Give Me the Low-Down On "Super 35" - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-29-2000, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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Give Me the Low-Down On \"Super 35\"

Yes, I appoligize for asking again, but, Can anyone give me the lowdown on the super 35 rear ends being sold out of California with a Detroit in them? A jeeper friend who blew up his 35 in his 89 YJ is looking at purchasing one of them. I have told him "NO", go with an 8.8 out of an explorer. cheaper, stronger, and much more reliable. But I don't know anything about the "Super" 35 being offered. Any experiences.

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-29-2000, 10:27 AM
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Re: Give Me the Low-Down On \"Super 35\"

Your advice with the 8.8 was the best advice. The super 35 kit from all who I have talked to is much stronger. But not compared to the 8.8 axle. The 35 kit still has the weak axle housing that tends to bend under age and wear. Putting in the lockright or detroit, stronger axleshafts, will help, but if your D35 axle housing is slightly bent or becomes bent (big tires, rock crawling,etc), then the lockers will not function properly and cause many problems. They are working on a truss for that axle housing, but I dont' think it's available yet. If you find a place that has the 8.8 axles at a good price let me know. I've been looking. The cheapest I've found one so far is at a local junkyard, they wanted $700 for the 8.8, would give me $350 for my D35. It had 3.73 gears, posi, disc brakes. so I'd still have to spend @$200 for the 4.11 gears I need, and around 400-$500 for a locker (detroit). So $350 for the axle, plus $700 for gears/locker, It would end up costing over a thousand dollars. But I would have the upgrade to disc brakes. Versus the super 35 kit which is around $900-$1000 for the kit with the detroit. (I think). And no upgrade to disc brakes, and still the worry about the axle housing, and still weaker than a 8.8.

John
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 08-29-2000, 11:03 AM
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Re: Give Me the Low-Down On \"Super 35\"

I've done both the super 35 kit and an axle swap to dana 44s, and I think it all depends on how big tires you are going to run, what kind of terrain you are running them on, how heavy your right foot is, how much technical knowledge you have access to (ie: can you do an axle swap yourself, or would you have to pay someone to do it?), etc etc.

If you're going to rock crawl with larger tires, then I think you are much better off with an axle swap, but if you wheel once a month in varied terrain this might be the ticket for you.

You can see more at my web site:

http://www.chadlloyd.rockcrawler.com/Jeep.html

bottom line is if you have the resources to do an axle swap, do it, if you don't, then this does make a reasonable compromise alternative solution, in my opinion.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 08-29-2000, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Give Me the Low-Down On \"Super 35\"

This is actually being driven by my friends grandson, 16-17 yrs old, and with a VERY VERY heavy foot on a strong rebuilt engine. He is running 31" and does quite a bit fo 4wheeling (3-4 times a week when it is running.) It has not run since he grenaded the rearend a month ago.

What does a Super 35 consist of?

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 08-30-2000, 07:51 AM
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Re: Give Me the Low-Down On \"Super 35\"

In my opinion, then, your friends grandson needs a bigger rear end. I'm saying this because if he is blowing the stocker with no locker and 31s, his right foot is going to be way too heavy for the 35c with a locker, even with the bigger axle shafts.... and especially after he gets bigger tires (everyone always does). Just my 2c.

The super 35 kit is best for someone who is in the situation I was in when I got mine - not sure if you're gonna go far in the 4 wheeling thing, want a little more performance, but want to be able to back out of it if you decide you want to, also using the kit as prevention against breakage that might happen rather than a cure for breakage that is happening. When I got mine I wasn't having problems with my 30s, and got it to forestall any problems when I moved to 33s and a locker. If your friend's son gets this, the locker may negate any additional strength the axles give (lockers are naturally harder on axle shafts than open diffs) if he's that heavy with the right foot.

He may even be too rough for a D44 if he goes too big in tire size. That's the other reason I'd recommend against it - if he's wheeling that much then he's gonna want to go big sooner or later. This kit it best for people not going more than 33 X 12.5 and with a light right foot, in my opinion. Sounds like a big limitation, but probably actually describes 95% of the people out there.

The kit consists of 30 spline (D44 size) axle shafts, new wheel bearings, and either a modified stock diff case with a lock rite locker (cheaper) or a detroit locker (more expensive). It installs quite easily if you are not changing gear ratios.

After installing the kit the rear end is still weaker than the D44 in the Ring and Pinion, and also the axle is infamous for bending the axle tubes, so you might want to truss the axle.

The qualities of the 35c is always a hotly debated subject - some say it's fine (look at Curt's Revolver rig in the ARCA Rock Crawling championship - trussed 35c with a detroit super 35 kit) in modified form, MOST say it is breakage waiting to happen. You kinda have to decide for yourself, but personally if the right foot is that heavy I'd go for something bigger.

Swap candidates: 8.8 (you know about), XJ D44 (hard to find), Waggie D44 (post '86 - different bolt pattern), scout D44 (different bolt pattern), custom (expensive)...... personally I think either the 8.8 or the XJ D44 make the easiest swaps, if you can find either one.

All of this is just my opinion.

Chad

post #6 of (permalink) Old 08-30-2000, 09:01 AM
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Re: Give Me the Low-Down On \"Super 35\"

As many of you guys know...I test out products for folks since I have access to some destructive lab equipment (60 ton press/ tensioner, etc) and I did some testing on the Super 35 kit in 1998. The 35 kit is only available for the C-clip rear end. All Dana 35's in YJ's are 35c's which stands for custom not c-clip. The 35 in an 89 YJ is a semi floater style so a clip style will have to be found which is easy. I sourced one for my 88 YJ out of a 95 with low mileage for $150.

The kit is available two ways: with a Detroit locker or a lock rite in a specially hardened carrier. I tested the lock rite version because there was no Detroit available then. The kit comes with 30 spline axle shafts that are forged as one piece and have roled splines - the best way to make 'em. The bearings are torrington style aircraft bearings that are pretty tough. The kit has a 5 year warranty - which ain't bad. Superior Axle and Gear recommends an axle truss for setups with larger than 33" tires - I recommend one anyway. The lock rite kit use to sell in the $750 range and a good truss like Con Fer's goes for $70 and $100 with a skid plate attached. I have wheeled some goods trails with 34" tires since 1998 with a hopped up 4 cyl (don't laugh) and now a Vortec V6 and have had no problems. I drive everyday with 33" tires on the Jeep and have put almost 30k miles on the rear end.

Nothing wrong with an 8.8 it is only marginally stronger...aftermarket parts make it a lot stronger. The 8.8 is somewhat like the old 9 inch (I said old like in older versions) that used larger parts and lesser build quality and strength.

IMHO



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