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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-12-2000, 02:54 PM
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401 CJ drivers/Axles . . .

What rear are you using? How has it held up?
I have both an AMC Model 20 (2.72) w/ M/E one piece axles installed and a replacement rear 1980 Scout II Dana 44 (Trak Loc 3.73)I originally planned to use for the better gearing (after I replaced the clutches). The 401 with the Edelbrock package and a 727 trani gets installed the weekend of Oct 28. Will the Dana 44 hold up to the 401 using 33" tires (and maybe a locker) or should I just save up for a Dana 60 rather than break parts.

Intended use for the truck is 50/50 off-raod/on road: logging trails (PA), some rock crawling (PA), NJ mud, trips to snowy areas (Poconos/East Durham NY - Irish Catskills)and VA beach use.
Thanks for your suggestions in advance.
-Drew M.

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-12-2000, 03:04 PM
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Re: 401 CJ drivers . . .

the 44 should hold up just fine as long as you don't use the go-go pedal like an on-off switch.

brian wilson
80 cj5 "high 5"
stretched to 100" wb
post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-12-2000, 03:05 PM
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Thanks Brian. No txt.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 09-12-2000, 05:38 PM
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Re: 401 CJ drivers . . .

Pretty much what Brian said. I think a D 44 is a lateral trade for a model 20 with one piece axles. I am sure there are arguments either way. But the real problem is the front.After adding a Holley Pro-Jection to my 401 I am really in a bad (good) way with HP and torque.I flattened a ring & pinion and a front u-joint all in one stab of the throttle. I am spending sleepless nights trying to figure out what front end to go with, then what to do in the rear.
Seems as though the options are endless, as long as the pockets are deep enough.
Elusive, Chris has a lot of very good ideas and is very well versed in the swap process. You might want to drop him a line.
I think I am swaying towards a currie 9" front, but that is just my opinion for the day. It is liable to change in the next few minutes.

Our kind government is being kind enough to allow me to pay my quarterly taxes Friday, and that was my front end right out the window, and into Mr. Clinton's vacation money. We gotta have him see the world before he leaves the office ya' know...Let me know if I can be any help, Ricky...seeya...

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 09-12-2000, 06:48 PM
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Re: 401 CJ drivers . . .

this really is a tough call... i have been thinking a lot about it lately, and here are a few things that come to mind
dana 60
never ever ever breaks(i have seen 1 broken front 60 axleshaft)
good selection of gears/lockers
most come with 4.10 gears
initial cost(usually about $1500!!!)
cost of new bearings, seals, u-joints($100)
cost of locker($500)
it's toooo long..cost to shorten..at least $100 if you do everything yourself
steering requires fabrication($???)
too big, hangs down pretty far,hangs up with anything smaller than at least 35's
hope you like 8 lug rims
you are now approaching the cost of a currie high pinion 9" front axle
so..I'll compare them as best I can
good quality from a company that will be around when you need them
high pinion design reduces driveshaft angle
can get any bolt pattern you want
OH MY $$$$$$$$
i have seen a few 9" pinions break where the yolk bolts to it(right at the splines) although I haven't heard many others say this
custom axles mean you are screwed if something pops in the middle of nowhere
the dana 60 is still stronger
this is a tough one.... I don't see many people breaking their front dana 44's...so I'll give my opinion on then too
$$$$a waggie 44 is under $200
you may not even have to cut it down
they usually have 4.10 gears
they are common as hydrogen
they have + caster built in
i havent seen them break with under 38" tires
give good ground clearance
you can afford spare axleshafts to carry along
6 lug pattern(can be converted cheaply)
may have to be cut down(depends on the rear axle)
steering is no fun at all to fabricate and the correct way will cost more than the axle
they are spring under(not always bad)
stil need new bearings, locker, cut a side down, eyc.. this all costs the same as a 60.
the reason you don't see more dana 60 front axles in jeeps is a combination of these things...most folks run under 38's on a jeep, so there is no need for a 60. i don't care if you have a top fuel engine in your jeep, i only break stuff rockcrawling, and then your only putting a very smal amount of power to the axles. I think you have to beef the drivetrain more when you start adding gears/lockers.. these put a lot more stress on components than engine torque

tj-7..tellico tested, uwharrie safaried, [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]..see it at http://www.jeepgod.net
oh yeah, and a 2000 tj, 4.0, dana 44, nv3550
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 09-12-2000, 06:50 PM
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Re: 401 CJ drivers . . .

either rear end should hold up.. i would keep the amc 20 with one piece shafts if its already in it... has a larger r&p than the d44.. and youve cured the weak spot....
the front is the question... it will hold up.. until you get some traction in the front.. ie. locker.. rock crawling.. stupid pedal on pavement in 4 wheel drive.. and that front end wont hold up.. garrenteeed!!!
i will be testing out a d44 from a wagoneer.. and a d60 rear both with detriots for my 401.. contact me after the dixie run.. ill let you know how they hold up..

<font color=orange>survival is instinct, but living takes guts</font color=orange>

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 09-12-2000, 10:55 PM
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Re: 401 CJ drivers . . .

I havn't broke my D44 rearend yet, but I do fear that I will. My 401 has enough horsepower to twist the rear drive shaft In half on some sand dunes, and this is a very short driveshaft, only about 5 inches of tube. It was made useing a stock rear scout driveshaft, so it should have been plenty strong. I am easy on parts, but if you are a throttle jockey, you should probably look into a D60 rear.

Thanks Ray

post #8 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2000, 06:28 AM
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Re: 401 CJ drivers . . .

i also believe if you are thinking up changing out your axle.. to consider axles!
it would be cheaper in the long run to get the front and rear from the same vehicle.. ie.. 3/4 ton truck.. wagoneer.. that way they are the same width.. wouldnt have to cut them down.. same bolt pattern.. you may need new rims.. same gears.. so even if they are crappy ones.. you could still drive them for awhile until you had the cash for gears..

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2000, 08:09 AM
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Front axle issue


Maybe you should call me instead for your rears. I can save you $$.

8 lug F250 (3/4ton) Dana 60 (full floating w/ brake drums)? Got $250. Costs to modify for your CJ by Currie handled by you)are as follows:
1. Narrow housing to CJ width of your choice $65.00
2. replace housing bearing caps(ends) w/ semi floating bearing caps $70
3. Custom 5x5.5 CJ axles $295 w/ new bearings installed $380
Thus, for under $1000 you can have a bolt in CJ Dana 60 w/ minimal gears of 3.73 but most likely 4.11.

Need a Wagoneer or Scout II front Dana 44 w/ a pass side diff. $150 (2.72-3.54 gears) Most come w/ rotors and brake calipers too. Sorry, no Wag flat top knuckles left. BTW: A set of Chevy Dana 44 flat top knuckles (w/ dr. having factory high steering arm studs) that you can swap onto the Wag Dana 44 and use the Dr. side as a model for machining the pass side will cost you $ 80.00.

Scout II rear Dana 44 w/ single piece axles (3.07/3.54)? $125.

I'm in East PA but I do ship parts.

I'm narrowing a Wag Dana 44 for the CJ at this moment. If all goes well, I may make up a few this Winter w/ 58" wheel spacing for about $700 each - narrowed housing, OEM gears & carrier, correct length and spline axles,new U-jts, and new ball jts installed. Time and space to do the work are the only limiting factors.

That's about it. Email me off the BBS if interested.
-Drew M.
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