A seal was leaking so installed a new axle bearing and seals, but now having trouble re-installing the axle. The bearing doesn't appear to go in far enough now. How do you know if the axle has gone in completely? My manual is vague on this issue. Any ideas out there?

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i believe axle bearings need to be pressed in. No?

[b]Boston Mangler
CJ7 With A Bunch Of Goodies
See It At:
http://ct-web.unh.edu/yankeetoys/kspeicher/

i think i have been to this movie.is the other side tire on ground?if so jack it up and then the axle you are installing will slide all the way in.i think what is happening is the other side slide on the bearing race inwards and the the axle you are installing will not go in all the way.try it.

'78 cj-5....if it's 2 loud you're 2 old!!

Did you get the bearing pressed on all the way? The inner race has to be pushed up to the shoulder on the axle. You would need access to a 5 or 10 ton press to do this. If not the axle will stick out and you won't be able to bolt up the flange seal to the axle flange. If you have any more details or a pic send them, that would help.

Steve M
1976 CJ-7, 304, TH400, Q-Trac, 4:10's, 33x12.5 Goodyear MT's, rotten floorboards, cheesy aluminum tub overlay, you get the idea....

"Heavy guns - Reach out and touch someone"

Thanks guys. I had the bearing pressed on by a shop. At first I questioned if it was put on all the way, but it is exactly where I remembered it was. What is happening is that the bearing will not go all the way in the cup of the axle. It goes in enough so that it will turn the driveshaft, but not sure that it is all the way in because the bearing sticks out. So I will try lifting the other wheel off the ground and see what that does (good idea). Thanks for the responses and ideas. I will get back if any more problems. I wish I had a digital camera (I know a picture is worth a thousand words).
chase m.

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Okay. I've tried my best at it. I worked on it with both rear tires up and in neutral. The bearing did go in another 1/8th of an inch, but still not far enough. I've been pounding and wiggling at the bugger so right now it is flush with with the axle's edge and needs to go in another 1/4" so that the outer seal will fit. What can I do to get it in further??
Any help is appreciated.


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You did remove the old inner oil seal before putting the new one in ...right.
are you sure the new inner oil seal is seated all the way.and the new bearing is pressed on with the small end towards the hub side .the only thing I can think of that would hold the bearing out too far is the inner oil seal.
Is it a trac-lok rear end,If it is ,the manual cautions about turning one shaft while the other is out...to tell look at the rear of the axel pumpkin on the passenger side just where the axel tube enters the flange there will be a axel ratio ID codeon the pumpkin boss just to the right of the dowel hole " N or Y "is trac-lok "X or A " is standard
The manual also cautions against using a Slide hammer type of tool to remove the hub,all it says is it could damage the bearings ,axel shaft ,or differential thrust block.
Did you check the new and old bearing to be sure they are the same width ?
this info is out of a 1980 T.S.M. hope it helps,

Ray
Learn to let go of what does not serve you ,but forces you to serve it
why does everyone ask if I am gonna paint it ?

I got the basic "d" 2.73 ratio open AMC 20. I checked the width thing and there should be enough room for the bearing in the end cup. Tomorrow I make sure that the inner seal is all the way in, but I was pretty sure that it was in right as I put my fingers inside to feel where it met the groove. The seals are the right ones, but not certain on the bearing because I had a shop do it.
I pulled the axle with a car jack, but have been pounding on it with a hammer to put it on. Thanks for the suggestions and info. I think I will just take apart the diff cover and see what is going on and maybe I will have her back on the road in a few months (at the rate I'm going).


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