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post #1 of (permalink) Old 06-07-2000, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
 
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Flat towing a jeep...

I need to know how to flat tow my jeep...I know the former owner did it a fair amount and there is a down bar and wiring for it already...I just need the specifics for the set up I have (Read my singnature for what i have)...From what I have seen I figure I have to put the case in nuetral, front hubs unlocked, and remove the rear drive shaft....Is there anything else???...What about the stearing wheel???...

Josh Lavalleur
'70 CJ5 4.3L V6
D27 & D44 axles
T-14 3-speed, D18 XC, Warn OD
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 06-07-2000, 10:46 PM
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Re: Flat towing a jeep...

Leave your steering unlocked, if it locks. It is not necessary to remove the rear driveshaft. Just make sure the TC is in neutral and not Low range. That will burn it up for sure.

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 06-07-2000, 11:05 PM
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Re: Flat towing a jeep...

If I am towing very far (over 50 miles or so) I usually remove the rear drive shaft. It only takes about 5 minutes. It just saves a lot of wear and tear on U-joints and bearings, especially on long trips. Also remember to take corners very large and slow when backing up. Backing with a tow bar is usually not recommended as it puts a lot of stress on the bar. I only do it very gradual and when absolutely necessary.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 06-08-2000, 08:47 AM
 
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Re: Flat towing a jeep...

The dana 18 and the Dana 20 oil from the tcase output shaft. Leave the tranny in 2nd and the tcase in neutral.
The only problem you may encounter with the steering is...
If the caster is not correct, it may not want to track very well. The CJ5 did not have very much caster to begin with.
Just hook it up and pull around the block. If it turns and then returns to straight, you should have no problem.

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 06-08-2000, 09:39 AM
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Re: Flat towing a jeep...

If you are removing the driveshaft and unlocking the hubs it doesn't matter what gear the transfer case or transmission is in. You have already isolated the drivetrain from what is happening on the road. If you leave the driveshaft in place, put the transfer case in neutral and the transmission in gear. The Dana 18 you have can safely be flat towed with the driveshaft in place. Leave the steering wheel unlocked provided you don't encounter any wandering of the Jeep.

post #6 of (permalink) Old 06-09-2000, 12:21 AM
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Re: Flat towing a jeep...

Why not put both the t-case and the tranny in neutral,that way if the t-case slips out of neutral, the engine won't be doing 10,000 rpm at 65mph down the road. Even so, I think removing the driveshafts would be the best bet.

Chris Allmond...89YJ/33"/2-3"lift: engine\tranny\rearend swap in future
post #7 of (permalink) Old 06-09-2000, 06:52 AM
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Re: Flat towing a jeep...

well i remove both shafts just for insurance[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

my owners manual says you can flat tow with shafts on by putting trans case in neutral and tranny in a forward gear.

after posting this question myself it was the consensus to drop shafts. this is a funny subject[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

with my vacuum controlled 4wd engage system, it is possible to put in neutral and still be in 4wd. i once dropped rear shaft only and wired it up. put trans in neutral and tranny in neutral. forgot to check if front shaft was turning. stopped after 50 miles. rear shaft had been spinning like a maddog! my wire job held fast but the u-joint caps and needle bearings took a fly. good thing i didn't lose the shaft.

anyway some say the trans case will take a dump because it will not lubricate itself properly when towing.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

good luck and drop both shafts if in doubt. wire both up. travel on![img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

steve

post #8 of (permalink) Old 06-09-2000, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Flat towing a jeep...

thanks for the advice guys...I think I have this one handled yet...

Josh Lavalleur
'70 CJ5 4.3L V6
D27 & D44 axles
T-14 3-speed, D18 XC, Warn OD
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 06-09-2000, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Flat towing a jeep...

thanks for the advice guys...

Josh Lavalleur
'70 CJ5 4.3L V6
D27 & D44 axles
T-14 3-speed, D18 XC, Warn OD
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 06-09-2000, 06:49 PM
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Re: Flat towing a jeep...

The various notes were interesting but the base facts vs personal preference are you major concerne. To quote an old saying "there's more than one way to skin a cat".
The reality is your drive train is being powered from the road drag instead of the engine. The system was not designed to work that way if it drives all the way to the engine. It is a big advantage in the world of manual transmissions because it is this reversal of the power train that allows us to push start a vehicle. That is impossible to do in an automatic. Up check for us.
The entire reason I just purchased my 87 Wrangler project vehicle was for towing behind my class A motor home due to its true neutral drive train capability. The transfer case, when placed in neutral as described in the owners manual, is a quick easy set up and it was designed for that. A thankful historic throwback from the war jeeps that were also towed frequently. They didn't have a lot of time to find a wrench and unbolt the u-joint let alone put it back together. The war usually doesn't come with a time out period. Being a firm believer in Murphy's law, I personaly prefer to leave the transmission in neutral as well. A good suggestion by one of the other commentaries.
You must remember that in towing flat, the differential will always turn and the miles will pile on but the odometer gets it's reading from the transmission. The "output" shaft of your transfer case will still spin from the drive shaft and of course the milage wear on that portion too will add up.
If you wish to spend the time, obviously disconnecting the drive shaft reduces the wear on all parts including the u-joints but not the diff, axles or tires. One response mentioned that the drive shaft was wearing out the wire it was hung from. You want to disconnect at the diff side, not the transfer case side. Make sure only the shaft flange is on the spinning side (at the diff) and no bearings are attached. This of course is time consuming. Advantages depend on the tow distance but I for one do not intend to mess with it.
In the RV world, a toad (clever RV groupy synonym for "towed vehicle") is so common and the expense of a trailer sometimes not prefered that there are companies specializing in towing equipment for automatic transmissions and I believe manuals as well. They include special drive shaft disconnects that can be actuated from inside the vehicle and remain permanently installed. You can imagine that an older couple does not prefer to crawl under the toad and mess with it. Look in the RV magazines and I know you'll find at least one. Try REMCO. They advertise as the towing experts and sell these devices. Their web site is www.remcotowing.com or you can call at 800-228-2481. They are operating out of Omaha, NE. I personaly have not used this product so I can't speak for it from experience.
Good luck with your choise. I hope I sheded a little more light on the subject for you.

Tread lightly and stop to smell the roses - Traveler
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