Okay,
I have used paint remover to get my steel doors down to the steel. What should I use for the metal prep? I have heard Loctite Extend is the way to go, spray that stuff on according to the directions and you will not see rust? What are peoples results with that? Any suggestions?

hi dmoraski.use muratic acid,rinse well,dry with towel or air.prime and paint.for extend to work you must have rust for the chemical reaction to take place.regardless ,if you use extend you still must prime and paint.hope this helps ranger rick

THANK GOD FOR VETERANS AND SUZUKIS-BOTH KEEP YOU FREE. FOUNDER;INDIANA SUZUKI EMERGENCY RESPONSE TEAM

Any auto paint supply store will have a metal prep, designed just for that. I don't know what kind of acid it is, but it is an acid, so use protection. It etches the metal so the primer will have something to bite on. A fool proof way is to use the metal prep ( follow the direction ), and then use an etching or epoxy primer. Both adhere very good to bare metal, Then to get it very straight use a filling primer, and block it out. When you think you got it straight, block it again. Then again this is a Jeep, if you make it to pretty, you probably wouldn't wheel it, so etch it, epoxy or self etching primer, and paint it. Better yet, just leave it in primer.

Thanks, Ray

What about POR15? I have been pondering this same thing. From their ads and website it sounds perfect for metal prep. Has anyone ever used this product?

1. Make sure that there is no rust on the metal
2. Clean the metal with prep sol, or thinner, or xylol.
3. prime it with a good quality primer such as Variprime(2part epoxy primer)
4. paint it with a good quality paint such as, Dupont Imron or centuron. Or if you want to make it pretty, use dupont chromabase, and chromaclear.
5.prep is the most important part!
6. the above paints are MUCH MUCH more durable than anything you spray from a can!

Tom

Where can I find these paints? Also, how long can I leave it in an epoxy based primer? I know the cheap stuff absorbs water and you have to seal it right away, but unless my plastics degree fails me, Epoxy does not absorb water.

You will have to find a auto paint supply store. NAPA carries Marten Senoir (same as Sherwin Williams ). and Carquest carries PPG. I know many restorers that use PPG DP90 black epoxy primer as the finish coat on firewalls, and underhood components. It's suposed to match the OEM finish better than any thing else they have found. I am sure it is very durable, and dosn't absorb moisture. It is also available in white, gray-green, gray, and red oxide. I am sure there are a lot of places that have automotive paint, just let your fingers do the walking.

Thanks, Ray

There's an auto body supply place on New York St. a few blocks east of Farnsworth.
Is variprime even still on the market? My buddy gave me a bunch of stuff out of his paint cabinet last summer including a can of variprime and I rmemeber him saying that something was no longer available due to EPA regs...thought it was the variprime.

I must warn you all about use of POR 15. I think it may be good in some cases but not in many others. The chasis coat is UV sensative and if used anywhere that light hits directly, it will degrade quickly. Also, some of their products dry to a very hard and virtually indestructable coating......right. The harder it sets up, the more unlikely it is to stay on the frame when the steel flexes. That's right, it will pop right off if the metal flexes too much. I've heard that Naval jelly (love the name) works well for dissolving the rusty stuff.

Just a clarification here. The standard POR-15 is UV sensitive and must be top-coated if it will be exposed to sunlight. The *chassiscoat* is another product in the line-up which is intended as a top-coat and is *not* UV sensitive. Also, it was my understanding that POR-15 will change colors if exposed, not degrade. Where did you hear that it would degrade?