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post #1 of (permalink) Old 01-03-2000, 11:54 AM
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Need some cam info

Howdy. I am lookin got get a cam for my 304. I have founs three different ones from summit all with differt lift and durations. I am looking for the low end torque, but play in the mud a good bit too

in. dur. ex.dur. in. lift ex. lift
1 214 224 .472 .496
2 224 234 .496 .521
3 204 214 .448 .472

I assume that each different grind will produce a different hp and torque curve. any idea which one i should go with?

66 CJ-6A Tuxedo Park
78 CJ-5 Levi's
93 YJ Jamboree Edition
96 XJ 2WD (grocery getter)
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 01-03-2000, 12:48 PM
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Re: Need some cam info

Grab a stock cam for an AMC 401 for $130. It WILL fit and, to slightly misquote Jim Allen in his amazing book "Jeep 4x4: Performance guide" it will turn your 304 into "a gutless wonder with the idle of a top fueler."

EVERY JEEPER SHOULD OWN JIM ALLENS BOOK! I found my copy at a Books-a-Million. It has helped me to understand the "total Jeep" concept in another level entirely!

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 01-03-2000, 06:59 PM
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Re: Need some cam info

Cam 1 will give you a powerband of around 1750-4500 RPM, and should have a pretty good idle.

Cam 2 will give you a powerband of around 2000-5000 RPM, you may have trouble getting it to idle well below 900 rpm or so.

Cam 3 will provide good power from idle-3500 RPM, idle quality will be very good, usable down to around 500 rpm with proper tuning.

Generally I would recommend a Cam similar to #3 for 4wd vehicles, but I break my own rules from time to time. Cam #1 will provide good low end torque but give a little more midrange than # 3. Cam #2 is a good midrange cam, might suffer a little at the low end but not too bad. I'm putting a Cam similar to #2 (told ya I break my own rules) in the small block Chevy that I'm building for my CJ-5, but my fat bore (4.155") and the flow capacity of my heads should mellow it out a little more than your 304 will.

"My other car is a BULLDOZER"
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 01-03-2000, 11:36 PM
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Re: Need some cam info

Why would you want to "turn the 304 into a gutless wonder at low revs and give it an idle lope like a top fueler". You may want to read this a little more carefully because this would be a BAD THING. He actually doesn't say this about the stock 401 cam either. He is talking about aftermarket cam selection . He's saying that what may be good for the 401 isn't necessarily good for the 304. You really should read that section again because there are some good rules of thumb in there. I don't know the stock cam profile for the 401 (or the 304 for that matter) but I wouldn't recommend them without knowing what they are. I do know that with it's low C.R. and relatively small bore, combined with it's less than stellar flow characteristics the 304 tends to fall on it's face when treated to long duration. Hope I didn't come off like an a$$hole, just trying to help.

"My other car is a BULLDOZER"
post #5 of (permalink) Old 01-04-2000, 09:53 AM
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Re: Need some cam info

You might try calling American Performance in Florida. I have spoken with them about choosing a cam for my 304. They have a lot of experience building amc motors and have probably tried all the cams you are looking at. They'll probably want to know exactly what your drivetrain consists of, like gear ratios, trans, aftermarket equipment on the motor and what type of driving you will do. If you do call them post back here what they had to say. I was originally going to use a Competition Cam(for sale now if someone wants) but after talking to them I have decided to take a closer look at cam options that are available. If you have the specs for the stock 401 cam I'd like to see them.

post #6 of (permalink) Old 01-05-2000, 02:31 AM
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Re: Need some cam info

I make a REALLY good living fixing ink stained peoples' vehicles.
They all make the same five mistakes,
1. Believe ANYTHING they read in magazines.
2. Buy too big of carburetors.
3. Buy too big of Cams.
4. Buy too big of headers.
5. Listen to anyone at a 'speed' shop.

1. Out of the many magazines our little bunch has been in, we never once told the truth. Nobody does. That's why they are called entertainment. No one wants to hear that most of every 'Cool' street machine is 99.5% (or more) factory parts. That is especially true if the ride is streetable. Besides, magazines make their livings selling this stuff... think about that.
2. Listen to Holley, not the speed shop. They tell the truth 99% of the time.
That huge open plenum, single plane intake manifold isn't doing you any good either. (It sure looks cool...)
3. Cams. High lift, long duration, and big overlap may sound great, but you will pay. No vacuum to work that giant carb (not to mention power brakes, vacuum advance, ect.), no idle, no power in the normal operating range of your vehicle, and to make any power, you have to rev right to the edge of destruction (or beyond) of your otherwise stock parts... (and you thought it was expensive before...)
4. Big headers compound all of the carb, intake and cam problems, and make the custom exhaust shop guy smile.
5. 'Speed' shops are there to sell parts, and clerks are not experts in anything but sales.
If they don't have at least 500 hours on a dyno, they are hacks & will say anything to get the sale. They should be flipping burgers at the local burger doodle.
If anyone can't verify the results of their claims with a dyno pass, tell them to get lost.

Call Vic Edelbrock, tell them what you want to use the vehicle for, and see if they make a matched carb-intake-cam & lifter set, and take their recommendation on header tube size and design.

Happy Jeepin' Folks. Aaron.

So many cats, so few recipes...
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