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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-26-2000, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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calling all ignition guru\'s

ok.. here is the deal.. i have a stock 401, stock coil, stock distr., ignition module.. its wired correctly according to haynes...
ignition mod white wire to lt blue to the light blue on the starter soleniod which is coming from the ignition switch
red wire to red with black line to pos side of coil
green wire to neg side of coil.. others are connected to distr.
the resistance wire i have is just a wire with a ballist resister inline with..
have tried all 3 settings..
i am not getting any spark out of the coil.. have power to the pos side and engine turns over..
coil.. is new.. and have the old one.. new ignition mod.. new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor..
Why dont i have any spark.. need this to run.. yesterday..

hope this makes some sense..

jeepgod

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-26-2000, 10:35 PM
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Re: calling all ignition guru\'s

First you need to check the pick up coil(hall effect swicht),if you have a ohmmeter,check for continuity at the two wires going to moudle,if not a test light will work,ground one end,put the other on the neg. side of the coil,have someone crank engine,if it flashes,you have signal and a good hall effect.with all you replaced this is probably to one.
hope this helps
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-27-2000, 01:22 PM
 
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Re: calling all ignition guru\'s

Matt, I think you are getting ahead of yourself.
We don't even know what year the ignition is from...
Or what year Jeep it's going into...

I'm sure that once he posts what year it's from/ to we can get it running in short order.
--------------------------------

If it's the Motorcraft distributor, and the DuraSpark ignition module, He has the White wire connected to cranking power, and it should be connected to the ignition switch 'Run' power.
That 'Run' power wire should connect to his module White power, then go into the resistor wire to the positive side of the coil.
---------------------------------

The Red wire should be connected to the Starter solenoid 'I' terminal, to the positive side of the ignition coil, and then to the Red wire from the module.
---------------------------------

The way he described it, he will not power the module and the coil at the same time.
Could be why he doesn't have spark.
It could also be something as simple as the engine ground isn't doing it's thing, or the module isn't getting ground through the distributor.
----------------------------------

Maybe this simplified diagram will help find the bugs...


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post #4 of (permalink) Old 09-27-2000, 04:43 PM
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Re: calling all ignition guru\'s

sorry teamrush.. was alittle peeved last night.. since i am behind schedule..

the coil, distru. are stock 1978 amc 401...

new ignition mod for amc v8...

problem is i have no resistance wire.. i have that ballast resistor.. and i think i have found the resistance wire out of the wagoneer 78 wire hareness..
question is how important is that resistance.. i dont have my book for the wagoneer so i dont know what it should be.. i believe i looked up the 80 cj v8 and its like 35 ohms.. i believe.. its from memory.. since the jeep and book are at infantryyj's home..
the ballast resistor has 3 different settings.. once again from memory.. 9 ohms, 18 ohms, and 23 ohms.. i believe..

the wire harness that i am using is from my 84 cj 6 cylinder.. but i had a points ignition in it.. with the ballast resistor.. im thinking i can find the wagoneer wire and splice that into my harness.. ???

i also measured the distru... and the reading was high.. but it says at operating temp.. this has yet to fire.. and when it was last used it ran.. but i know that doesnt mean squat when it comes to electronics..

i hope this clears this up alittle.. once again sorry for the vague info..


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post #5 of (permalink) Old 09-27-2000, 06:22 PM
 
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Re: calling all ignition guru\'s

It's 1.35 Ohms you are looking for, not 35 Ohms!!

The resistor is something you must have if the coil you are using doesn't produce at least 0.80 Ohm hot (running temp).
You are looking for around 1.35 to 2.50 Ohms total with both the resistor and the ignition coil.
--------------------------------

Use the wiring diagram I posted, and that should clear things up.
The source line is what ever 18 Ga. wire you can find that has a full 12 volts, that is on when the key is in the 'RUN' position, and off when it's not.
The jumper from the starter solenoid will give power to both the module and the coil when you are cranking.

You may just have to start from scratch and rewire. It's not as bad as it looks if you take it one wire at a time, and get the right colored wire to start with.

You can also use that diagram to build a test harness to see if all your components are working correctly.
--------------------------------

The guy before you wasn't any better with ignitions, he had points back in a Jeep that came with an electronic ignition!!
What could he have been thinking!!!

Good luck, and let me know if you need anything else.

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 09-27-2000, 08:17 PM
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Re: calling all ignition guru\'s

thanks team rush..
those diagrams in those books are kinda hard to read.. i was looking for 35 ohms.. mmmm.. so with that coil i will need around 2 ohms.. well i found the resistance wire from the wire harness for that motor and ignition.. atleast i think its that wire.. its a single wire.. and i measured the resistance of that and its like 18 ohms or something.. but i wired that into my harness.. and wired it according to your diagram.. nada.. no spark coming from the coil..
i have like 8 volts at the pos and neg post of the coil when you are turning it over.. im thinking just the coil is bad.. but i tried a new one last night.. mmmm.. maybe i just got a bad one from the auto store..

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 09-27-2000, 09:56 PM
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Re: calling all ignition guru\'s

Jeepgod,

Did you say you have 8v on both sides of the coil while cranking? The negative side should be lower cranking as it alternates between open and ground. Check the orange and violet (pickup coil) for resistance. Don't have the numbers handy, but WAG about 500 ohms. You can also check the pickup coil voltage with the engine turning over. It should produce a small voltage. Something like .2 or .3 volts AC.
Also check the module, used to work, turn the key on and hold the coil wire close to ground. Turn the key off. It should produce one spark. Also, the stock connectors don't age well, they sometimes have too much resistance in them.

Good luck,
CJeep

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 09-28-2000, 06:36 AM
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Re: calling all ignition guru\'s

yes the voltage does drop when you turn it over.. and the last thing i did was that pickup check.. it was way high.. 8k ohms.. but it said at operating temp.. and since i havent had this running yet i wasnt sure how much that played into effect.. but since i am not getting spark out of the coil.. i also havent looked that hard at the dist. ...

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 09-28-2000, 12:03 PM
 
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Re: calling all ignition guru\'s

Well, the coil is a '78 vintage, I'd trade it in on a E-core (TFI style) for about $15 and get it over with....
------------------------------

1. Make a test plug.
Take a spark plug, wrap a 12 Ga. stripped wire around the threads, and connect the other end of the wire to a known good ground.

2. Check the coil wire.
Use your multi-meter to test the coil wire for opens or excessively high resistance.
If it checks out, connect the coil wire to the coil, and the test plug.

3. Test the coil.
Unplug and ground the Negative side (Green wire side) of the Ignition Coil.
Touch a 12v hot wire to the Positive side (Red wire side) of the Ignition Coil.
Just touch it real fast, on and off, .... on and off....
You should get a single spark at the test plug nearly every time the positive wire breaks contact.

OR...
Take the coil and module to the nearest auto parts store and get them tested...
New coil is under $15, and the module isn't much more, under $20 around here....

My guess is you have a wiring problem. Build a test harness with the 12 supply from the battery.
Use the diagram I posted, and get your source from the battery with a toggle switch, and use 1/4" male and female spade terminals for the connections...
I bet it fires right up.... And then you can trouble shoot your problem backwards to the key switch...
You can run it a little while with out the resistor, but don't make a habit of it.


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