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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-11-2000, 02:27 PM
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Axle problem

Well, I have figured out my clicking problem(I think). It only clicks on the passenger side when I AM TURNING. Therefor, I think it is an axle u-joint, not the superwinch hub. Here is my dilemna. I have that waggie front 44 sitting here in my yard. While I am tearing (i.e. breaking) things apart to replace the u-joint, is there anything on the 44 I can use on my D30? I think I heard somewhere you could use the outer knuckles,bigger brakes,joints,etc. Can I use the tie rods and steering box also?? I need some edumukation(education in alabama). Please help me. My boss,er..wife says if I spend all this damn unexpected money my rollcage and locker is bye,bye. Sorry for rambling, I am dejected and have been drinking heavily. Thanks, Chad

1985 CJ-7 258/TR upgrade/4"superlift/2" bodylift 33x12.50 BFG mt/Ramsey Platinum 9000,Tomkin tire combo,etc,etc.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-11-2000, 03:21 PM
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Re: Axle problem

Chad, relax buddy.. easy fix.. take the entire knuckle out of the dana 44, and put everything into the dana 30.. the steering won't fit unless you cut it down though. look at jeepgods page for a write up on how to convert to the correct bolt pattern(cheap). better make sure everything will clare(like springs)..hmmm the tie rods are larger on the waggie... gunna have to cut it down.....

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-11-2000, 04:57 PM
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Re: Axle problem

the knuckles and maybe the calipers and caliper brakets are all that can be swapped on to you dana30 and still retain the 5on 5 1/2 bolt pattern. your better swapping all or nothing.

brian wilson
80 cj5 "high 5"
stretched to 100" wb
351w/np435/d300/d44/d60/detroits/4.56/35ss/bdlocks
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 09-11-2000, 05:33 PM
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Re: Axle problem

O.K. Any suggestions aside from swapping in the whole 44 front end? If I just replace the joint, is there a bigger or stonger one out there? What I am getting at is while I am in there, why not do some cheap (keyword being cheap) upgrading. If no one has figured it out yet, I am no axle expert. I know alittle about a lot. But, dammit, Im learning. So, anyway, there is a u joint on each side, right? 4wd hardware only shows one for the driverside. I am pulling my hair out. Now, time to go down to the Winn Dixie for another 12 pack....... Thanks for the responses and help. Chad

1985 CJ-7 258/TR upgrade/4"superlift/2" bodylift 33x12.50 BFG mt/Ramsey Platinum 9000,Tomkin tire combo,etc,etc.
post #5 of (permalink) Old 09-11-2000, 05:54 PM
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Re: Axle problem

you will need 2 u-joints. 1 for each side and they are the same p/n. i like either spicer or new alloy joints myself. you should clean and inspect your wheel bearings while you are in there too. any parts store should have the joints you need in stock so don't worry about that. do you have a manual? if not they can be a good learning tool and life saver while you are learning your way around your jeep.

brian wilson
80 cj5 "high 5"
stretched to 100" wb
351w/np435/d300/d44/d60/detroits/4.56/35ss/bdlocks
post #6 of (permalink) Old 09-11-2000, 06:31 PM
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Re: Axle problem

Chad, do yourself a favor and spend a few extra $$$ and get the Spicer U-Joints. They are a little more, but compare them vs a Brute Force and you will see the difference. I just replaced my front joints today and am awaiting my ring and pinion gear. I really wasted my front end last weekend in Tenn. I will also be changing axles in the next few months also. We are going to tellico Oct 13, so I gotta be easy one last time... good luck with wrenchin'...seeya...

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 09-11-2000, 08:07 PM
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Re: Axle problem

Hey Ricky. Glad things are coming together for you. I take it you did frag your front diff. in Tn. Sorry about that. Well, I told you I screwed up my superwinch hub up there. Now I think it is an axle u-joint. It clicks mainly when the wheel turns. Does this sound right?? I was hoping it was the hub because of the warranty. Damn the luck!! Can I pick up the Spicers from Napa? Since I am in there already I would like to fix it the right way. I had planned on swapping in Warn axles until I got sticker shock! I think it will hold up fine w/ my 33's and 258. Any way thanks to everyone for your help. I am waiting for a long lost uncle to die so I can call Dynatrac. Thanks, Chad

1985 CJ-7 258/TR upgrade/4"superlift/2" bodylift 33x12.50 BFG mt/Ramsey Platinum 9000,Tomkin tire combo,etc,etc.
post #8 of (permalink) Old 09-11-2000, 09:58 PM
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Re: Axle problem

csvaugh, does it click just when the hubs are locked in? just in 4x4? or does it do it in 2wd too?

brian wilson
80 cj5 "high 5"
stretched to 100" wb
351w/np435/d300/d44/d60/detroits/4.56/35ss/bdlocks
post #9 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2000, 07:31 PM
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Re: Axle problem

Brian, sorry for the delay but, I have been working a lot. Thanks for responding. It clicks in 2wd. I have aslo noticed it mainly does it when the wheel is turned and moving forward(ofcourse). If I was a betting man I would say axle u-joint. But, I wanted to be sure. I was also trying to decide how I could upgrade the problem a little. I believe in the motto "the sound of breakage is the chance to upgrade". Thanks, again. Chad

1985 CJ-7 258/TR upgrade/4"superlift/2" bodylift 33x12.50 BFG mt/Ramsey Platinum 9000,Tomkin tire combo,etc,etc.
post #10 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2000, 07:39 PM
 
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Re: Axle problem

Steering U-Joints are relatively Cheap and easy to replace. If you get the ones that have the grease zerk sticking out of an end cap, it is easier to get grease into. If you just greased your current U-joints the clicking might go away also. Have you drivin in any hub-deep water lately? Water will wash away most greases quickly- so when you put new stuff in go with White Lithium grease. I did a lot of 4-wheeling with the driveline underwater and that is all I would use- the breakage stopped after using this stuff too. ('cept for the tranny of course)

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