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Jeep-Short Wheelbase All discussion of short wheelbase Jeeps: CJ, TJ, YJ and JK

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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-02-2000, 01:13 AM Thread Starter
 
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? for TeamRush

Hi Aaron, Would you please tell me if the wiring diagram you posted for in2deep, would work on my 88YJ 258?
Thank you, Jim.

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-02-2000, 01:45 AM
 
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Re: ? for TeamRush

Yes it will, but it will defeat the emissions equipment.
That was posted as a TEST harness.
That wiring diagram is just to test the wiring to see if the problem lies there or in the ignition hardware....

If you need a permanent harness, let me know, and I'll post it here.

"I Have The Body Of A God... Buddha"
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-02-2000, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: ? for TeamRush

Yes please post diagram. I am having a problem a little different from in2deep, my YJ spark comes and goes, it runs fine for a few minutes then stops in few minutes it will start up again. When it has no spark I have 10 to 12 volts at coil + side. I have cleaned the ground cable and check wires all over it. I put on two new coils, new distributor and ignition module, did not help. Had Jeep for two and half years and it was always dependable till a few months ago when it began stopping once in a while and got worse and worse. The ignition is stock except for a bypass job someone did before I got it. If you have any ideas I would greatly appreaciate them and the diagram.
Thanks Jim

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 09-02-2000, 11:04 AM
 
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Re: ? for TeamRush

Here is the diagram.

This diagram will effectively kill the air bypass, so you will not be emissions legal.
(Effectively the 'Nutter' bypass)

If you need to say emissions legal, let me know and I'll work in the control module for the air valve.
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File Type: jpg 9-204810-PermanentIgnitionHarness3.jpg (37.1 KB, 2 views)
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 09-02-2000, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: ? for TeamRush

Thanks TR, I am going out to my shop and turn the fans on me and see what I can get done with the new information. I read your replies to other Jeepers and have learned much from them.
Thanks again, Jim

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 09-02-2000, 07:07 PM
 
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Re: ? for TeamRush

I had one do this before, I had a crack in the resistor and when it heated up, the crack spread and lost power

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 09-02-2000, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: ? for TeamRush

Brownbagg, thanks for your reply I will give it a look see tomorrow after church. The only thing is, when the ignition is on, I always read voltage to coil + side (10-12 volts).
Also just as the starter is disengaged, I can always see spark from the coil center wire, if I am checking for it.
Thanks for the help, I will check it out, Jim.


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post #8 of (permalink) Old 09-02-2000, 09:12 PM
 
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Re: ? for TeamRush

Sounds like you may have a bad ignition switch.

"I Have The Body Of A God... Buddha"
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 09-02-2000, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: ? for TeamRush

Hi TR, I had thought of the ignition switch, but I always had power at coil, so I never looked at the switch. I did put on a temp. jumper from battery + to coil + side and still there was no spark from coil. I have little experience with igniton problems, because my Dad was a fleet mechanic, he was so good I was spoiled. But if you think it could be the switch I'll look there. Is there a way to test the switch without removing it? Thanks Jim.

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 09-03-2000, 10:11 AM
 
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Re: ? for TeamRush

*The only thing is, when the ignition is on, I always read voltage to coil + side (10-12 volts).*

That is normal. the coil gets power anytime the ignition switch is in the "RUN" position, and when the engine is cranking.
---------------------------------

*Also just as the starter is disengaged, I can always see spark from the coil center wire, if I am checking for it.*

Just as you let off the starter, the start circuit opens, and the coil discharges, just like it's supposed to.
----------------------------------

Sounds like the coil is fine.
Check the module, or take the module to an Auto-Jerks and have it tested.
(just because they say it's good/ bad, doesn't mean it's so... they are often wrong)
Have the coil tested too.
---------------------------------

Go to the parts store and buy an electronic ignition test plug. It's looks like a gapless spark plug with an 'alligator' clip welded to the side of it. Usually around $5 if they have them.

If they don't, strip about four inches of 12 or 14 Ga. wire, and wrap it around the threads of a regular spark plug real tight. Put an 'alligator' clip on the other end of about 18" or more, of wire.

Clip it to a VERIFIABLE ground, like the battery negative terminal.

Hook the test plug up to the coil wire, and place it where you can see it while the engine is cranking.
This is a must when working with electronic ignitions, Other wise, you are wasting time.
---------------------------------

Do you have a factory tach?
The factory tach is a source of problems in vehicle ignitions.
---------------------------------

1. Disconnect all connectors to the distributor. Clean both sides of them thoroughly, they are probably a mess.

2. Disconnect all connectors to the module. Clean both sides of them thoroughly, they are probably a mess too.

3. Check the coil connector. It doesn't get as bad as the module plugs, but I've seen them be the cause of the problem.

4. While the factory connectors are loose, this is a good time to make the test harness, and install it.
Use about 12 or 14 Ga. wire, and pay special attention to where the wires connect if you are using all the same color wire. If you get something crossed up, it's a bear to find with all the same color wire...!!
You can use 1/4" male and female spade terminals for most of it.
I recommend using the insulated ones if you can find them, so they don't short out on each other.

Crank it over and see if it runs. If it does, it's the wiring harness or connections somewhere,
If it doesn't run, it's probably hardware failure.

SEE ATTACHED for test harness diagram.

"I Have The Body Of A God... Buddha"
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