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Jeep-Short Wheelbase All discussion of short wheelbase Jeeps: CJ, TJ, YJ and JK

 
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-26-1999, 12:12 AM
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Jeep questions

I'm new to CJ-7s (Until recently I was a Samurai owner, but I got tired of the underpoweredness of them.). So, here's what I've found: 1985 CJ-7 inline 6 w/ auto tranny. 35" tires. Crappy 5" shackle lift (The first thing that I'll get rid of!). Decent frame and body and stock hardtop and doors (BIG +). Possible dying rear end (I didn't notice any problems but the owner said it's going [psychic?].) and a stock "dying" carb (Some yokel messed with the hoses and the current owner just fiddled with the fuel mixture to compensate the problems). Also, someone down the road kinda trashed this puppy. Nothing specific enough to define but she's beginning to look a little tired. The price is only $1,000.00 Not bad for an entry level CJ. Can anyone give me some areas of concern and rough estimate on what a used stock axle would cost to replace?

Any appreciation would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Pauly

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-26-1999, 12:27 AM
 
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Re: Jeep questions

Check back on the 22nd or 23rd for a delco alternator upgrade article. It will answer your questions.
If it doesn't, contact me directly, and I will try to help.

TeamRush1-AT-excite.com Remove the -AT- and replace with @ before trying to e-mail.
Do we have spam-bots on this BBS? I havn't heard of any yet...

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 12-26-1999, 09:06 AM
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Re: Jeep questions

Your profile doesn't tell us where you live. In salt country an area of concern is the tub, of course, especially around the rear wheel wells. A more expensive thing, time and dollars, is to replace is the frame. On my CJ's I have found rust holes in front of the rear leave spring mounts. But for $1000.00 just about any CJ is a great deal. At that price, even with a bad frame, and if all the other components are good, it's still a good deal. If you don't want it, and the Jeep is located in Minnesota, e-mail me, I'll buy it! Regarding the rear axle, keep it, if there's nothing wrong with the housing. You may have to spend a couple hundred bucks to get new bearings and ring/pinion. You're a lot of money ahead already. There's a lot of people that monitor this BBS that have tremendous amounts of experience. Perhaps they'll respond to your questions too.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 12-26-1999, 11:30 AM
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Re: Jeep questions

Just check ebay prices for the hardtop and doors. That price sounds to me like that's what you are
buying and getting th rest of the Jeep thrown in for free.

Check the inside of the frame for rust, that's where it's the thinest. Check the hard doors for rust at the
bottom. About anything else can be fixed pretty cheap. Don't leave without it or somebody else will
grab it up.


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post #5 of (permalink) Old 12-26-1999, 11:54 AM
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Re: Jeep questions

Hey Pauly,

You seem to be in the same boat i was in a couple months ago. Here is what i have done (partially) and this is my .02 on what you should do.

I'm new to CJ-7s
***** I am too, isnt it fun, lol

1985 CJ-7 inline 6 w/ auto tranny. 35" tires
***** Awesome beginning, Bad tranny. I am doing a T-18a swap now. It was a bitch finding one but it is highly recommended by all the Jeepers.

Crappy 5" shackle lift (The first thing that I'll get rid of!)
***** That sounds scary. 5" Overall shackle lift??? Junk that and go for a 4" Superlift

Decent frame and body
***** THat alone is worth $1000

Stock hardtop and doors (BIG )
***** I am Jealous

Possible dying rear end (I didn't notice any problems but the owner said it's going [psychic?]
***** Going, meaning a bearing or something small, or a ring and pinion???

and a stock "dying" carb (Some yokel messed with the hoses and the current owner just fiddled with the fuel mixture to compensate the problems)
****** Trash that immediately and get a Weber 32/36mm. They are great on gas and great on the rocks in tippy times. Not a big HP monster though. ONly $350 /-

Also, someone down the road kinda trashed this puppy. Nothing specific enough to define but she's beginning to look a little tired.
***** All CJ's look a bit tired. Looks arent anything. LOL

The price is only $1,000.00 Not bad for an entry level CJ. Can anyone give me some areas of concern and rough estimate on what a used stock axle would cost to replace?
***** if you are looking to replace the stock axle with the same thing. You will be in luck. A lot of people that do serious wheeling HATE the AMC20 and will be selling the WHOLE thing CHEAP. BTW, what is the vehicle going to be used for??

Of Course This Is Just My .02

Good Luck With Your New Toy



Kevin Speicher
New England 4x4 Club
http://146.189.121.83/
79 Jeep CJ-7
post #6 of (permalink) Old 12-26-1999, 01:17 PM
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Re: Jeep questions

Pauly,
Congradulations on your GREAT find.....I have an 84 that will be almost identical except for the tranny....Now, the low down on what you have..

First, you have to decide on what you want to do with the jeep. Is it a daily driver with only ocasionaly off roading, or vice versa? If its a daily driver then you may want to consider going to smaller tires. In most cases 35's are more for look than function...It sounds like the kid you bought it from just wanted to look "bitchin" and didn't go off road.

Shackel Lift....you are right about wanting to get rid of it...I bet the jeep is all over the road...However, with 35's you will need to keep at least 4" or more for clearance. Something to consider is the fact that anything over 3" using springs is going to make the ride a lot stiffer. A Spring Over Axle (SOA) will give you about 5" and you get to keep your stock springs for a softer ride. (5" Shackel lift?...if the shackels are 5" long then you only have a 2.5" lift...to get a 5" lift the shackels would have to be over 10" long and your susp geometry would be all screwed up).

Engine...before you start yanking hoses and the carb...find out where your real problem is. You must also take into account if your state requires emissions testing. If you replace the carb with a webber you will fail the visual inspection. I have the Carter BBD and the HEI mod and I will gladly take on any I6 out there with a Webber....A properly set up Carter with the HEI dist runs VERY well. Go back on the old posts and read all the posts on the HEI mod. There is also a good aritcle on the 258 emissons controls...it doesn't take much to get them working.

Axle...Don't belive everything you hear bad about the AMC 20. Its only real weak link is the 2 piece axle. Put 1 piece solid axles in (about $300) and it is as strong as the Dana 44. The AMC20 has a large R&P. The other part that concerns me is that you have 35" tires...and if you are running stock gears, either 3.31 or 3.73 then you are putting way to much stress on the axle and tranny. Either go to smaller tires or put in lower gears...at least 4.10....or do both. 4.10 gears with 33" tires is a good combo....and a lot better behaved on the road. FYI, you have the Dana 300 transfer case which is one of the best to have.

Bottom line....you got a great deal...without seeing it, its hard say what all is wrong. Read as many of the old posts as you can...a lot of them pertain to you. About the only limitations will be your pocket book.

Good Luck and don't be afraid to ask questions...


John......southern CA
84CJ7,3"lift,32"BFG,4.11's,ARB,Solid Axle's
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