Re: Brakes overhaul. Any special tools???
*I will have to replace both drums and rotors.*
If it's just the brake drum you are going to replace, and just the brake rotors, then you will need a few things....
FIRST OFF, BREATHING PROTECTION.
AT LEAST A DUST MASK. Brake dust is a known carcinogen, and it's been proven that even small amounts of brake dust can cause "white lung" and "black lung" depending on what the brake material is made of.
Dust mask, and work gloves are a great idea, along with a binding brake cleaner, (means the crap stays wet and doesn't fly around), so you can catch the cleaning tailings for proper disposal.
If your drums are really hard to get off, you will need a drum puller.
They are at the tool rental places very reasonably, and some of the stores like Auto Zone will loan the tools to you.
Make sure the brake bleeder screws will break loose before you proceed with the rebuild.
If they won't, you may have to replace a caliper or wheel cylinder, or at least rebuild one.
(usually, if the bleeders won't come loose, the lines won't either...)
You will need a bearing driver of some sort to put 'Races' (the tapered part of wheel bearings) in your new rotors.
If you buy the made in Mexico rotors, take out the races that are pressed into them (junk), and install some known brand name races... (like Tempkin)
Don't forget to buy new wheel bearings, and seals, and a really good wheel bearing grease
Mobile One, and Valvoline both make a synthetic grease that is just wonderful.
Remember, when you are assembling the hubs, where grease is, water and rust won't be.
No such thing as too much grease in the hubs.
Don't forget to grease the lip on the new seal before you try to install the rotor.
Old bearings and seals can stay in the rotors, sense you NEVER REUSE WHEEL BEARINGS WITH NEW ROTORS OR RACES.
Replacing disk brake pads is a snap, but remember to lube the bolt threads, and the area where the caliper moves (slide grooves or pins).
So don't forget the seize!
Replace anything that looks worn or broken...
Remember to take apart the adjuster on the drum brakes, clean it good, and replace the star wheel if it doesn't have pretty good teeth edges on it.
Remember which way it came out, that is VERY important to get it back in correctly.
(about half of all brake jobs are done incorrectly)
Lube it up real good with seize before you put it back in the system.
Seals can be driven in with a hardwood block cut to fit over the seal.
I recommend using a seal driver if at all possible.
Races can be pressed with the proper installing tool, or tapped in with a BRASS drift if you are very careful.
Never use steel to drive in a race, it will ruin the bearings.
There are nifty hard plastic drivers on the market for cheap, and they work GREAT...
(do a pretty good job on 'freeze' plugs too!)
YOU WILL NEED AN ACCURATE TORQUE WRENCH FOR THE SPINDLE NUTS AND LUG NUTS.
There is no debate on this, no room for error, you must use a torque wrench, especially on new, unseasoned drums and rotors.
Otherwise, you run a good chance of warping them right out of the box.
Don't go out and just heat the snot out of new drums/ rotors either.
You will over heat and warp drums and rotors, and glaze brand new brake material real quick that way.
Take a nice, slow 30 minute drive somewhere you don't have to jam the brakes on to wear them in.
Only do one side at a time. If you don't remember where something goes back to, you can run around to the other side and check it out.
More than half the brake jobs are done incorrectly... Don't be one of those guys.
Worn out adjusters, adjusters in backwards, calipers & wheel cylinders that should have been rebuilt, master cylinders that should have been rebuilt, rotors and drums that should have been replaced, worn out brake lines not replaced, ect...
"I Have The Body Of A God... Buddha"