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post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-11-2012, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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Carter BBD won't run out of high idle

Hi All,
It has been a few years, been building a house, having kids, etc. so I unfortunately let my Jeep sit and decompose. Last summer I decided to get my 83 CJ7 back on the road. Last time it drove on the road was 2006. I fired it up last summer and it ran decent, it actually idled fairly well. To make a long story short, I got a new frame, cleaned it up, swapped the drive-train and body over, new brakes, fuel lines, etc, and a year later, just had the opportunity to start it up again. I cannot get it to idle. I start it, and it runs in high idle, but as soon as I kick it down (once it is, or should be, warm enough), It immediately dies.

Background: 258 with a BBD. has no smog/emissions stuff. I think it must be an older model BBD, as it doesn't have the stepper motor, etc. 1978 intake manifold. Team Rush ignition upgrade. Have 2 vacuum lines connected to the evap canister, one to the vac advance on the distributor, one to the PCV, and one to the choke. the others are plugged, as can be seen in the picture.

It used to run like a top, but something is obviously cracked, dried out, or gummed up. Presently, it runs better with the choke plate partially closed, even when hot. That means it is set lean, right? With these symptoms, where should I start looking? Where should the idle mixture screws be set? I have them 4 turn out from all the way in right now. I don't really want to invest too much time or $ in this carb, as I have a MC2100 I plan to rebuild and put on in the future, but I just wanna get out and drive the Jeep as it has been so long and my 2 kids might want to go for a ride more than me! The MC 2100 will not be ready for a few months.
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Justin
'83 CJ7. 258 w/TR ignition. T5/D300. Dana 35/AMC 20 3.54 gears w/ Moser 1 pce axles. 3" suspension, 1" body. Fiberglass tub.
http://www.geocities.ws/jeepboyjus/
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-12-2012, 05:54 AM
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Good to see you back! You probably have a vacuum leak. Hoses are easy to check. Take them all off and plug the ports at the carb and intake manifold. If that doesn't do it the problem is a gasket or a blocked passage in the carb. You can use RRich's propane trick to look for leaks around the gaskets. Here's a link:https://forums.off-road.com/jeep-shor...inal-post.html

If that's not the problem something is gummed up in the carb. You can try some Sea Foam in the tank. Last resort - get a kit and rebuild the carb.

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 08-12-2012, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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thanks Jim,
Do you know if the evaporation canister is a needed item? I don't have to pass emissions anymore, so if it isn't essential to make the vehicle run, i'd like to eliminate it. what is that yellow five sided thing on the top of the carb that has the fat rubber hose on it? it is attached to the evap canister. it has no suction on it, but it does make the engine race when i blow into it.

Justin
'83 CJ7. 258 w/TR ignition. T5/D300. Dana 35/AMC 20 3.54 gears w/ Moser 1 pce axles. 3" suspension, 1" body. Fiberglass tub.
http://www.geocities.ws/jeepboyjus/
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 08-12-2012, 11:10 AM
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If you park your jeep in a garage or shop, keep the canister. It doesn't hurt performance. Sounds like just a clogged passage in the carb. A rebuild kit is only about $20. Clean all the passages out and put in the new gaskets and it may run better than when you parked it.

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 08:16 AM
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What Will said about the evap system. The Boss gripes when I park my Jeep in the garage because of the gasoline smell, so I normally put it in the shop. I kind of like the smell.

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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I don't park it indoors, nor do I have a return line to the fuel tank, so there are no vapors to collect. I suppose it is not doing anything other than occupying space in the engine compartment. One hose goes to nothing - just hangs there, and the other 2 go to the Carb.

Justin
'83 CJ7. 258 w/TR ignition. T5/D300. Dana 35/AMC 20 3.54 gears w/ Moser 1 pce axles. 3" suspension, 1" body. Fiberglass tub.
http://www.geocities.ws/jeepboyjus/
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 01:32 PM
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The only potential problem is cracked hose causing a vacuum leak.

EVERYTHING's easy for the guy who doesn't have to do it.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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I solved it. I can't say for certain what it was, but I took the upper portion of the carb body off, and took the venturi and all the quick and easy parts out, poked all the orifices and openings with piano wire, and reassembled. Idles as well as it ever has. Good enough for a few months till I get the MC 2100 ready. Thanks for your suggestions. Glad to hear Jim Lou got his figured out too.

Justin
'83 CJ7. 258 w/TR ignition. T5/D300. Dana 35/AMC 20 3.54 gears w/ Moser 1 pce axles. 3" suspension, 1" body. Fiberglass tub.
http://www.geocities.ws/jeepboyjus/
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 08-14-2012, 09:00 AM
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Run some Seafoam gas treatment in a couple of tanks of gas. That should clean out the fuel system.....
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