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Jeep-Short Wheelbase All discussion of short wheelbase Jeeps: CJ, TJ, YJ and JK

 
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-03-2000, 07:49 PM
joeybcdt
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Parts Wagoneer

My CJ7 is an '84 w/ a very high-performing AMC 302 (345 now), AMC 20, T150, Dana 20, Dana 30. I'm a little concerned about the differentials. I just spotted an old Wagoneer in my father-in-law's field. Don't know the year. All I do know is it has an auto tranny, the front drive shaft is missing, and I didn't feel like rolling around in the tall grass to see what else is missing. It had some kind of sign in the dash stating something about Quadratrac full-time 4wd, check owner's manual, bla, bla....Both 6-lug axles are there. Would these axles fit my jeep? Are they worth the trouble? Is there any other reason why I should want this Jeep? I could probably get it for next to nothin.

Thanks,
Joey

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-03-2000, 09:19 PM
**DONOTDELETE**
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Re: Parts Wagoneer

If you peer through the grass at the rear axle you will see one very important detail. The rear diff. is set extremely far to the passenger side. If you were to use this for parts, you would have to also use the transfer case, which means you would also need the transmission because adapters aren't available for your transmission (I believe). Now, I don't know for sure, but I think that all AMC autos will fit all AMC engines.

The front axle, though, is fair game.

I would also be worried about diffs with any kind of built '8.

Ed


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post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-03-2000, 10:00 PM
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Re: Parts Wagoneer

Some stuff from personal experience in parting out one of these.

The engine might also be worth salvaging. It is either an AMC 360 or 401 might even be a 401. It most likely has this setup: the GM TH400 tranny, the BW 1305 or 1339 (no low range) Quadratrac transfer case, and Dana 44's front and rear. The front axle is a good donor for a widetrac D44 swap at almost 60" wheel mount to wheel mount as well as having disk brakes. There are a couple of concerns with this axle however - first the spring mounts cannot be moved in due to the differential, so you will have to fab spring hangers on the outboard portion of the frame. Not too hard to do, but it will cut down the articulation slightly. Second, it has vacuum actuated hubs, so you will have to replace them with manual hubs. Search jeepgod's posts for a great write-up on his questions about using a Ford/Chevy setup for a lowcost replacement. The rear axle - like the last poster said - is offset quite a bit to the passenger side. This would be great if you had an offset rear output shaft on your transfer case - but you don't, and there are better donors to get a D44 rear axle from.

Parting it out, you may get $25 - $150 on the tranny/t-case if it is in really great condition, but unless you want a Sno-Jeep like CJDave is doing - I wouldn't mess with it. If the motor is in good shape, you have a perfect donor for an engine rebuild/upgrade that will be bolt in once you are finished with it. Since you have a strong running engine now, you can rebuild it slowly to TR's specs and have one heck of an engine. Outside of that, there are a few misc. parts here and there that are cool to take off. If the chrome is spotless on the bumpers, I can get $200 for the set here. I sold a rusty set off mine for $100. If the grille is in great shape - you can sell that for a shiney penny too. Keep the engine components for core trade-ins as they are all identical to what is on yours right now with the exception of the alternator - which is just a higher amperage. It is nice to have the core to turn in immediately without taking off of your vehicle first.

Well, enough rambling. If the body is in good shape - restore the whole thing. Those FSJ's are a really cool tow vehicle IMHO.



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