. brake lines and breather hoses are bothe easily obtained from your local parts store. i hope i have answered your Q's and have been of some help.

brian wilson
80 cj5 "high 5"
stretched to 100" wb
efi351w/np435/d300/d44/d60/detroits/4.56/35tsl's/
post #3 of (permalink) Old 10-01-2000, 01:55 AM
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Re: Ford 8.8- Attn H8MONDAY, et al.

Thanks High5. The axle is not in as bad of shape as I feared. I thought the same thing about the backing plate and will probably just ditch it as you suggested. However, I'm 99% certain that the 8.8 is a c-clip. I'm a bit leery of just pulling things out of the gears because I fear I might screw something up. I think I'm going to try to just clean up the rotor to try to reuse it. I'll probably end up purchasing all new brake lines and just buying new calipers as well.

Thanks for the input,
Warren

94 YJ 4.0
32s, typical "stuff" and an 8.8 waiting to be installed
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 10-01-2000, 08:31 AM
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Re: Ford 8.8- Attn H8MONDAY, et al.

i was under the impression that the 8.8 was not a c-clip axle but i could be wrong. h8monday can be of better help with that. if it is a c-clip you should be able to see the clip when you have the diff cover removed. when you find it knock it off the end of the shaft.

brian wilson
80 cj5 "high 5"
stretched to 100" wb
efi351w/np435/d300/d44/d60/detroits/4.56/35tsl's/
post #5 of (permalink) Old 10-01-2000, 10:15 AM
 
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Re: Ford 8.8- Attn H8MONDAY, et al.

if yoru rotors dont really need turned, but just cleaned up, run some old brake pads on them for a week, then get new pads, they will clean the rust just fine!



OzarkJeep

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 10-01-2000, 12:36 PM
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Re: Ford 8.8- Attn H8MONDAY, et al.

Ozark-- That's a good idea. I'm going to sand the superficial rust off then do that.

Okay, I got the pass side axle shaft out by removing the c-clip but the driver's side flange seems to be rusted or somehow otherwise attached to the rotor. I've banged the hack out of it, placed a nut on a wheel stud, banged that inward while forcing the rotor outward, etc. I can't pull the c-clip out because there is not enough lenght in the axle to afford me enough room to push the shaft inward enough to pull the clip.
Grrr... Any suggestions as to how to get that dang rotor off the flange?

Thanks,
Warren

94 YJ 4.0
32s, typical "stuff" and an 8.8 waiting to be installed
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