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post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-30-2000, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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DRM...Hose routing question??

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] I would sure like to know where those heater-sized hoses on your 360 go? What the previous owner has done may be just exactly what we have been advocating on the AMC V8 family of engines to inprove cooling AND heater efficiency. Please respond.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-30-2000, 01:51 PM
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Re: DRM...Hose routing question??

I will be home in a couple of hours, I will be sure to snap plenty of pics of the engine bay and post them to my site for you to view from every angle (and with a 3" body lift and hacked fenders, that is not a tough thing to do [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img])

I do have doubts however that anything could have been done "right" on this Jeep though - it seems to be a poster child for how to do things wrong, backwards, and cheap [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img] (Please note that "cheap" is not bad by itself, but when combined with "backwards" and "wrong" you have a recipe for disaster!)

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 08-30-2000, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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Re: DRM...Hose routing question??

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Sometimes people can succeed by "accident"[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img].......you just never know. Thanks, I'll be real interested in seeing what the scoop is. You see, I have long been of the belief;....shared by others on this very BBS....that the AMC V8 family is "over-bypassed", and for that reason they run too hot at low RPM. My idea was to run the heater circuit from the thermostat housing and have THAT as the one-and-only by-pass to throttle the water down somewhat. What piqued my intrest, however, was that your 360 has TWO sets of heater hoses coming off the engine. I could do that as well, since we have TWO heaters, but there again it gets back to having the engine with too many by-passes, and not enough cooling flow to the radiator. This should be interesting.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] Oh.....can you post a picture like those on the other thread, ......right under the name....for some reason I can't click on and get anything that is down in the body of the post???? One good photo should do the trick. Thanks again.....CJD

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 08-30-2000, 05:15 PM
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Re: DRM...Hose routing question??

Maybe you can explain what they did (if you can't see the pics, you can check out the addresses [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]):


http://www.tennessee4x4.com/toyota/i...0-hoses-01.jpg


http://www.tennessee4x4.com/toyota/i...0-hoses-03.jpg

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 08-30-2000, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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Re: DRM...Hose routing question??

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Good Photos DRM![img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img] I can see perfectly. What the previous owner did here was make the thermostat housing by-pass the heater loop, and then he routed the original heater loop back to the engine water pump.. He is HALF RIGHT.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] I sincerely believe that the heater needs to be plumbed exactly that way, and then just ELIMINATE the original heater loop, OR if you just like extra hoses,[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] use a VERY small hose or a restrictor in the normal size hose so it is just mainly a way to get the water temperature a bit more even during warmup. In fact, I would recommend a restrictor washer in the NEW heater loop down to about 1/2" diameter. It's ABOUT TIME somebody wised up and did this much needed modification. The AMC engineer must have just returned from a two-martini lunch when he drew a water pump with TWO HUGE PORTS that take water right back to the engine, even with the thermostat open and crying for cooling! As a college and industry-trained water science engineer, as SOON as I saw that pump off the engine, I knew it was wrong. TR had the very same impression. Does this seem clear to everyone? Just remember this...the ten kazillion small block Chevys out there have NO by-pass, and here we have these AMC's with one that you can SWIM through.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 08-30-2000, 06:41 PM
 
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Re: DRM...Hose routing question??

Dave,
Any suggestions for plugging the original heater loop port?
I have to re-plumb the heater hoses anyway since that hose melted on one of my headers. In order to get it off I have to remove half the brackets from the front of the engine because I have a york on there.
I'm thinking of just cutting the hose fairly short and putting a brass pipe plug in there. Then re-routing the heater off of the bypass as shown in the pictures. This would save me half an afternoon of disassembling and reassembling.

'79 CJ-7
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 08-30-2000, 06:45 PM
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Re: DRM...Hose routing question??

Dave, I'm sure you didn't quite mean it like you said.
Minor 'nit-pick'....... The 'ten kazallion' SB chevys, ALL HAVE A BYPASS. Check it out. IMO, not a good idea to try 'no-bypass'. It's a little like 'dead-headin' a pump. On most Chevy SB's, the bypass is built into the water-pump ports. It's the 'extra' hole that you find on the gaskets. There are a few SB chevys, where this bypass hole is blocked. And, that is what the 'pin' is for, in the box with a new pump. These models are trucks, which have a separate bypass circuit, through a hose (molded, heater-type, very short).
I agree with the rest of your post, and see no reason why the 360 bypass shouldn't be restricted. Or, a heater circuit, WITHOUT A heater temp-control SHUTOFF VALVE, could be used for the bypass. The factory could not do it this way, because it is not 'idiot-proof'. If the heater core fails, and someone eliminates the heater circuit, a bypass is still needed. No reason why it can't be 'restricted', even if the heater circuit serves as the bypass. I believe the Chevy bypass hole is about 3/8-inch.

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 08-30-2000, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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Re: DRM...Hose routing question??

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Yep, you're exactly right.....the big problem with those SB chevys with the "internal" by pass was always the lack of a steam hole in the thermostat, and the warmup temp fluctuations were real nerve-wracking to watch. In my opinion, the by-pass to the pump was always too low to really be good at "purging" the engine on fill-up OR on warm-up. If you are going to eliminate the heater hose loop, DO go with the brass plug and short hose arrangement, NOT a rubber cap from off the display rack in the auto parts. Those rubber caps fail too easy. I'm fairly certain the flow restriction through the heater will help a lot toward the low RPM cooling thing, but you might also want to add a restrictor washer. You can get genuine restrictor washers from Summit, OR...you can reach in your junk drawer and get one.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] This by-pass modification should ALWAYS BE USED WITH a "drilled" thermostat....NO EXCEPTIONS![img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]

CJDave
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