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post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2000, 01:07 AM
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Team Rush or Other electrical pros, HELP PLEASE!

Ok here's the problem. I put in a freshly rebuilt 258 and stripped the emissions. At the same time I did the "nutter bypass." Now, I had all the wiring out and I yanked the computer, and to tell you the truth with the amount of work I did, im suprised my jeep actually runs! But there is a minor flaw. Everything gets constant power now. My heater, wipers, stereo, reverse lights, everything stays on with the key off and out! I know my ignition switch is fine, but Im pretty sure the problem lies somewhere with the ignition wire when I did the bypass. Any wisdom would be much appreciated!!! Thank you in advance!!

1987 YJ Laredo/3" Body/30X9.5" All Terrains/Rebuilt 258/BA 10/5
Rylan D.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2000, 10:45 AM
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Re: Team Rush or Other electrical pros, HELP PLEASE!

You may have shorted a Batt+ wire to the "Ignition On" portiton of your fuse block also so that is one of the first things I'd check for.
Somewhere you have bypassed the "Ignition On" portion of your ignition switch
and instead wired across the switch creation a shorter, direct path to a Batt+ wire.
If your YJ still has a GM style connector, attached is a diagram of the column connector. The color codes should be close or identicle. It might help.
Good LUCK!

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2000, 11:11 AM
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Re: Team Rush or Other electrical pros, HELP PLEASE!

Jaffer, you took the words right out of my mouth.

It could also be back feeding through a misplaced ignition coil wire, or a misadjusted ignition switch.

The ignition coil wire will back feed the accessory block.
The ignition switch will feed the accessory block if it's misadjusted and making contact with the accessory circuit.

Is the ignition active with everything else?
It almost can't be ignition back feed, or the engine wouldn't shut off....

Also, if the resistor/ diode wire to the alternator were replaced with a regular wire, that would back feed the accessory block too.

Take the negative battery cable off the battery, and put a digital volt meter inline between the two.
Start disconnecting things until the reading drops to zero.
That will be the offending circuit.

I'd try 'wiggling' the ignition switch to see what happens first, rule out the easiest fix first...

You are in for real 'fun' finding the problem...

"I Have The Body Of A God... Buddha"
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